Hi All, Am helping my buddy (who does not live in same town as myself) learn to reload. He has a Winchester lever action for 30-30. I use all bolt guns and only neck size. Does he need to full length resize for the lever action, or can you get by with neck sizing only. I did a search, but did not find specific lever info. Thanks.
Sizing for lever action rifle
- Thread starter SW Gun Guy
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Yes, lever guns must be full length resizing. I would strongly suggest crimping as a seperate step as 30-30 can be prone to crushing at the neck due to the thin brass. Trimming to a uniform can also reduce this.
Lenny_D
Member
I would recommend full lenght sizing.
venomballistics
Member
full length sizing ... a lever gun doesn't have the camming action of a turn bolt.
WHO CARES
Member
Full length sizing every time will seriously shorten your brass life. This is especially true with a lever action like the 94 where there is likely to be some spring in the action upon firing. Basically you are heading for a case head seperation problem.
Try partially resizing a fired brass and then test it by dropping the empty brass into the chamber. If it falls in freely then you have sized enough.
One of the most important aspects of loading for the typical 30-30 lever is uniform case length (as mentioned above.) If your brass are of varying length you will be unable to get a consistent and proper crimp. You will run into no crimp on short brass and bulging in the neck of long brass. This can be frustrating as the bulged brass won't chamber and the ones without crimp may allow the bullet to slide back into the case.
It may take a little testing but by getting your sizing die set correctly will give more satisfying results.
ward
Try partially resizing a fired brass and then test it by dropping the empty brass into the chamber. If it falls in freely then you have sized enough.
One of the most important aspects of loading for the typical 30-30 lever is uniform case length (as mentioned above.) If your brass are of varying length you will be unable to get a consistent and proper crimp. You will run into no crimp on short brass and bulging in the neck of long brass. This can be frustrating as the bulged brass won't chamber and the ones without crimp may allow the bullet to slide back into the case.
It may take a little testing but by getting your sizing die set correctly will give more satisfying results.
ward
Verify the case length on each resized case. I have had 30-30 brass grow .035" in length between fired and resized. Cartridge neck stuck in the rifling is not a pretty sight when you pull the trigger.
buck460XVR
Member
Because of the nature of the lever action, cases fired with max or near max loads tend to get stretched when the bolt flexes. For this reason, many times brass used in such loadings have short life anyway.
I also recommend full length sizing.
Curt Blunt
Member
I haven't had a 30-30 in years but when I did I sized the brass just enough to chamber it. I don't recall crimping but then most of the bullets I used were lighter that did a job on jack rabbits.
Yes, full length re size,Also trim to length. In the old days when I started reloading for my 30-30 Model 94 {1954} IMR 3031 was the powder to use. Hornaday bullets were the best then. Today there are many more choices both powder & bullets. I still own my Herter's press & the 30-30.
An Old Ranger
Member
Whole heartily agree on the full resizing and trimming every time. As some had stated, this cartridge is well known to be thin and will stretch and wear out quickly. Have loaded this round for years and also the .32 Spl., a similar round. When reforming 30-30 brass into .32 Spl., it was very critical for me to stay in the specs.
The only levergun I have now is in my old favorite, the 45-70. Even with a stright walled case, I trim everytime I reload. Some may say this is not needed, but nearly 50 years of loading tells me different!
A thought on crimping that wasn't mentioned. The use of the Lee Factory Crimp die. This has been a blessing for both myself in the big bore and my partner who loads the 30-30. It uses a collet style system and will be more forgiving when crimping. Gives a solid neck grip and crimp is so adjustable it is a valued tool in my loading. Well worth the cost of the die in my opinion. Groups show a tighter pattern and the MV has less of a shot to shot spread.
Wade
The only levergun I have now is in my old favorite, the 45-70. Even with a stright walled case, I trim everytime I reload. Some may say this is not needed, but nearly 50 years of loading tells me different!
A thought on crimping that wasn't mentioned. The use of the Lee Factory Crimp die. This has been a blessing for both myself in the big bore and my partner who loads the 30-30. It uses a collet style system and will be more forgiving when crimping. Gives a solid neck grip and crimp is so adjustable it is a valued tool in my loading. Well worth the cost of the die in my opinion. Groups show a tighter pattern and the MV has less of a shot to shot spread.
Wade
Full size, oh yeah, no doubt. Brass life should not be your concern for this type of action.
BR,
Guy -
BR,
Guy -
thndrchiken
Member
Rule of thumb is to full length size for lever guns, my M94AE in 307 win has such a loose chamber that when I first started reloading and had my crimp improperly set I crushed a case and it buckled just beneath the shoulder. The buckle was about 1/16" and the buckled case still chambered easily. I'd say try rechambering a fire formed case, if it chambers easily then neck size and trim, chamfer and deburr and work up your load.
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