SD9VE compliant to standard conversion

[n0ukf]

By the time I got my permit and was ready to buy, my local dealer (who said they can match others' prices) no longer had a 16-round SD9VE in stock but their website indicated that they had some in warehouse in 10-round magazine versions. To get the standard one back in stock, they said it may take them several months. I didn't want to wait that long, nor wait another 2 months (or make a special 240 mile round trip earlier) to get one at the nearest Gander Mountain (if the current sale would even still be on that long... they couldn't tell me how long it will be), nor wait 3 months to pay $10 more at Mills Fleet Farm, nor buy online only to pay an additional $30 for the local dealer's transfer/handling fee. None of the other local (within 50 miles) dealers I checked had one in stock or for the same price.

So I went ahead and ordered one of their warehoused guns and it arrived today. According to the box label, this is a CA-compliant gun:

1. 10-round magazine (I knew that and am prepared to buy standard 16s later).
2. chambered round indicator (I can take it or leave it).
3. magazine trigger safety (will not fire without the magazine inserted, the standard one will. I don't like this CA feature).

Their website didn't specify any of the different features of any of the warehoused guns.


Is there any conversion out there to turn #3 back into a standard SD? As far as I can tell, this is a frame-only (not slide) difference, one additional linkage in the trigger mechanism.

 

[clenceo]

Congrats on your new pistol! Yes its really easy to fix #3. I too have a California version. Drift out the rear sear block and remove it. Locate the pin that holds the magazine disconnect and remove it. It will all fall out, but be careful for a flying spring. That's it! Now getting it all back together is a pain in the butt!

As for the round indicator, Check out Apex: https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/192083

Or remove it, cut off the end and apply epoxy to the very top to fill in the lettering. Sand and paint.

I highly recommend since the pistol is halfway apart, polish up the trigger bar.

I just finished an over travel modification:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THnSZfzfo4c[/ame]

 

[ou1954]

Magazine safety

<snip>

Is there any conversion out there to turn #3 back into a standard SD? As far as I can tell, this is a frame-only (not slide) difference, one additional linkage in the trigger mechanism.

Why do you find this a problem?

How often will you put a cartridge in the chamber, remove the magazine, and then fire that one round?

I bought the CA version for it's safety features and then added a couple of 16 round magazines for the range. For self defense I would guess that if 10 rounds doesn't do the job I would have lost the fight already.

Most folks who post on the self defense blog, and some who post here, put a round in the chamber and then fill the magazine to full capacity. What happens when you then pull the magazine and don't remember that the gun is not safe?

My wife has a problem racking the gun. The CA version allows me to put a round in the chamber, drop the magazine down a bit, and leave the house knowing that she can just push the magazine back up and have a live-loaded weapon.

Regarding your desire to revert to the stock version, there are several moving parts related to the magazine safety. I wouldn't try it based an what I see in my SD9VE/CA.

 

[n0ukf]

Congrats on your new pistol! Yes its really easy to fix #3. I too have a California version. Drift out the rear sear block and remove it. Locate the pin that holds the magazine disconnect and remove it. It will all fall out, but be careful for a flying spring. That's it! Now getting it all back together is a pain in the butt!

I don't know all the part names of the gun, if it says in the manual, I forgot it at work when I came home this evening. However, searching for "sear block", I think I see what you're talking about, though I don't see drifting out the sear block and then removing the pin to remove the magazine disconnect.

As for the round indicator, Check out Apex: https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/192083

Or remove it, cut off the end and apply epoxy to the very top to fill in the lettering. Sand and paint.

I don't see the indicator being a problem for anything.

I highly recommend since the pistol is halfway apart, polish up the trigger bar.

I just finished an over travel modification:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THnSZfzfo4c

Polish where? Your video just shows pulling the Apex trigger several times. I still have the original trigger (having bought the gun a mere 10 hours ago).

 

[clenceo]

Ok...not a problem.

I'll take pictures and submit them where to drift out. I will also indicate where to polish.

My apologies for assuming that you would know what I'm talking about. Until then, enjoy your new pistol...it's truly a joy to shoot!!

 

[n0ukf]

Shooting it for the first time tomorrow (weather permitting). Spent this evening cleaning it and familiarizing myself with its operation (unloaded and loaded with snap caps).

 

[clenceo]

Check out this video on how to remove the rear housing block. Fast forward to 5:15 to see it:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atOw-1FoJV4[/ame]

In this picture, locate the bottom silver pin (6 o'clock position) go straight up you'll locate the second pin (its already off in my picture) drift it out, and everything falls out. Nothing else is needed. I would suggest to take a picture before you remove anything in case you want to reinstall the spring.

If your rear pin looks like mine (solid) look very closely for ridges on the side of the pin. It goes in only one way. Once you determine on what side the ridges are on, set you punch on the opposite end. It comes our relatively easy.
If the pin looks like a coil spring, I typically drift out from right to left (as if you're looking down the rear sight)

Most importantly, insure your pistol has been made safe and no ammo is near you.

Please let me know if this helps....

 

[n0ukf]

Thanks for the video, I got the parts out (and bagged for storage) a half hour ago. You didn't say, but it also showed where to polish the trigger bar linkage.

Having fired off some rounds yesterday, I see what people mean about the trigger pull and will likely get the Apex spring kit before too long. I'm not sure about the replacement trigger yet, I don't have any problem with it right now as is, just the pull force.

 

[clenceo]

Glad you were able to remove the parts. I hope my instruction where concise.
As for the video, I completely forgot that it did indicate where to polish. I'm sure as you continue to practice with your pistol, the trigger will naturally smooth out.

Truly an excellent pistol!

 

[ou1954]

Good post. I thought I was alone but apparently not.

I see that I had responded previously but the argument presented matches my feelings precisely.

 

[Mark IV]

Good post. I thought I was alone but apparently not.

I see that I had responded previously but the argument presented matches my feelings precisely.

I was in agreement with his post (#10).....right up until he was advocating the implementation of the bio-imprinting feature on firearms. Ultimately, this is just another end-run on freedom of firearms ownership, and a way to criminalize all earlier firearms that don't have the feature.

 

[ou1954]

Bio-imprinting

I was in agreement with his post (#10).....right up until he was advocating the implementation of the bio-imprinting feature on firearms. Ultimately, this is just another end-run on freedom of firearms ownership, and a way to criminalize all earlier firearms that don't have the feature.

Yes, that does go a little far and I don't think we are ready for it. At the very least it should be a system that allows a family or group of people to fire a weapon.

Even so, there are so many issues, such as battery life, and other technical problems that put that approach far into the future. Also, it could never be retrofitted to existing guns.

Finally, having seen demonstrations of one such system, it seemed to add unacceptable problems to self defense situations.

I agree with two issues, tactile loaded chamber indicator and magazine safety.

 

[S&W Rover]

To the OP, don't overlook that you can sell your 10 round magazines to people who need them, e.g., who live in the locales that require 10 rounders, and you can buy 16 round magazines from Greg Cote or any number of vendors on the Internet.

But when you shoot this pistol and start to get used to it, the issues you bring up will fade to lesser concern. By all means fix the loaded chamber indicator if it bothers you, and remove the magazine interlock if that does too. As for the heavy trigger pull on these pistols, the best technique seems to be a continuous smooth pull, more like that used to shoot a double-action revolver, rather than a slow pull waiting for the break. The pistol will smooth out as you use it, too. I'm okay with the heavier trigger pull and feel it is an asset in a self-defense pistol. But then, I have some S&W revolvers with very good single-action triggers that are superb for shooting on the range.

 

[infini]

I'm VERY curious about this removal you did. So I can take out that whole piece that you have to click down to field strip? Does this also let the gun dry fire without the magazine like adult guns do? . Sorry to being the thread back from the dead. I just got the gun. Not a lot of videos on the subject actually. I just want it to function like a normal darn gun. My glock 19 is just fine. None of this silliness.

PS: I see the post with the parts. I'll take a look. I don't want do take out anything I don't need to lol!

Congrats on your new pistol! Yes its really easy to fix #3. I too have a California version. Drift out the rear sear block and remove it. Locate the pin that holds the magazine disconnect and remove it. It will all fall out, but be careful for a flying spring. That's it! Now getting it all back together is a pain in the butt!

As for the round indicator, Check out Apex: Details

Or remove it, cut off the end and apply epoxy to the very top to fill in the lettering. Sand and paint.

I highly recommend since the pistol is halfway apart, polish up the trigger bar.

I just finished an over travel modification:
Smith and Wesson SD40VE - YouTube

 

[FLShutterbug55]

Following the information given here by Calenceo, I have just rendered my formerly CA compliant SD9VE into a Freestate compliant SD9VE. Thanks for the very good info!

 

[nimbly]

Why do you find this a problem?

How often will you put a cartridge in the chamber, remove the magazine, and then fire that one round?

I bought the CA version for it's safety features and then added a couple of 16 round magazines for the range. For self defense I would guess that if 10 rounds doesn't do the job I would have lost the fight already.

Most folks who post on the self defense blog, and some who post here, put a round in the chamber and then fill the magazine to full capacity. What happens when you then pull the magazine and don't remember that the gun is not safe?

My wife has a problem racking the gun. The CA version allows me to put a round in the chamber, drop the magazine down a bit, and leave the house knowing that she can just push the magazine back up and have a live-loaded weapon.

Regarding your desire to revert to the stock version, there are several moving parts related to the magazine safety. I wouldn't try it based an what I see in my SD9VE/CA.

Not living in a restricted state I don't have experience with a magazine disconnect in my SD9, but I know some guns with a magazine disconnect are fine. Like the Bersa .380. Some pistols on the other hand the disconnect make the trigger awful and the magazine not drop free. For example the Ruger MK3 pistol. Removing the magazine disconnect brings that pistol to a whole new level.

Another issue (and though I have not had it ever happen, I see the logic) is the idea that while carrying, the magazine release is bumped partly ejecting the mag. Then in an emergency draw, the mag drops and the gun is dead. Without the safety the gun would fire once.

Thanks for the video, I got the parts out (and bagged for storage) a half hour ago. You didn't say, but it also showed where to polish the trigger bar linkage.

Having fired off some rounds yesterday, I see what people mean about the trigger pull and will likely get the Apex spring kit before too long. I'm not sure about the replacement trigger yet, I don't have any problem with it right now as is, just the pull force.

Apex spring kit is highly recommended. There is a how to install video on youtube, and he explains where you should polish.

To the OP, don't overlook that you can sell your 10 round magazines to people who need them, e.g., who live in the locales that require 10 rounders, and you can buy 16 round magazines from Greg Cote or any number of vendors on the Internet.

But when you shoot this pistol and start to get used to it, the issues you bring up will fade to lesser concern. By all means fix the loaded chamber indicator if it bothers you, and remove the magazine interlock if that does too. As for the heavy trigger pull on these pistols, the best technique seems to be a continuous smooth pull, more like that used to shoot a double-action revolver, rather than a slow pull waiting for the break. The pistol will smooth out as you use it, too. I'm okay with the heavier trigger pull and feel it is an asset in a self-defense pistol. But then, I have some S&W revolvers with very good single-action triggers that are superb for shooting on the range.

Very good point! Also, do a search on the forum, there is a site out there that gets regular 16 round (factory stainless) magazines on sale for 9.99.

 

[krallstar]

Will the sd rear block fit an F series. Reason i ask is my F pins won't come out.