Is there anyone running a service to regrind gun screwdriver tips? I’ve got a cigar box full of screw drivers that need refreshed. The hollow ground type. B-square, Bonanza, Stoger and Grace. If I had it to do over again would have nothing but replaceable bit type.
Screw Driver Regrind ?
- Thread starter Drm50
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DWalt
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Strange, I filed mine just yesterday, I have three hollow ground blade drivers, but I use a set of removable tips mainly. Have owned that set for over 20 years, it has something like 50 bits, all sizes and types. Most have never been used. There should be a law requiring that all screws must have Torx heads.
Probably not worth it as a business concern. You could buy a bench grinder and do them yourself. It's not rocket science. The most important thing is to keep the tip cool with frequent water dips. If it changes color, you've already screwed up.
I have found that by taking the cover off my belt sander the upper curve provides a perfect surface for regrinding or modifying a screwdriver to fit my needs. I have a Delta sharpener that was designed to sharpen high speed cutter knives for planers and the like. I use it so infrequently any more that I have it mounted on a thick piece of plywood and keep it on the shelf, takes too much time to get it down for a screwdriver. I have over the years collected a mess of gunsmith quality screwdrivers from friends that have passed or even a yard sales. Some are in great condition, others need a bit of a tune up and some have been modified to fit a particular screw on a particular firearm. The main thing about regrinding or re-surfacing is as Tom mentioned, you need to take your time and keep that tip cool.
You’d be surprised, but Emory cloth mounted to a board and some patience will fix boogered screwdriver tips.
Depending on the damage, other grits of sandpaper may be necessary.
Obviously, if a large corners is missing on the tip - my method will not work. I can confirm that “dressing up” a tip and making it look nice is not necessarily a professional task.
Practice with cheap tool first.
Use a Belt Grinder instead of a regular grinding wheel.
On that use the driver or the idler wheel round surface as the 'hollow grind' profile.
The belt is smooth as well as the wheel underneath it. The grind surface will be smooth as well.
A grinder wheel is rarely truly flat. So the surface you are grinding,,the screwdriver blade will not be flat either. You will chase after the high and low spots accross the blade trying to even it down to a nice flat surface.
Plus use a coarse grit belt. It will cut much quicker AND not heat up as easily in the process.
Making it less of a chance of over heating the tip while shaping it.
It goes much quicker too.
I use a 180grit and leave it at that.
You still have to be aware of the possibility of over heating the metal and drawing the temper out of it.
So do keep that in mind and a can of water close by to dunk the shank in occassionally.
They don't have to look like highly polished jewels when done. No need for an 800 or 1000grit finish.
Keep the tip square to the shank and the edge even and they will give good service if the temper in the tip is correct.
On that use the driver or the idler wheel round surface as the 'hollow grind' profile.
The belt is smooth as well as the wheel underneath it. The grind surface will be smooth as well.
A grinder wheel is rarely truly flat. So the surface you are grinding,,the screwdriver blade will not be flat either. You will chase after the high and low spots accross the blade trying to even it down to a nice flat surface.
Plus use a coarse grit belt. It will cut much quicker AND not heat up as easily in the process.
Making it less of a chance of over heating the tip while shaping it.
It goes much quicker too.
I use a 180grit and leave it at that.
You still have to be aware of the possibility of over heating the metal and drawing the temper out of it.
So do keep that in mind and a can of water close by to dunk the shank in occassionally.
They don't have to look like highly polished jewels when done. No need for an 800 or 1000grit finish.
Keep the tip square to the shank and the edge even and they will give good service if the temper in the tip is correct.
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