SA trigger Model 66 issues

[Pinski1015]

I just bought this model 66 no dash and the SA trigger is way too Light. I gave it the Push off test and it requires a medium amount of effort to get the hammer to drop.

I tore the revolver down and the Main and rebound springs appear to be the originals (no power rib and 17 coils) So my question is where do I go from here? I have yet to remove the Hammer and sear assembly and have heard that these may be worn or might have been ground down at some point for a trigger job? If so could this just need to be re-ground or might there not be enough material left?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[Hapworth]

Welcome to the forum, Pinski1015.

Interesting thread on working with the single action popped up recently; it's a good place to start reading:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...igger-pull-independently-da-trigger-pull.html

Don't forget to go easy on the push-off test; brief, gentle pressure is all that's called for or you can damage the sear and end up creating the condition you're checking for.

 

[Pinski1015]

Thanks for the response. Also the trigger is not serrated. Is that an indication that it's aftermarket? looked at the hammer and it looks like it's been jimmied with in the past on the trigger mating surfaces.

 

[Hapworth]

Thanks for the response. Also the trigger is not serrated. Is that an indication that it's aftermarket? looked at the hammer and it looks like it's been jimmied with in the past on the trigger mating surfaces.

When the no dashes were new, serrated was the norm, but we have members with 66s from that era they bought new with smooth triggers, so no guarantee either way.

What you're seeing on the mating surfaces might indicated work done, or possibly just normal burnishing. If it shoots properly and passes function tests like push-off, I wouldn't worry.

 

[Pinski1015]

When the no dashes were new, serrated was the norm, but we have members with 66s from that era they bought new with smooth triggers, so no guarantee either way.

What you're seeing on the mating surfaces might indicated work done, or possibly just normal burnishing. If it shoots properly and passes function tests like push-off, I wouldn't worry.

My concern is the SA trigger is way too light compared to other K frames and revolvers in general I've handled. It really is a hair trigger and I don't like the thought of shooting it like this.

 

[armorer951]

push off

"Sharpening" the bevel on the trigger is usually the answer, if the parts, including the associated springs and the strain screw have not been damaged by intervention of someone who doesn't know what he/she is doing. If you are able to remove the hammer/trigger from the gun, check the bevel on the trigger nad the cocking notch on the hammer for damage.
The repair process is a relatively simple one, but has to be done correctly with the right stone. I use the Norton 6" x 1/2"x1/2" square medium India stone that comes with the armorer's tools provided (sold) by S&W. You should never touch the cocking knotch on the hammer......if it's damaged or has been modified, you'll have to replace the hammer.
Check out the FAQ section at the top of the "smithing" page. It has some info on the process. If you can find an experienced S&W revolver armorer in your area, they should be able to repair it properly in a short time.

 

[Pinski1015]

"Sharpening" the bevel on the trigger is usually the answer, if the parts, including the associated springs and the strain screw have not been damaged by intervention of someone who doesn't know what he/she is doing. If you are able to remove the hammer/trigger from the gun, check the bevel on the trigger nad the cocking knotch on the hammer for damage.
The repair process is a relatively simple one, but has to be done correctly with the right stone. I use the Norton 6" x 1/2"x1/2" square medium India stone that comes with the armorer's tools provided (sold) by S&W. You should never touch the cocking knotch on the hammer......if it's damaged or has been modified, you'll have to replace the hammer.
Check out the FAQ section at the top of the "smithing" page. It has some info on the process. If you can find an experienced S&W revolver armorer in your area, they should be able to repair it properly in a short time.

Ordered a rebound spring, Main spring and strain screw today so we'll see what happens. Hopefully that fixes it