SHARPEN RAZOR BLADES YOU SAY! AM I NUTZZZ??

[chief38]

I have been at the knife sharpening game since I was in the Boy Scouts. Up until about 6 or 7 months or so ago I would typically use my tried and true set of Arkansas Stones and they gave me a nice razor sharp edge, but good results were tedious, messy (had to use oil) and had to flatten out the stones from time to time.

Recently, Strawhat (here on the Forum) convinced me to try diamond stones and I was receptive to his idea and suggestions. After getting a few it was like going from a VW Beatle to a Mercedes! It cut my knife sharpening time by 80%, diamond stones need no water or oil so the mess was eliminated, they never get out of flat and they work incredibly well! They also wear like iron and last a long time - and YES, I was late to the game. So I have been sharpening hundreds and hundreds of knives, chisels and blades with the diamond stones now and except for a nostalgic experience or a gun smithing task now and then, I think I have basically retired my Arkansas stones.

I am in my work shop pretty much every day and I use Stanley razor utility knives very often. The thing about the utility blades (regardless of brand) is that they are strong but just not very sharp. I also find that after just a few cuts of heavy duty cardboard, they get dull fast. I have been going through many boxes of blades and finally decided to try and sharpen them. After only a few strokes on each side without even removing the blade from the handle, the razor blade is super sharp - sharper than they came out of the package. I have been using my favorite Stanley utility knife with the same resharpened blade for over a month now - and it gets used very often. Yesterday I finally turned the blade around and even though it is a little sloppy because the size has been reduced a bit I now have the other side to use. I do NOT do this because I am being cheap or trying to save money, but I can actually sharpen the blade in the knife faster than I can swap it out for a new one! All it takes is 3 - 5 strokes on each side and it's sharper than new in seconds!
I have been sharpening tools that I have not used in years the same way. Tools such as Xacto knives, fixed blade vintage Surgeon's scalpels, scissors, shears, etc. I just can't get over how well and rapidly diamond stones cut.

I don't know if there are others here that follow suit, but if you do use a utility box cutter often and find yourself swapping out blades way to often, I would suggest trying this procedure. Not only is it fast, you will save money and have a sharper than new blade. And...... yes, I never thought I would be doing this either.

 

[jeffrefrig]

Thanks for relaying Strawhat's tip via your post. I have folding knives all over the place in my house, used mostly for cutting up boxes for our recycle pickup. After a few boxes they need a tune-up, whichever one I grab. (The older Barlow holds a nice edge best of all.) I'm about as good at sharpening as I am shooting bottle caps at 15 yards! I'll have to check these out ($$$?) Maybe even I can cut up boxes faster now! Thanks for the tip; I didn't know they existed.
Edit to add: Maybe I can start using my box cutters again. I hate changing those stupid blades!

 

[Narragansett]

Got any product information make, size, grit, cost etc

I talked with Kevin about this within the last few weeks, but deleted his reply by mistake

 

[Heinz]

I sharpen my utility knives. I also spray a bit of Windex on my diamond stones while using them. I feel it speeds the cut and keeps the "stone" clean. I still finish hone on a hard black Arkansaw stone or an old razor hone. This same technique works on straight razors. An old straight razor, with a nicked-up blade, properly sharpened, is very handy around the workbench for fine cuts.
A few notes, I have not done any scientific evaluation and I am not a great knife sharpener. Diamond stones are not stones, they are diamond-coated steel bars (some cheap ones are on plastic) but they do not break, I have broken more than one natural stone when it slipped off a bench.

 

[murphydog]

I would say if you have the needed sharpening equipment and skills that you are not "nutzzz", just thrifty. And there is nothing wrong with that.

 

[Hawg Rider]

I've used a Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker for a few years to sharpen knives and scissors. It works OK, but still takes quite a bit of time. I finally broke down and purchased a set of diamond rods for the Spyderco...what a difference! It won't sharpen by itself, but it quickly prepares the blades for the medium and fine rods to really put a nice edge on the knife.

 

[max503]

I have been at the knife sharpening game since I was in the Boy Scouts. Up until about 6 or 7 months or so ago I would typically use my tried and true set of Arkansas Stones and they gave me a nice razor sharp edge, but good results were tedious, messy (had to use oil) and had to flatten out the stones from time to time.

Recently, Strawhat (here on the Forum) convinced me to try diamond stones and I was receptive to his idea and suggestions. After getting a few it was like going from a VW Beatle to a Mercedes! It cut my knife sharpening time by 80%, diamond stones need no water or oil so the mess was eliminated, they never get out of flat and they work incredibly well! They also wear like iron and last a long time - and YES, I was late to the game. So I have been sharpening hundreds and hundreds of knives, chisels and blades with the diamond stones now and except for a nostalgic experience or a gun smithing task now and then, I think I have basically retired my Arkansas stones.

I am in my work shop pretty much every day and I use Stanley razor utility knives very often. The thing about the utility blades (regardless of brand) is that they are strong but just not very sharp. I also find that after just a few cuts of heavy duty cardboard, they get dull fast. I have been going through many boxes of blades and finally decided to try and sharpen them. After only a few strokes on each side without even removing the blade from the handle, the razor blade is super sharp - sharper than they came out of the package. I have been using my favorite Stanley utility knife with the same resharpened blade for over a month now - and it gets used very often. Yesterday I finally turned the blade around and even though it is a little sloppy because the size has been reduced a bit I now have the other side to use. I do NOT do this because I am being cheap or trying to save money, but I can actually sharpen the blade in the knife faster than I can swap it out for a new one! All it takes is 3 - 5 strokes on each side and it's sharper than new in seconds!
I have been sharpening tools that I have not used in years the same way. Tools such as Xacto knives, fixed blade vintage Surgeon's scalpels, scissors, shears, etc. I just can't get over how well and rapidly diamond stones cut.

I don't know if there are others here that follow suit, but if you do use a utility box cutter often and find yourself swapping out blades way to often, I would suggest trying this procedure. Not only is it fast, you will save money and have a sharper than new blade. And...... yes, I never thought I would be doing this either.

What diamond stones do you use? I recently started using a new - to me - technique I learned about on Youtube where you drag the blade on a stone. It works good but the stones need frequent flattening. I would like to try a diamond stone.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

Been using the 4 sided diamond block sharpener for years......As you said "It works great!"

 

[2152hq]

I've used diamond 'plates' for sharpening for yrs.,,and they last for yrs.

I use a 6" long 'Fine' grit for most sharpening. It's a DMT brand and one of their 'Dia-Sharp' editions which are their economical brand.

DMT 6" Dia-Sharp Diamond Stone — Sharpening Supplies

You can shop around and find them for around $30 to $40 for the 6" length plate. Different grits available.

I use it dry sometimes but it cuts better and smoother with a few drops of oil,,or water on it.
I keep a small squeeze bottle (old eye glass cleaner bottle) on the bench with water in it along with just a small drop of dish soap added for the task. Seems to keep things going well and the surface of the plate clear of steel dust from sharpening.

I don't use sharpening stones at all and haven't in yrs.
I started using the diamond sharpening plates when I switched to Carbide gravers,,the diamond sharpening plates out of necessity at that point.

I also like the cheap and simple diamond polishing 'sticks' in different grits.
Plastic polishing sticks with a diamond impregnated metal plate on one end. They last a long time though sometimes that plate gets loose. Super glue to the rescue for that.
Great for hand polishing the complicated S&W revolver frame and keeping it flat. Though that polishing task is still a lot of hours to do it right.

Also good for re-sharpening your flint in your flint lock. They cut flint very easily. I've used 'worn out' diamond sticks for this and they still cut very well. A new one of med or even course grit will cut down a flint in a few strokes. Just a fine powdery dust results.
No 'flint knapping' to recover a sharp edge.

 

[Shotguncoach]

*sigh…….add to cart. This place costs me money again.

 

[Narragansett]

*sigh…….add to cart. This place costs me money again.

I got a good laugh out of that post. That was funny!!!

 

[Truckman]

Also available at Amazon......Ben

 

[Mercury]

I used to view the blades in my utility knives as being disposable once they became dull. A few weeks ago I was watching an episode of Ask This Old House and Tom Silva passed on a tip that he sharpens his utility blades with a stone when they get dull and that he gets a lot more mileage out of them.

Now that Chief38 has had the same results, I'm going to give it a try; even though I probably have enough blades that I would never need to buy more again.

 

[StrawHat]

I used to hang drywall. Always kept a triple fold of sand paper in my pouch. The first sign of dullness in my contractor knife and I would strop it 3 or 4 times on the sandpaper. Faster than swapping blades.

Kevin

 

[Hair Trigger]

I use a "sharp stick" for my knives. It is a wooden handle with a ceramic rod the diameter of a fat pencil and about a foot long. You sharpen the blade like you're trying to whittle the stick, one stroke on either side of the blade and repeat a half dozen times. On steel like a Buck 110 blade has you can shave with it after sharpening. The ceramic will build up removed metal and it turns gray, but a coarse washcloth scrubbing with some Comet cleaner takes it back to like new.

I've got both Arkansas and Washita stones and they do a good job but it takes a while, and honing oil, to get a good edge. I've wanted to try a diamond sharpener, but my Sharp Stick has worked so well I never got around to buying one.

 

[tops]

Many years ago I was walking through a mall and saw a knife store that had a diamond stone on the counter and a sign that stated to sharpen your knife. I decided to try it and prove to myself that it was just a bunch of bull. I tried it and bought one and haven't used anything else for years. Larry

 

[chief38]

I have mostly 8" x 3" DMT stones and one 11" long, but I sharpen lots ad lots of knives now. I do not care for the versions that have blank spaces on the surface or alternating "patterns". I like 100% coverage as a personal preference. I also use DMT diamond files for serrated blades but so far I have been less than thrilled with them and I am currently looking for a better brand. To me, their diamond files are disappointing. For pretty much anyone who is just doing sharpening as a hobby or for their own personal use I would recommend the diamond stone mentioned below. It works just the same as the DMT at half the price. It is a two sided stone and comes with its own holder for sharpening which also serves as a storage container. It comes with an angle guide as well but I never use that - been at this for a while and do not need to but it is there for those who do. I tried this "stone" on a whim as it was recommended to me by someone and I was actually very much surprised at the great quality, consistency and the fact that there is no stone contamination on either side. IMHO there isn't a better diamond stone available for the money and it is damned near as good as the ones at twice the price. As a hobbiest or "personal use sharpener", other than the strop, it is all you'll need.

The stone I am talking about is the Sharpal 162N and purchased on Amazon ($69 bucks delivered). They do sell different versions but this one is the one I'd recommend for most here. I'd not buy a smaller one which they do make as well. The grits are 325 on one side and 1200 on the other. Truthfully I have many grits above, below and in between but they are usually just not necessary! The secret to finishing a knife is not necessarily more stones, it's a diamond encrusted leather strop - rough suede side. After sharpening I will strop the blade on a home made diamond treated strop and it becomes hair popping sharp, if that is what you are wanting to achieve. I mostly use a 4 micron emulsion from Jende. Not necessary for most applications but when that is the result I am looking for that is what I use. It also quickly tunes knives up between sharpening much better than a Steel.

 

[chief38]

What diamond stones do you use? I recently started using a new - to me - technique I learned about on Youtube where you drag the blade on a stone. It works good but the stones need frequent flattening. I would like to try a diamond stone.

See post 17.

 

[chief38]

BTW, I also own a few different knife sharpening "systems" that I bought many years ago. They include the KME, the Spyderco ceramic triangle system, a Lansky and a few others. Yes, they will sharpen a knife however a knife that is in bad shape or needs re-profiling it will take lots of time. IMHO if you just can not deal with the learning curve of freehand sharpening on stones, the KME works well, however like I said, it is not a quick method. The Spyderco triangle ceramic system is best used to keep a knife sharp and not really sharpen a really dull one from scratch - you will be there for quite a while! They also have very expensive fancy systems out now but again, IMHO free hand sharpening is the way to go for efficiency, speed, and longevity of equipment without spending a fortune. You just need some time and patience.

Free hand sharpening on a flat stone takes some time to master. Over time, muscle memory will kick in and you can good at it. There is a lot of frustration along the way (no doubt) and I'd highly recommend starting out with inexpensive knives at first until you get good at the method. For one who is serious and sharpens lots of blades, it will pay off in the long run, but I understand not everyone is into that nor wants to dedicate lots of time to learn.

 

[2152hq]

I sometimes use a buffer wheel (OMG!) to put the last touch of sharpness to an inletting chisel or a carving knife.
A simple 6" cloth stiched wheel 'hard wheel", not one the floppy loose stacked layerd buffing wheels .
Larger dia would certainly be OK, it's just what I had lying around doing nothing.

A high polish 'rouge' type polishing compound on the wheel,,or as I am using a small piece of the stuff Brownells sells (sold?) for that gleeming brite shine to steel after using the lesser grits (on a buffing wheel of course).

It's nothing more than what a leather of cloth strop is doing to the edge, but it gets me there quickly and for me it seems a better edge than if I do it with a strop.

I have a small elec motor with a drill chuck on the shaft and the wheel mounted on that. That's pretty much the only use for it, but when doing a stock inletting job or other wood work in restoration, those extra sharp edged tools are a must.
I like to spend my time working on the stock/gun and not admiring any skill I my have in sharpening the chisels and knives to do it.

As an added thing to do after sharpening no matter to what degree you do,,there will usually be what is called a 'wire edge' of steel hanging right on the sharp edge of the blade.
That wire edge foldes back and forth from side to side of the blade as you sharpen the opposite side(s). It can hang on and still be there however tiny. Often you can see that hanger-on'ner edge especially with a magnifier on
After the final sharpening, take the edge of the blade and sink it into a piece of soft wood like Pine.

The front edge moulding on my work bench is just right for this and is full of both slice& jab marks fom removing the wire edge when sharpening chisels and gravers,

Push the edge of the blade lengthwise into and with the grain of the wood and pull it right back out again. It only needs to go to a depth to sink the WEdge into the wood,,not deep at all.
The wood will usually snag that wire edge and the blade will come out of the wood w/o it. The nice sharpe cutting edge is free of it for you.

Using a strop will usually elliminate the problem, but not always especially if the blade steel is a bit on the soft side/less than perfect.