small rifle primers in a pistol round?

Douglas Haig

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Well I'm flush with SR primers and have just a few SP left. Anyone ever try to use a SR in a pistol cartridge?
 
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I haven't bought SP primers in years. I started using SR primers about six years ago and have had no problems.

This has been discussed before - at length.

The SEARCH function is there for a reason.
 
Today I bought 4 thousand Rem 7 1/2 bench rest small rifle primers. Would there be any difference in those vs the Rem 6 1/2 primers? I never thought of using the small rifle in small pistol, and I can't find any small pistol primers locally.
 
On first thought it would seem not to be a good idea. SR would seem to be much hotter than SP since it has more powder to ignite.
But if it works for ya'll?
 
Be careful the hotter ignition will increased pressure, also rifle primers are harder and may not go off if you have a short firing pin or weak spring.
 
Originally posted by Redhawk1:
Be careful the hotter ignition will increased pressure, also rifle primers are harder and may not go off if you have a short firing pin or weak spring.

A poster on another forum decided to test the "hotter/higher pressure" theory, as it sounded plausible. His chrono showed a whopping four (4) FPS increase going from SP to SR primers.

SR primers use thicker cups, which is what makes them harder. It is also what makes them a good choice for high pressure handgun loads, like 9x23, .38 Super and .40 S&W. It was probably the "race gun" shooters who hit on the idea, as blown primers were a common problem with their Super loads (hence the term "Super face").
 
Originally posted by Amici:
Originally posted by Redhawk1:
Be careful the hotter ignition will increased pressure, also rifle primers are harder and may not go off if you have a short firing pin or weak spring.

A poster on another forum decided to test the "hotter/higher pressure" theory, as it sounded plausible. His chrono showed a whopping four (4) FPS increase going from SP to SR primers.

SR primers use thicker cups, which is what makes them harder. It is also what makes them a good choice for high pressure handgun loads, like 9x23, .38 Super and .40 S&W. It was probably the "race gun" shooters who hit on the idea, as blown primers were a common problem with their Super loads (hence the term "Super face").

Don't let the low fps increase fool you about pressure. Velocity does not blow up your gun, pressure does.

Increasing pressure does not give you more velocity. Please do some research before posting such information.
 
I didn't mention it in my earlier post, but Remington 6-1/2 primers are only for the .22 Hornet, have thinner cups, and have lower pressure than other small rifle primers.
 
Originally posted by Redhawk1
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on't let the low fps increase fool you about pressure. Velocity does not blow up your gun, pressure does.

Increasing pressure does not give you more velocity. Please do some research before posting such information.

Odd - all these years I thought it was the PRESSURE of the expanding gases which created the VELOCITY of the exiting projectile.

This is not to say that the pressure CURVE is not an issue; obviously it is. A rough indicator of that is flattened primer cups, but it IS a rough indicator.

That said, I've done it for years, including compressed loads, without a ka-Boom. Naturally, ALL such experiments should be undertaken with care and by starting low and working up.

Naturally, anyone taking advice off an internet forum does so at his/her own peril and with full assumption of the risks therein.
 
In loading .38 Super and 9x23, I use nothing but small rifle primers, to prevent primer flow and piercing at high pressurs.
 
Odd - all these years I thought it was the PRESSURE of the expanding gases which created the VELOCITY of the exiting projectile.
High pressure is no indicator of higher velocity. There are times where an increase in powder charge will result in lower velocities. The pressure created by Bullseye may be excessive for a certain velocity in comparison to a slower powder producing the same velocity.

However, the available energy in small pistol primers is very close to the energy available in small rifle primers.

Here's a chart of primer energies from Speer #7.

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In some cases it is required. I have always used SR primers in my 357 Maximum reloads as suggested in most loading manuals. This is especially true when using powders that are hard to ignite such as H-108, H-110 and W-296.
 
Originally posted by Amici:
Originally posted by Redhawk1
icon_biggrin.gif
on't let the low fps increase fool you about pressure. Velocity does not blow up your gun, pressure does.

Increasing pressure does not give you more velocity. Please do some research before posting such information.

Odd - all these years I thought it was the PRESSURE of the expanding gases which created the VELOCITY of the exiting projectile.

This is not to say that the pressure CURVE is not an issue; obviously it is. A rough indicator of that is flattened primer cups, but it IS a rough indicator.

That said, I've done it for years, including compressed loads, without a ka-Boom. Naturally, ALL such experiments should be undertaken with care and by starting low and working up.

Naturally, anyone taking advice off an internet forum does so at his/her own peril and with full assumption of the risks therein.

There is more to it than just pressure to increase velocity. Sorry we just don't agree.
 
Pressure (under the curve) is related to velocity. There are limits of course, but saying pressure and velocity are unrelated is incorrect.

Agreed. It's probably better to say maximum pressure and velocity are not necessarily related, and it's the maximum pressure that leads to KBs.
 
Originally posted by FlyFish:It's probably better to say maximum pressure and velocity are not necessarily related, and it's the maximum pressure that leads to KBs.

Indeed.

Dare I mention that THIRD factor; the direct correlation between plastic and dreaded "energetic disassembly?"

This can be expressed as mathamatically as:
> % PC (Plastic Content) = > % kB.
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I load nothing but small rifle primers in 40 S&W. the cup IS thicker but I can not tell any difference between wsp and wsr. I had more rifle primers so I used them . this is with light loads in a gun, kimber, with original mainspring. again, cup is thicker for higher pressure of rifle load so a weak mainspring would be a problem. do not try this with large primers.
 
Rifle primers are taller than pistol primers. The primer pockets are deeper in rifle cases. About 30 years ago I tried using rifle primers in 357 mag loads. The primers were sticking out enough to bind the cylinder on a stainless blackhawk revolver.
 
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