KneverKnew
Member
You know the little bump on the left side of receiver frame that keep the cylinder from sliding too far back when it's open? What's that part called? If it gets damaged, is it possible to replace it and how?
Simple question: what’s that little thingy called?
- Thread starter KneverKnew
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
"Frame Stud" or Cylinder Frame Stud" Usually if it gets worn, you can peen it back up with a flat punch and a few taps on the forward face with a hammer.
As to replacing it, I believe it's pressed in, so you'd need an arbor press.
As to replacing it, I believe it's pressed in, so you'd need an arbor press.
rincar
Member
I think it is possible to replace. But you need special tools and eguipment to replace it. I have read that that part is pressed into the frame. So I would guess that the gun would have to go back to the S&W factory or other High end gun repair facility
StrawHat
Member
I replaced one on a Model 28-2 that I customized. I called it a frame lug. It was a press fit and an arbor press made quick work of it.
Part #29 in the parts schematic.
29
Frame Lug
Kevin
Part #29 in the parts schematic.
29
Frame Lug
Kevin
Smith & Wesson 10-1 Revolver Parts, Schematics | Numrich Gun Parts
# 29
I have installed one with a brass drift and a ball peen hammer. I have also tapped one out to the left and dressed it down when the lug has gotten worn down.
# 29
I have installed one with a brass drift and a ball peen hammer. I have also tapped one out to the left and dressed it down when the lug has gotten worn down.
If it's a scandium frame you might be out of luck.
StrawHat
Member
Thank you for the link to the schematic. I could not get it to post.
I started to use a drift and ball peen hammer but the neighbor had an arbor press. Pressed it out and the new one in right smartly. I have since moved so the next one will be hammered into place
Kevin
StrawHat
Member
On the new and improved frames the lug is forged as part of the frame. Not sure about the scandium or others.
Kevin
Marshal Tom
Member
Had that happen on a scandium J frame years ago where the cylinder would bypass it, all the way back to the grip. Sent it to the mother ship and it could not be repaired. They gave me a new M&P 340 in exchange.
"----new and improved----"
I heard an interesting definition of that phrase not too long ago-------"Not yet proven to be defective".
Ralph Tremaine
I need one for an M frame. Anybody got one or know where I can get one?
StrawHat
Member
Guy,
When I needed one for the conversion I did, I made it from a piece of round stock and turned it for a press fit. Not positive but I believe the M frame is a pressed lug not a threaded one so I think that would work for the M frame also.
Kevin
41 Roadmaster
Member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2020
- Messages
- 183
- Reaction score
- 455
My wife asks me that question all the time. Now I know what she's talking about.
OP
KneverKnew
Member
How about a nickel plated for an old k frame?
That's great, Kevin. But, I don't have a machine shop or machinist background. And, I don't have access to one. The lug on my Ladysmith is worn to the frame. I have no way of measuring how large to make the external cylinder stop. If someone would remove their frame lug from a pristine Ladysmith and send me the dimensions 
, I would be extremely grateful. I'm not holding my breath. 
, I would be extremely grateful. I'm not holding my breath.
Just try peening it up. Jim (Hondo44) recommended that for mine and it worked.
Edit: just saw your post above. Yes, you'd need a sample to get the measurements. Else, You can press yours out and have a welder add material to make the "lip". I can get you the lip height off one of mine, if you want it. PM me.
Last edited:
StrawHat
Member
^^^^^
delcrossv,
You should be able to use a set of calipers to get the dimension from your frame lug without removing it.
Kevin
delcrossv,
You should be able to use a set of calipers to get the dimension from your frame lug without removing it.
Kevin
That's the plan. Just need height off the frame. I just have to pull one out.
Hope this helps: It's off the 3rd model shorty, but they should all be pretty similar.
Last edited:
OP
KneverKnew
Member
Is it normal, if the pistol is tipped up slightly, such as when ejecting spent shells, for the cylinder to bind on the frame when it slides backwards to engage the frame lug, so that it won't freely swing inward to closed position? Thus, necessitating having to tip the pistol downward slightly so the opened cylinder moves forward on the yoke just slightly to clear the frame and swing closed unobstructed?
OP
KneverKnew
Member
If the pistol is nickel plated, how will that affect trying build up material on the face of the lug with a welder?
Press out stud, weld , fit , plate, reinstall.
I wouldn't advise doing any welding in situ.
Oracle
US Veteran
According to Numrich my 629-6 has the part, number 29. Numrich even has a picture of the part but I must be blind, I can't see anything that looks like it. Would someone please post a photo of where the part is?
S&W integrated the cylinder stop stud into the frame with the 629-5 model in 1997. It is a vertical ridge along the lower right corner of the cylinder window and is no longer a removable/replaceable part.
OP
KneverKnew
Member
Press out stud, weld , fit , plate, reinstall.
I wouldn't advise doing any welding in situ.
Thank you. I've heard several here say they reinstall with hammer and punch instead of press. How much force would be required to hammer back in? Is there a chance of re-marring the part just from reinstallation?
You should be using a brass drift. I use an 8 oz. ball peen hammer and small, light taps.
FWIW, I just had a problem with what is called the "cylinder stop" on my Dan Wesson 15-2. It is press fit into the frame, but I had thought it was machined as part of the frame.
It had drifted out so it was too high. It interfered with the extractor so it would not move if the cylinder was in just the correct orientation.
Very puzzling until the DW forum named the part for me and told me the fix.
It had drifted out so it was too high. It interfered with the extractor so it would not move if the cylinder was in just the correct orientation.
Very puzzling until the DW forum named the part for me and told me the fix.
Oracle
US Veteran
Thank you sir! Your explanation and the photo in the Delcrossy post nailed down exactly what was being discussed. The exploded diagrams are great but the offhand side can leave one guessing.
Small arbor presses are available from Harbor Freight etc. They are really simple and work for lots of things.
