Sear/Trigger Loop engagement, normal?

[potpot821]

I just read a thread from one member who installed the Apex trigger and seem to be having issues with the trigger loop to sear contact/engagement. And so I wondered, on the stock/OEM parts, which I have, I've also noticed that the trigger loop(?) on my Shield does not completely goes in contact with the sear. It's like just half of the loop is engaging or pushing the sear, there's also wear/scrape marks on the area of the loop that gets in contact with the sear.

Is this normal? and will the wear/scrape marks get any worse? Ive polished those areas prior to shooting the pistol, and has only about 250 rounds down the pipe.

Here's a crappy phone pic:

 

[Whitwabit]

Might try and set the pistol down and take another picture .. your phone seemed to focused on your hand . set it on a table or lean it against something if it won't stand alone and see if a better picture can be had !

 

[DeathF.above]

That looks normal to me. As long as it works don't worry yourself.

 

[potpot821]

Sorry about that crappy shot, here's a better one. Though the trigger is not pulled all the way back (rubber band is stretching), the trigger loop stays in that position, even when I held the pistol and pulled the trigger.

So if that's normal with OEM parts, do those with Apex kits displays the same clearance/contact points between sear and trigger loop? just as what seems to be the OP's case on this thread?
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...-having-troubles-installing-apex-trigger.html

 

[Bkreutz]

I think you've got the end of the trigger bar in the wrong position in the sear block, here's a pic of one of mine (the other two look the same. This is with an Apex FSS kit, but the stock sear looks the same in my 9c

 

[potpot821]

Thank you for the pic Bkreutz. But I don't follow what you meant by my trigger bar being in the wrong position in the sear block?
Are you saying that on re-assembly, I may have inserted the end of the trigger bar at the wrong spot in the sear housing?
But wouldn't that affect functionality? I've already fired the pistol twice (250+ rounds) and everything went well. Except of course the issue(?) Im asking about.

Maybe I'll dis-assemble it and check if something's in the way where the trigger end is that keeps the loop from going all the way under thes ear just as yours does.

 

[Bkreutz]

Thank you for the pic Bkreutz. But I don't follow what you meant by my trigger bar being in the wrong position in the sear block?
Are you saying that on re-assembly, I may have inserted the end of the trigger bar at the wrong spot in the sear housing?
But wouldn't that affect functionality? I've already fired the pistol twice (250+ rounds) and everything went well. Except of course the issue(?) Im asking about.

Maybe I'll dis-assemble it and check if something's in the way where the trigger end is that keeps the loop from going all the way under thes ear just as yours does.

The only reason I mentioned getting the trigger bar in the wrong place is that I've done it a couple of times, made the trigger real hard to pull, figured something was wrong, that's when I found the bar not under the sear completely. You could also have a bent trigger bar (loop bent over). I think over time the loop would wear unevenly.

 

[potpot821]

Ok, so I've dis-assembled and looked at the area where the end of the trigger bar goes in the sear housing, nothing gets is in the way of the trigger bar "tail" which might keep the loop to fully slide under the sear. But I think I may be the mag dis-connect. I noticed that Bkreutz's pistol does not have one, which gives the loop more area to go into. When I tried to push the bar towards the left as I pull it, the whole width of the loop would all go under the sear. But since the mag disconnect is in the way, Im thinking that maybe there's not enough room or tension for the trigger loop to move closer to the sear.

Now Im debating if I should remove the disconnect, or just live with it. It does show the uneven wear on the loop. Not sure how many rounds it would take, for that uneven wear to have any(?) effects on the pistol's functionality.

 

[Whitwabit]

I think you've got the end of the trigger bar in the wrong position in the sear block, here's a pic of one of mine (the other two look the same. This is with an Apex FSS kit, but the stock sear looks the same in my 9c

Just picked up my 40c the 8th and the trigger bar looks just like this picture if that's any help .. no trigger work has been done on mine yet.

 

[Johnmuratore]

I've seen this before. Some trigger bars engage the sear more than others. If its working I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[potpot821]

I just wanted to update this thread.

When I first asked about this issue of the loop not completely sliding under the sear, when the trigger is pulled, some say that it's normal. And that if it works, just shoot it.
So I did just that. But as the round count rises, the wear mark or scraping on the side of the loop that engages the sear was getting deeper. It got to the point that when I was dry firing (a few weeks ago), the pistol started to have malfunctions. It would not release the striker when the trigger is pulled. If I release the trigger and pull it again, sometimes it would engage/fire, but sometimes it wont.
I made a thread about it here: http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-m-p-pistols/443421-help-shield-trigger-acting-up.html

I called CS, discussed the problem, and the lady I spoke with said she's emailing me a return ticket/label. Waited a day and half and no email. Called again and this time spoke to Steve Roach, mentioned the same story, and he told me to wait while he emails me the label as we speak.
So long story short, I send the gun the first week of this month, and today I got it back! They replaced the trigger bar, and from how dirty the mag follower is, it looks like the gun was test fired several times.

Anyway what I did notice while cleaning and inspecting it, was the whole width of the trigger loop is now engaging the sear!
So IMO, if any of you guys has your Shield trigger loop just partially engaging the sear, and starts to have scrape marks? chances are it will end up like mine.

I hope that this fix will keep the gun spitting lead for a much longer time.
I was bummed, actually smacking my head while waiting to get it back, wondering why the heck did I sell my 20 year old 6904, that's been worry free. And replaced it with a Shield, that needs repair, in less than 6 months from the LGS?
Oh well, live and learn.