Smith and Wesson post war M&p value
- Thread starter porkchop8u
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porkchop8u
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chiefdave
US Veteran
A little high. Looks refinished with aftermarket grips. Would make a good truck/glove box revolver.
With finish and grips, you are at the max dollars. Have to agree, great truck gun.
Absalom
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Politely put, the lighting in the photos is horrible 
I honestly can't tell whether it's refinished. The cylinder looks original, other parts not so much. If so, it was a long time ago. There is corrosion on the trigger and in some other spots.
On the other hand, as has been said, if you're just looking for a truck gun or a shooter, the nice Pachmayrs are a plus, and if it's mechanically sound, 250 for a fully functional classic M&P would be acceptable.
PS: From what I can read of the serial on the cylinder face, it's an S 829-something, which would make it 1946.
I honestly can't tell whether it's refinished. The cylinder looks original, other parts not so much. If so, it was a long time ago. There is corrosion on the trigger and in some other spots.
On the other hand, as has been said, if you're just looking for a truck gun or a shooter, the nice Pachmayrs are a plus, and if it's mechanically sound, 250 for a fully functional classic M&P would be acceptable.
PS: From what I can read of the serial on the cylinder face, it's an S 829-something, which would make it 1946.
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DWalt
Member
My opinion is also that it's probably a 1946 shipment. $250 is an OK price. Not too difficult to find correct Magna grips if you are so inclined.
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porkchop8u
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Thanks for the info guys. Seller said he had some wood grips to include if he finds them. If I get it, it will be a shooter. If I like it I might put a duracoat or something on it after a clean up.
If you want to own a genuine M&P , $250 is a seemingly good opportunity. That said , the refinish prep which resulted in the rounded edges on the side plate , hence the "not tight" look to the seam , would be tough for me to accept. Personally , I'd look for a worn but original finished specimen.
If the function is good , and you like it , your call. Someone here could possibly find a link to one of those threads on evaluating a used revolver - lock up , end shake , bore condition - all that. That one would have to pretty darned good mechanically to warrant $250 , considering the refinish.
Short answer : Ok deal? Maybe.
If the function is good , and you like it , your call. Someone here could possibly find a link to one of those threads on evaluating a used revolver - lock up , end shake , bore condition - all that. That one would have to pretty darned good mechanically to warrant $250 , considering the refinish.
Short answer : Ok deal? Maybe.
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porkchop8u
Member
just an update,
I picked it up and it doesn't look as bad as the pictures made it but it's still needs some cleaning up. serial # is S8299##. does that still put in around 1946? from my quick googling I've found they made less of these S prefix serial #'s. by the condition of this it is NOT a collector gun. does putting a refinish on this seem like a bad idea ? I don't want the few bare spots to rust as this will be a car gun but I guess I can always trade it to someone who want an older M&P. what do you all think?
I picked it up and it doesn't look as bad as the pictures made it but it's still needs some cleaning up. serial # is S8299##. does that still put in around 1946? from my quick googling I've found they made less of these S prefix serial #'s. by the condition of this it is NOT a collector gun. does putting a refinish on this seem like a bad idea ? I don't want the few bare spots to rust as this will be a car gun but I guess I can always trade it to someone who want an older M&P. what do you all think?
Check under those rubber grips...... they can trap moisture and be a rust magnet......over the years I've seen a lot of nice guns with rust on the concealed grip frame.
1946 would still have the pre-war long action??????
1946 would still have the pre-war long action??????
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It is a long action by the SN and the shape of the visible part of the hammer; the short action introduced the "speed hammer".
I would use a very light polish on the exterior (Renaissance Pre-Lim is a good one) and wax it to prevent rust on the worn surface areas. Refinishing a nice 90% original blued gun would not be something I would do. Good luck in your decision.
I would use a very light polish on the exterior (Renaissance Pre-Lim is a good one) and wax it to prevent rust on the worn surface areas. Refinishing a nice 90% original blued gun would not be something I would do. Good luck in your decision.
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porkchop8u
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porkchop8u
Member
Looks like it went back twice,in 1963 and 1974?. Hope everything is OK under the rubber and I agree that it should be gone, especially if you are going to leave it a vehicle. For others looking at a revolver with one-piece rubber grips, make sure you have the owner remove them before considering purchasing the gun.
I had to chuckle with your comment of someone wanting an "older gun". I only own three K frames newer than WWII, so to me that is a newer gun. Since it has likely been refinished at least twice, one more time won't make much difference. Check out the guts of that revolver to make sure that the past owner(s) at least took care of the inside mechanism, since they apparently did not care much about the outside. Maybe it was a police carry revolver??
I had to chuckle with your comment of someone wanting an "older gun". I only own three K frames newer than WWII, so to me that is a newer gun. Since it has likely been refinished at least twice, one more time won't make much difference. Check out the guts of that revolver to make sure that the past owner(s) at least took care of the inside mechanism, since they apparently did not care much about the outside. Maybe it was a police carry revolver??
mrchuck
Member
Go shoot it.
If you like it, then keep it.
Revolvers make great house guns because when awakened and your not clear-headed,,they are easy to use.
If you like it, then keep it.
Revolvers make great house guns because when awakened and your not clear-headed,,they are easy to use.
Absalom
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
A documented factory re-finish isn't nearly as bad for the collector value (such as it is, which isn't that much) as an undefined commercial job.
I still would like to see a picture in natural light, but it does not look that bad, and generally, you'll never get the time and effort (if DIY) or money back that you put into a refinish unless you're positive you'll keep and cherish the gun for the rest of your life
I'll join the general tenor: Clean it up and keep it clean and oiled, and it should survive you (no matter your age group).
I still would like to see a picture in natural light, but it does not look that bad, and generally, you'll never get the time and effort (if DIY) or money back that you put into a refinish unless you're positive you'll keep and cherish the gun for the rest of your life
I'll join the general tenor: Clean it up and keep it clean and oiled, and it should survive you (no matter your age group).
What is stamped on the upper left side of the backstrap? The finish on that gun does not look factory to me. The factory would not have rounded the sideplate seam, IMO. I believe it was refinished after the factory worked on it. This may have been a hard working LEO or security company gun at one time or even a cowboy's gun. Nevertheless, it is probably worth $250. I've seen worse sell for more. If you decide not to recoat it, get some Strike Hold CLP and treat the metal. You can store it underwater after that and it won't rust (check out their YT videos).
Guy, that is why I said at least two refinishes have been done. It looks like numbers, but believe it could also be heavy grinding or pit marks as they also appear on the left side of the front. I forgot to note the stamp in the rectangle should be the standard R - B signifying repair and/or refinish in blue.
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ABPOS
Member
I wouldn't duracoat the beautiful revolver.
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