RJJ 1971
Member
Both of mine are cerakoted and I have stippled the grips on both. Internals are stock.
SD9VE - keeping it stock
- Thread starter Okie21
- Start date
Sights
I posted elsewhere about my chance meeting and discussion with a policeman who was carrying a Glock. He said there was no need, at least in his opinion, for any special night sights. I've never tried one and sort of feel he hasn't either. They have to be discussed at the police range, which is outside.
Night sights surely seem to be popular with the folks on this forum, however.
He did seem to agree that my laser pointer sight "probably" would be useful in a night (Or I suppose daytime) home invasion. I don't think he had ever tried one.
My only issue with the laser pointer is that you can't just take it off and then put it back on and expect to see it zeroed in, as advertised. A typical change in alignment at 15' is about 4-5 inches. Well, I don't shoot that good anyhow unless I take time to aim.
I would "guess" that in a home defense situation folks don't aim like they do at a gun range anyhow. I'll probably never have that experience but one instructor is recommending that I try some of those live fire contests, "USPSA" I believe they are called.
I posted elsewhere about my chance meeting and discussion with a policeman who was carrying a Glock. He said there was no need, at least in his opinion, for any special night sights. I've never tried one and sort of feel he hasn't either. They have to be discussed at the police range, which is outside.
Night sights surely seem to be popular with the folks on this forum, however.
He did seem to agree that my laser pointer sight "probably" would be useful in a night (Or I suppose daytime) home invasion. I don't think he had ever tried one.
My only issue with the laser pointer is that you can't just take it off and then put it back on and expect to see it zeroed in, as advertised. A typical change in alignment at 15' is about 4-5 inches. Well, I don't shoot that good anyhow unless I take time to aim.
I would "guess" that in a home defense situation folks don't aim like they do at a gun range anyhow. I'll probably never have that experience but one instructor is recommending that I try some of those live fire contests, "USPSA" I believe they are called.
I tried so hard not to change it! But my fingers thanked me after I did, it took 2 months of trying, everyday.
I don't think I would go with night sights, thinking more of the daytime optic sights. I recently used a shot gun with an optic front sight at a clay sporting tourney and was impressed with how quickly I was able to get on target. Not sure if the optic front sight will do the same on a pistol but it seems like it would allow me to lock on target quicker.
I went for the whole package on my SD9: Apex spring kit, extended takedown bar, steel guide rod, and picked up an M&P metal rear sight. I liked the gun stock, I like it a lot better now. (Talon grips on the way....for $17 how can I go wrong there?)
Funny thing is, the idea of doing anything at all, ever, on any of my 39's or 59's never entered my mind. I love them the way they are, totally stock (except I put Pach grips on my 39-2 shooter).
I was considering night sights on my 908 as it was my carry gun, but when I switched to a Shield for carry (and went the whole package on that) I decided to leave a great gun a great gun and not try to "improve" it.
I'm wondering that the difference in how I feel about my older metal Smiths and the new poly ones is the difference between merely tuning up a "plastic" tool and altering a classic piece of craftsmanship. Or am I just being silly?
Funny thing is, the idea of doing anything at all, ever, on any of my 39's or 59's never entered my mind. I love them the way they are, totally stock (except I put Pach grips on my 39-2 shooter).
I was considering night sights on my 908 as it was my carry gun, but when I switched to a Shield for carry (and went the whole package on that) I decided to leave a great gun a great gun and not try to "improve" it.
I'm wondering that the difference in how I feel about my older metal Smiths and the new poly ones is the difference between merely tuning up a "plastic" tool and altering a classic piece of craftsmanship. Or am I just being silly?
Barrel stop
In another thread today I reported that I just tried the original bar and really didn't have a problem but I put the .92mm longer NDZ bar back in. It is indeed a bit easier, however the shorter stock bar wasn't as much of a problem as it was on day one.
I think my technique improved but I give in to you. I probably mentioned in some much older post that with the stock bar I started putting a rag on the bar to save my fingertips.
I tried so hard not to change it! But my fingers thanked me after I did, it took 2 months of trying, everyday.
In another thread today I reported that I just tried the original bar and really didn't have a problem but I put the .92mm longer NDZ bar back in. It is indeed a bit easier, however the shorter stock bar wasn't as much of a problem as it was on day one.
I think my technique improved but I give in to you. I probably mentioned in some much older post that with the stock bar I started putting a rag on the bar to save my fingertips.
I would recommend you go to 1000 RDs. before you think about any changes. The trigger will improve & your finger will get stronger. I don't give the trigger a second thought any more.
& I took a fairly new shooter to the range that is looking to get a gun she shot mine & we rented a glock she like the SD9ve better & even I did not find a lot of deference in the triggers.
,
had it three years got to be 5000 RDs.
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Its just that little bit I needed, my guitar playing fingers and some dead nerves in my left fingers, othrwise you are 10000000% correct!!
Barrel Stop Length
I have to agree. About your fingers, I played the trumpet/cornet through College and hadn't touched it in 60+ years. Doc Severinsen played a concert here a couple of weeks ago and I decided to try my horn the preceding day. My lip is completely gone. He's 5 years older than I and he still hits all the notes.
I had a chance to talk with him after the show and I happened to be wearing a jacket with a Historical Diving Society patch on it and he inquired whether I dove. I said I did and asked if he did. He said no, he was claustrophobic. I told him that my lip was gone. His concluding remark - "Well, you can't play and I can't dive."
I hope your fingers continue to serve you on your old instrument and your new one, the SD.
I have to agree. About your fingers, I played the trumpet/cornet through College and hadn't touched it in 60+ years. Doc Severinsen played a concert here a couple of weeks ago and I decided to try my horn the preceding day. My lip is completely gone. He's 5 years older than I and he still hits all the notes.
I had a chance to talk with him after the show and I happened to be wearing a jacket with a Historical Diving Society patch on it and he inquired whether I dove. I said I did and asked if he did. He said no, he was claustrophobic. I told him that my lip was gone. His concluding remark - "Well, you can't play and I can't dive."
I hope your fingers continue to serve you on your old instrument and your new one, the SD.
When I was a rookie LEO in the academy the lead firearms instructor pulled out a box of beat to death Ruger P-series. He had a heavier hammer spring installed (I would estimate a trigger pull of 14-16#) and would make us sit there and dry fire them every day while in the classroom portion of firearms training then after each range session. He would tell us that if you could get use to these triggers, the S&W 3rd gen triggers would be buttery smooth and light as a feather. He was right too. Some people could only pull the trigger 15-20 times before they were done for, when we started anyway.
Kronos
Member
As I've said elsewhere the only thing I changed was the trigger as I hate the two piece hinged thing S&W uses now,I literally took the gun out of the box on the first day and tore it down and put in the apex before I ever shot the gun.
The trigger pull had nothing to do with it but I did dry fire it before the replacement and the apex does change the pull in many ways but it's not something I pay much attention to,it is different though.
The trigger pull had nothing to do with it but I did dry fire it before the replacement and the apex does change the pull in many ways but it's not something I pay much attention to,it is different though.
I agree. I almost bought one because I was having a difficult time. However, once I figured out how to do it, I found not need for a longer one at all. It's how you do it. If you do it wrong, it won't help no matter how many times you do it. You put moderate steady pressure on both sides and move the slide back just a tiny bit.
WayneJessie
Member
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The attraction of the SD is its price. Spending as little on one as you can is wise if you think you may sell it at some point. I had mine Cerakoted as well as the spring kit and fiber optic sights. Now selling it would be a very loosing proposition for me. None of that stuff help with resale at all.
The SD-series pistol has a lot of value for the price, and keeping it stock keeps the price down -- and it works pretty well when stock. There is virtue in keeping them stock.
It can be fun to do the mods, though, and each mod sort of stands on its own in terms of effectiveness versus cost. The NDZ takedown lever makes sense if you have problems with the stock takedown lever. The metal recoil spring rod makes sense if the plastic one bothers you. Etc. Bottom line here is that even the mods for the SD9 are not terribly expensive, compared to mods on the M&P, the Glucks, etc. I sure spent a lot of money on modifying my M&P9, making a good pistol better but investing probably $400-$500 on the darn thing. That made it roughly a $800-$900 pistol by time I was done -- not a good value for the money.
If they add to the fun, and you can afford them, then mods to the SD-series pistols are just fine. This pistol remains a great value for the price, even with the mods!
It can be fun to do the mods, though, and each mod sort of stands on its own in terms of effectiveness versus cost. The NDZ takedown lever makes sense if you have problems with the stock takedown lever. The metal recoil spring rod makes sense if the plastic one bothers you. Etc. Bottom line here is that even the mods for the SD9 are not terribly expensive, compared to mods on the M&P, the Glucks, etc. I sure spent a lot of money on modifying my M&P9, making a good pistol better but investing probably $400-$500 on the darn thing. That made it roughly a $800-$900 pistol by time I was done -- not a good value for the money.
If they add to the fun, and you can afford them, then mods to the SD-series pistols are just fine. This pistol remains a great value for the price, even with the mods!
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martybee
Member
Mine is 100% stock. The only thing I have had to do to mine is repaint the front sight! It is steel and unlike the rear, it is counter-bored. A drop of bright white model paint from a round tooth pick works nicely!
mb
mb
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I agree to each their own. I have recently purchased an SD9 and have put about 600-700 rounds through it with 115gr perfecta, federal 115gr, and currently have 123gr ZQI which I really like too. The gun has been accurate and flawless not one hiccup. Last week I installed the trigger spring kit and replaced the trigger both apex with no problems whatsoever and I can tell you I noticed a nice difference in trigger pull and shorter travel of the trigger. I also installed the Galloway 17lb recoil spring for kicks. You cant be the price of the gun and reliability. I have a glock 17 and an XDS 9 and I like this one the best.
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