Smith 638 "alternative to .380's

"Near 100%?" If you are serious that it is only "near 100% reliable," then that revolver is defective and should be sent to S&W for repair. There is absolutely no excuse for an S&W revolver to be anything less than absolutely and fully reliable 100% of the time with proper ammunition. No exceptions. No excuses.

I have a hard time believing you meant "near 100%" as opposed to meaning "100%," but I see posts on here about failures to fire, and it always makes me wonder.
No: Nothing natural or man made item is 100%, now you do not have to wonder anymore. You can fire what ever number of rds YOU need for a revolver to be reliable, and ten minutes-ten hours-ten days from now your hammer spring could break, it will not work. I had a mag in a Sigma that appeared fine as I loaded it, after cleaning it. It went into the gun, rd chambered, topped off, I got in the car and drove. Approx 1 hr later it started raining 40 cals onto the floor, base plate cracked , broke and left go. 100% is a strong statement and simply cannot occur. Be Safe,
 
I love my M36 but my shot placement is much better with my Sig P238 at 7 yds. I shoot buffalo Bore +P in both. The 38 special packs a bigger wallop but my grouping is better with the 380. I choose placement over mussel energy.
 
I shoot my 442 better than the BG380, P3AT and the other .380s (AMT, Taurus,etc) I have owned in the past....and it gets better as the distances increase vs the Elsie Pea types.
More power to those with small .380 or 9x19 autos that work well, but my experience keeps me with the J frame.
8a961543a2920f71f307b6c341f42e77_zps7469a646.jpg
 
This fella is some kind of sharp shooter. This is the winning target for July Internet Snubby match.

David



QUOTE=Waywatcher;138032584]That hammer is the opposite of bobbed--it has a spur. Bobbed is when the spur (for thumb cocking) is cut off.

I am still not convinced that single action is a worthwhile endeavor on a snubby, though:

10 rounds, offhand, at 7 yards using my defense ammo. DAO.

They're nice little snubbies and I sure wouldn't trade mine for any .380.:)[/QUOTE]
 
^^ that's good shooting, and perfectly do-able with even DAO snubbies.
My LCR and 442 are going out tomorrow for some range work, I'll have to try the postal match.
 
The grips he has are the new Houge grips for S&W J frames. The grips are a tad higher up the back strap frame but can be trimmed off.
 
They are Hogue. They are only for the Centennial (and new polymer Bodyguard) because they cover the entire backstrap. (There's a plastic insert for the Bodyguard; it's not used on Centennials.) That cutout on the bottom is the polymer butt cap. In addition to helping that part of the butt avoid catching on cloth, it is also what holds the rubber onto the grip frame. It's an ingenious design, lightweight, and has no hardware.

I especially like them because they cover the entire backstrap--allowing a high hold--and provide just enough room for a pinky--they stick out 0.41" below the frame.

I use Pachmayr Compacs for the same reasons: covered backstrap, higher hold, and a place for a solid grip with the little finger. Gives much better control of a Centennial J.
 
Have always liked the 638. Nice size for pocket carry, can be fired single or double action, reliable, and a good caliber. The larger and heavier 649, in .357, isn't a bad choice either.
 
a fine pocket protector the 638. i like many, have a 442. with the lil guns i have never felt the need for single action. i'm no expert, but i doubt i'd even think to use single action in a self defense type situation...
 
My daily carry right now is a 642-1. I liked it so much that today I bought a 638 to go with it. Probably never use it in single action but I like having the option. Both are excellent revolvers and are good choices for anyone looking to carry a snubby. I wish to add that the single action feature may prove very useful in honing in learning to deal with the short sight radius on the snubby, a useful training tool if you will.
 
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No mechanical device....

"Near 100%?" If you are serious that it is only "near 100% reliable," then that revolver is defective and should be sent to S&W for repair. There is absolutely no excuse for an S&W revolver to be anything less than absolutely and fully reliable 100% of the time with proper ammunition. No exceptions. No excuses.

I have a hard time believing you meant "near 100%" as opposed to meaning "100%," but I see posts on here about failures to fire, and it always makes me wonder.

Realistically, NO mechanical device is immune to failure. That said, A model 10 that has been proven to perform for the owner, along with some checks of ammunition to make sure a high primer or something doesn't prevent feeding, is about as close to 100% As you can get.
 

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