Should I get an aluminum J-frame?

[American1776]

There's a NIB no lock 442 at a LGS. There's also a few NIb 340 M&P scandium J frames with the lock.

I don't like reading all the reports of the frame cracks on the 442 airweight series. Seems like the Scandium ones don't crack.

Should I get the 442 with no lock (even though it might crack), or the 340 with lock?

 

[steelslaver]

I think any alloy frame is more apt to crack than any steel gun. But steel guns have been known to crack too. Model 19s are known to crack their steel forcing cones occasionally. But, it isn't a given in any of the steel or alloy guns that they will crack. If it does crack it isn't going to "blow up" just barrel will come loose. I have 3 alloy guns a 44 special L frame Scandium 396 and an 45 ACP 325NG. Neither has had a problem and both more powerful than a 38. I also have a as new pre model aluminum 38 body guard, I have never fired it. Not necessarily because I worry about it cracking, but, it was bought because I got a good deal on it, and if anything happened to it I would be out of luck and it was more of an investment.

Buying a new alloy frame gun means if it should crack S&W will replace it. If I was looking for a small caliber easy to carry gun, I would get one and not worry. If it happened to crack I would send it back.

 

[oink]

If this is going to be a low mileage safe queen that you fantasize will appreciate in value then go for the no-lock. If this is to be an every day gun that will soon show the nicks, dings and sweat damage from constant carry and use and get shot a fair amount then get the one with the lock and ignore the lock.

 

[Mrnurse]

Read up on the number of lock induced failure over the past years...VERY VERY FEW...some due to Goober induced gun smithing. For me I dont care 1 way or another.

 

[Flyingfool]

The scadium models are known for punishing recoil. So while it won't break. It also may be absolutely no fun to shoot and you will own a gun that you may not want to shoot.

The 442 is inexpensive enough and is itself light enough where many people find it less than comfortable to shoot. But given the same ammo will be better than the scadium "equivent" model. So it may be more comfortable to shoot, less expensive and if it does crack, S&W warranty will take care of it.

If it were me, I'd get the 442 and not look back. But....I am NOT you!

 

[rich5674]

Just my 2c

I have a 360J (scandium 38spl) and just bought and waiting on delivery a 442 Performance Shop. Going by GunBroker prices, the 340 is double the price. I don't think it's double the gun. The 442 is a hugh seller, there are bound to be a few bad apples. If I got a bad one I think S&W will take care of it. The 442 Performance shop tuned no lock is available from Tanners for $329. I bought mine in person and checked for barrel canting. The tuned trigger is noticeable, the one or two ounce difference is not. If you gotta have 357 the 340 is it. Shoot one in 357 before you buy it. +P 158 gr 38 Spl is my limit. The 442 is rated for unlimited use of it.

 

[Narragansett]

Well, you mentioned J frames, but both lightweights. I would look for an older model 36 or an older model 60. The 60 being stainless. I am not a fan of lightweight aluminum or alloy guns, but that is just me

 

[murphydog]

I would get the 442-1 (current S & W rebate is $30, but only until 9/2/2018) and not worry about it. Alloy J frames do crack but you hear about them on the Forum in much larger proportion than in the real world. Kind of like the expensive weight loss diets that show someone losing 100 lb. in three months, with the disclaimer "results not typical, yours may vary" in small print at the screen bottom .

Good luck in your decision.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

Only if you want one.

 

[27 Man]

My 1982 vintage model 38 developed a crack recently. I contacted S&W customer service and they sent me a mailing label with the understanding that it would be repaired or replaced—even though it is 36 years old and made long before the life time warranty went into effect. My new 638 arrives Monday. It will have that silly lock but I am not complaining.

 

[colt_saa]

Absolutely Scandium frames crack

Smith and Wesson lightweight frames have been cracking in that exact spot for more than half a century.

In terms of how many have been manufactured vs. how many have cracked, the percentage of cracked ones is tiny.

The difference is that in the 1950s, 60s, 70s, etc. The stories of cracked frames were told over a cup of coffee after a day at he range.

Today we have the Internet where every little incident can go viral on multiple firearms discussion Forums

Buy the gun you want, if it ever cracks let the factory replace it

 

[Denver Dick]

I have a 442-1 (the no-lock version) that I purchased at a LGS in 2016. I examined it carefully before buying it. I checked the timing, end-play, lock-up and overall fit and finish. Everything was great, if it had not been so, I would have passed. I fire only standard loaded ammo in it. I know it's rated for +P, but I see no reason to shoot that ammo in an alloy frame J frame unless necessary. If I was going to carrying it, I would shoot standard ammo, and finish off the session with 5 rounds of the ammo I was carrying (Speer 135gr Gold Dot short barrel +P).


Bottom line is to put the effort in on the front end of the deal, i.e., spend some time closely examining the revolver for fit, finish and timing before you buy. I don't care what the manufacturers say for marketing purposes, use +P ammo in small alloy frame .38s very, very sparingly. By the way, well before the frame cracks it will probably stretch creating excessive end-play. JMHO.

Five rounds of Winchester White Box, 130gr FMJ ammo

 

[haywood]

I like my 442s. I shoot them regularly. Carry them all the time. I never had frame cracking. I would get the no lock 442.

 

[Old cop]

I've owned and shot the alloy J frames for 50 years and never had one crack. My EDC is the no-lock 340PD and it's no fun to shoot but great to carry. We only see info about j frames w/problems but there are millions out there running fine w/o any problems. Personally I don't care for the lock so my choice here would the the 442.

 

[hostler]

Neither of the guns you mentioned really "collectable" guns. They are utilitarian guns meant to be used and carried. There's no sentimental value so in the off chance they would crack just send it in for replacement.
I recently bought a 442 to replace my old steel frame 60. The 442 is noticeably lighter in the pocket but in a waistband holster I can't tell the difference.
I guess my point is, if you are going to pocket of ankle carry get a lightweight alloy and deal with cracks as you have to, if you are going to carry on your waist buy an older (or new) steel j frame.
Matter of fact I may go back to carrying my old 60 on my waist and reserve the 442 for pocket carry. The older 60 has a trigger like butter and it just feels like quality compared to the new 442.

 

[HorizontalMike]

No Scandium

I vote NO Aluminum, or its knock off! They get ugly fast! And there is nothing you can do about the coating.

FWIW I have now replaced my 642 carry for a 2in K6S with a steel frame. The K6S is only 23oz fits in the same holster and I do not notice any difference other than increased accuracy...

 

[RGVshooter]

I just sent my 7 month old 642 back to S&W yesterday due to corrosion or pitting on the inside of the frame next to the firing pin bushing. I only ran around 700-800 rounds thru the gun and it looks like I ran 8k rounds. In a way, I'm kinda hoping S&W tells me it's unrepairable so I can exchange it for a different pistol.

 

[TomkinsSP]

You should buy what YOU like, not what others say you should buy. But for me nothing beats steel (M640 or M40, M49, M36, M60), the extra heft is a benefit, just get a good holster.

 

[ken158]

An aluminum J frame is not a safe queen candidate but it is probably the best pocket handgun you can have. Buy it, shoot it until you are comfortable with it and carry it. IF sometime in th4 future, you do get the "crack" just send it back and you will likely get a new one in return. What could be easier?

 

[Buford57]

A 642 has been my primary EDC for about 4 years. I have belt carried it twice, while on extended road trips. The remainder pocket carry in a Galco horsehide. There is a little wear on sharp edges of the top strap and yoke. About what I would expect on a blued gun. It has no lock and needs none.



I practice with 148 gr WC loads and finish with 135 gr. GDHP +P short barrel, which is my carry load. The +Ps are not pleasant to shoot. I expect they would be less pleasant to be shot with.

If it ever cracks I will buy another one. If I ever use it to defends myself and it is confiscated, I will buy another one. If it ever falls overboard while I am fishing, I will buy another one. If my wife appropriates it as her carry gun, (as she did my RM380)...well, you get the picture.