Safe ammo for a 27-2

Can anyone direct me to a correct size "hollow ground " screwdriver for the grip and side plate screws? Oh and the yoke screw. They may all be the same size screw head I'm not sure.

There are 4 different sized screw heads that a Smith revolver uses. You can find a set of bits at Brownell's or Numrich.
 
You'll also want to get a tool for loosening and tightening the ejector rod (remember too, that it's a left hand thread).
 
There are 4 different sized screw heads that a Smith revolver uses. You can find a set of bits at Brownell's or Numrich.

Do you know the sizes off the top of your head?
 
What's the best tool to use to clean the cylinder where the bullets are seated?

Brownells has brushes specifically for cleaning revolver chambers. They're slightly bigger and longer and do a great job on stubborn crud in the chambers. Brownells Chamber brushes
Use standard brushes for the bore.

As others have said, that big N-frame will handle any commercial ammo you care to put in it. ;)
 
You have received some great advice, but one item I don't see addressed is protecting the finish of the revolver. Since you intend to carry it holstered, just the rubbing of taking the revolver in and out of the holster will (over time) cause wear marks. If you put a coating of wax on the revolver it can help protect these surfaces. A highly recommended was is Renaissance Wax. It is a neutral ph and will not yellow. It was developed in England to protect the antique armor, guns, etc of the British Monarchy. Other waxes can be used, but watch for any possibility of yellowing. The wax will be partially removed whenever you clean the revolver with solvent, so you will need to replace it from time to time.

Enjoy your 27, the Cadillac of S&W's.
 
You have received some great advice, but one item I don't see addressed is protecting the finish of the revolver. Since you intend to carry it holstered, just the rubbing of taking the revolver in and out of the holster will (over time) cause wear marks. If you put a coating of wax on the revolver it can help protect these surfaces. A highly recommended was is Renaissance Wax. It is a neutral ph and will not yellow. It was developed in England to protect the antique armor, guns, etc of the British Monarchy. Other waxes can be used, but watch for any possibility of yellowing. The wax will be partially removed whenever you clean the revolver with solvent, so you will need to replace it from time to time.

Enjoy your 27, the Cadillac of S&W's.

Wow, thank you. I probably will only shoot this thing occasionally, but I really want it to be passed to my young sons in many years to come. If it sees a holster, it will only be at the range or while target shooting. I will definitely get the chamber bore brush and look into the wax.
 
Congrats OP, you've acquired the closest gun to a Registered Magnum that you can! The Model 27 is just not exceeded for fit, finish and quality of any S&W's in my humble opinion. Mine shoot any factory ammo but I like the 158 gr myself, and I don't reload.

I've got enough K Frame 38's so if the Magnums go out for exercise, they go with 357 ammo, and usually in a gun rug in a separate range bag.

My small stable of 357 magnums:

Pre Model 27, 6-1/2" shipped 10-16-1952
Model 27-2 Blue, 3-1/2" shipped 4-5-1977
Model 27-2 Nickle, 6" shipped 5-8-1980
Model 28, Satin Blue, 4" HP, shipped 10-13-1975

NOT PICTURED: My Registered Magnum, s/n, reg number, and ship date unknown cause even though 53 years of looking, drooling, close but no cigar... I can't find one I can afford.:D
 

Attachments

  • Pre 27 d.jpg
    Pre 27 d.jpg
    36.3 KB · Views: 37
  • M27-2 B full size.jpg
    M27-2 B full size.jpg
    51.6 KB · Views: 39
  • 27-2 N17.jpg
    27-2 N17.jpg
    65.4 KB · Views: 38
  • Model 28 - C1.jpg
    Model 28 - C1.jpg
    40.8 KB · Views: 41
The s&w can handle Cor-bon ammo? I'm reluctant to shoot full house loads from the s&w in 357?
I have never shot any. By reputation Cor-bon ammunition is all full throttle, with a full throttle price tag to match, but as long as it is within SAAMI specs, I would not hesitate to shoot it in any S&W N-Frame .357.

Cor-bon should also be safe in a K-Frame too but I don't think I would ever have any reason to try it.
 
Congrats OP, you've acquired the closest gun to a Registered Magnum that you can! The Model 27 is just not exceeded for fit, finish and quality of any S&W's in my humble opinion. Mine shoot any factory ammo but I like the 158 gr myself, and I don't reload.

I've got enough K Frame 38's so if the Magnums go out for exercise, they go with 357 ammo, and usually in a gun rug in a separate range bag.

My small stable of 357 magnums:

Pre Model 27, 6-1/2" shipped 10-16-1952
Model 27-2 Blue, 3-1/2" shipped 4-5-1977
Model 27-2 Nickle, 6" shipped 5-8-1980
Model 28, Satin Blue, 4" HP, shipped 10-13-1975

NOT PICTURED: My Registered Magnum, s/n, reg number, and ship date unknown cause even though 53 years of looking, drooling, close but no cigar... I can't find one I can afford.:D

What a beautiful collection!!! I haven't found a single 357 bullet online. I had to get on a waiting list. I'll continue to look for 357 bullets.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
While you can cause some wear on an N frame such your M27 with full bore .357 ammo, it takes a lot and you are likely to beat up your hands and arm joints (and your financial status) long before doing any damage to the firearm. My recommendation is that you not look too hard to find full bore ammo, but find ammo you can shoot and not beat the snot out of your body. Full bore ammo has a place in some settings, but in reality, even in self-defense use, placement is more important than anything else.
 
I haven't found a single 357 bullet online. I had to get on a waiting list. I'll continue to look for 357 bullets.

Don't overlook hard cast lead bullets. You might be able to still find those. One of my pet loads for the .357 is a hard cast 158gr LSWC over 6.0 grs of W231. I've chronographed this load at just a shade over 1000fps out of my guns. Pleasant to shoot, doesn't lead up the barrel and is wonderfully accurate. :D
 
Don't overlook hard cast lead bullets. You might be able to still find those. One of my pet loads for the .357 is a hard cast 158gr LSWC over 6.0 grs of W231. I've chronographed this load at just a shade over 1000fps out of my guns. Pleasant to shoot, doesn't lead up the barrel and is wonderfully accurate. :D

I purchased a box of Hunter's Supply 500 hard cast SWC's last week. I agree with the above post; don't overlook the SWC's, they have got the job done for many years.
 
I'll keep that in mind, but ammo is horribly scarce right now. What's the average price for a 357 bullet? Before the crisis, that is. I know 9mm used to be about 15 cents a round for fmj. I'm seeing all 357 at bare minimum 1.00 to 1.50 a bullet.
 
I certainly agree on the Safariland model 29, but also consider the model 25. The 29 is a thumb break and the model 25 is the hammer strap version. Find on that is lined with elk suade. If you have a 5 inch barrel, it will be difficult to find either one. The 6, 6 1/2 inch version is the most common, and maybe four inch.


El Paso's Model 2 (?) is almost a clone of Safariland's old M-29, and at least as well made. I've owned about five, some of each, Holds a six-inch .357 high and comfortably. I've used them for J, K, and N frames, all LINED and basketweave stamped. Work and leather is usually better than on Bianchi.

Hydra-Shok or conventional JHP or JSP. I don't trust recent Remington ANYTHING, ammo included. Use 158 grain unless you know something better for that need. Avoid hot 125 and lighter bullets, esp. in K-frame .357's. Very erosive to bbl. throats.

You must wear proper gun belt, not a common pants belt. Difference in comfort and support is very substantial.
 
I'll keep that in mind, but ammo is horribly scarce right now. What's the average price for a 357 bullet? Before the crisis, that is. I know 9mm used to be about 15 cents a round for fmj. I'm seeing all 357 at bare minimum 1.00 to 1.50 a bullet.

Bullet or cartridge?
 
Back
Top