Shipping damage to M57 no dash

[tulsamal]

Did you try the new pin in the revolver as recieved to see if it would work?

That's the first thing I did. But the cylinder wouldn't close. The muzzle end of the pin wouldn't quite clear the frame and go into the channel. So I pulled the new pin back out and actually got out the digital calipers.

Also check the "hole" in the frame that the rounded end of the pin goes into. It might have been damaged as well.

I just went and looked at it with a magnifying glass. It looks OK to me. Maybe this is a case of good engineering. The pin is softer than the recoil shield, if the pin is slammed into that hole really hard, the pin dies but the hole survives?

Regarding your question: I would use a file to fit the center pin.

At first I was thinking about some little jeweler's saw or something but then I decided a file made more sense. So I think we are on the same page. Put the pin in a vice with wood jaw blocks on both sides. Only let a small amount of the pin protrude, file just a bit, take out and check, etc.

I was wondering about what profile I would leave the muzzle part of the rod. Factory rods I've looked at are basically square down there. Seems like just a bit of rounding would be worthwhile but maybe not?

I _think_ the cylinder end is the right length. Just holding the new one next to the old one, the distance from the little collar to the rounded end that sticks out of the star looks the same. I'll have to really, really examine it carefully before I take anything off the muzzle end.

Thanks,

Gregg

 

[tulsamal]

Just wanted to put the closing post onto this saga.

The seller sent me a new center pin. I went and bought a new fine file. The guy at the store tried to sell me a Dremel sanding wheel. Which I realized I already had at home in many configurations. So I put the new center pin in a couple of wood blocks and then in a vice. Marked the muzzle end of the pin with some black magic marker. Then used the Dremel and sanding wheel for maybe 15 seconds. Stopped to check my magic marker. Nothing there? Hmm, must have just buffed it off somehow because I couldn't have taken hardly any length off a stainless steel pin in that much time.

So I took the pin out of the vice and went over to check the measurement. Just to be safe. Yowza, it was suddenly only a little bit longer than the bent pin! I can't believe how fast it shrank! So I'm thinking my earlier theory is correct. The center pin is softer steel so this it is the part that bends or breaks rather than gouging the harder steel of the frame. Which also makes it easy to shorten.

I used my new file to smooth out the edges just a bit and then tried it in the gun. Went in easy. Cylinder closed easily. Locks tightly. Action works just the way it is supposed to. So I think this problem is licked and I can even consider it a learning experience.

Now I'm the happy owner of a _functional_ nickel M57 no dash 4" revolver!

Thanks for the help.

Gregg

 

[packrat2]

I think the FFL should let the buyer open the shipping box. I had a FFL rip open a rifle box that was sent to him for me to pick up and fill out the paper work. I never used that FFL anymore, I use one that holds the box so I can open it.....

 

[eyegots2no]

Did you try calling Smith????

 

[bigtubby]

Glad it worked out for you and you learned something in the process.