Smith&Wesson 686-6 maintenance, storing, and cleaning

[tramblygoat]

Further points

I should have wrote 'side plate' and not 'slide plate'.

As someone else has already mentioned 'stoning' is not the local night life in the Middle East but rather the fine polishing (not removal) of the release points concerning the trigger. This is a fine science in itself and should be reserved for those who have more experience rather than new-commers to revolvers.

I also mention as someone else has already done that checking the screws to see they haven't slackened off is necessary. There are two screws in particular that often seem to slacken. The one on the side plate furthest forward that is connected to the cylinder crane and the other is the forward screw on the rear sight - not sure why that screw likes to come slack. On some of my guns I will use loctite on my screws but for my revolvers I haven't gone down that route yet. Someone else may wish to add his/her thoughts on that.

The books mentioned are good to have but I find that some are not detailed enough and others are dated in their presentation - somber, b&w photos etc. For me the books may be worth it when you have increased your knowledge and wish to go further- just my opinion.

Regards, Mark

 

[Hopper]

FWIW, I recently began using Flitz Bore Cleaner on my stainless revolvers. Just a bit on a stiff nylon bristle brush does a fantastic job of getting burn marks off the cylinder face, removing crud around the forcing cone, and with a handful of patches, does a great job inside the cylinders and barrel as well. I then make sure all the excess is removed with a bit of Hoppe's, followed by a wipe-down with a gun oil wipe, and final drying with a micro fiber towel. I must say, the Flitz bore cleaner makes cleaning a snap, I use this instead of the lead-free gun cloths now.

 

[typicallcplkim]

Thank you all for the input, again. I can't express how helpful this all is, despite acknowledging that everyone has different way of approaching this topic.

 

[typicallcplkim]

Taking a very fine Arkansas stone and polishing certain surfaces *if* the trigger is not smooth. I've not needed to do this for any K, L or N frame I own, and I have about a dozen of them.

If this is your first revolver, and you are inclined to take it apart, buy this book first: The S&W Revolvers - A Shop Manual - New Expanded 5th Edition - 2014: Jerry Kuhnhausen: 0638056730086: Amazon.com: Books

The only revolvers I have that needed some trigger work were my j-frames.

I clicked on the link to find a 1,000 hand book. I may have had money to buy a 686 but that was saved up over 3 years haha. Regardless, I appreciate the advice and references!

Edit: I just found the paperbacks for $40. I withdraw my last statement.

 

[Pef]

I clicked on the link to find a 1,000 hand book. I may have had money to buy a 686 but that was saved up over 3 years haha. Regardless, I appreciate the advice and references!

Edit: I just found the paperbacks for $40. I withdraw my last statement.

Whoa! I just saw the Buy Used for $1,131!!!! Yeah, buy new for $42, definitely. Or I'll sell you my used copy for $500, and you can "save" $600 on the buy used option.

But back on topic - if you revolver has a smooth trigger pull, I would not bother taking the sideplate off. Or at least wait until you read up and watch a lot of videos. There is even a particluar way to take the sideplate off (tapping the grip crosswise with the handle of a hammer until the sideplate pops off, it should never be forced off).

Revolver maintenance is very easy - no tear downs. Just clean what you can with Hoppes, wipe, and oil. If they were meant to be disassembled frequently, they'd have a take down lever or something like that.

You can pretty much lube what you need without taking the sideplate off - just apply oil in the hand window, trigger, hammer area, etc.

Since you are new to revolvers, I'll also give you some advice you may already know. Don't be offended if you do know; a young guy I know that has had revolvers for several years did the following and I cringed - he flicked a revolver closed after loading the cylinder.

Don't flick a revolver closed or opened. This can result in warped yoke or misaligned cylinder.

I quickly told the guy that flicked my gun closed to never do that, as it could damage the gun. He honestly did not know that flicking could damage the revolver over time.

 

[typicallcplkim]

Whoa! I just saw the Buy Used for $1,131!!!! Yeah, buy new for $42, definitely. Or I'll sell you my used copy for $500, and you can "save" $600 on the buy used option.

But back on topic - if you revolver has a smooth trigger pull, I would not bother taking the sideplate off. Or at least wait until you read up and watch a lot of videos. There is even a particluar way to take the sideplate off (tapping the grip crosswise with the handle of a hammer until the sideplate pops off, it should never be forced off).

Revolver maintenance is very easy - no tear downs. Just clean what you can with Hoppes, wipe, and oil. If they were meant to be disassembled frequently, they'd have a take down lever or something like that.

You can pretty much lube what you need without taking the sideplate off - just apply oil in the hand window, trigger, hammer area, etc.

Since you are new to revolvers, I'll also give you some advice you may already know. Don't be offended if you do know; a young guy I know that has had revolvers for several years did the following and I cringed - he flicked a revolver closed after loading the cylinder.

Don't flick a revolver closed or opened. This can result in warped yoke or misaligned cylinder.

I quickly told the guy that flicked my gun closed to never do that, as it could damage the gun. He honestly did not know that flicking could damage the revolver over time.

Oh boy, sounds like an awesome deal !

But yes, I did already know that, and no I'm not offended because I completely understand. Sometimes basic knowledge isn't as common as people would think. I appreciate it though!

 

[typicallcplkim]

Also. Any ideas on how to clean the area inside the hammer? I've read up some things that say never to leave solvent on the internals or really the weapon at all. Only a thin layer of oil should be applied.

I'm just hesitant on taking a brush with solvent and scrubbing it because I feel like solvent would just leak into the internals.

https://photos-3.dropbox.com/t/2/AA...ZYGXV7cgMuwox726vs?size=1600x1200&size_mode=3

The area around the firing pin looks dirty. Like it looks like ts starting to rust. With orange streaks and all. The weapon is clear.

 

[Pef]

Also. Any ideas on how to clean the area inside the hammer? I've read up some things that say never to leave solvent on the internals or really the weapon at all. Only a thin layer of oil should be applied.

I'm just hesitant on taking a brush with solvent and scrubbing it because I feel like solvent would just leak into the internals.

https://photos-3.dropbox.com/t/2/AA...ZYGXV7cgMuwox726vs?size=1600x1200&size_mode=3

The area around the firing pin looks dirty. Like it looks like ts starting to rust. With orange streaks and all. The weapon is clear.

Sorry, I cannot access the picture. But to answer your question, I usually take a q-tip, apply oil, cock the hammer back, and lightly wipe the internals. Very very light coat, and I don't necessarily do this with every cleaning.

I'm sure some others have better ways, but this one has worked for me for years.

Best,
Pef

 

[pesty3782]

I bought my first 686 when I was 21 and still have it at 52. It was my first duty weapon at work. No need to clean that revolver every few weeks if you don't shoot it. My friend who shoots his 66 all the time cleans it once every 6-7 months or when you can't tell it is stainless. Shoot good ammo and wipe it down when you are done. No need for a full detail cleaning every time. I have seen more damage done to guns by people "cleaning" them than shooting them

Tony P

 

[ankona]

No need to clean that revolver every few weeks if you don't shoot it. My friend who shoots his 66 all the time cleans it once every 6-7 months or when you can't tell it is stainless. Shoot good ammo and wipe it down when you are done. No need for a full detail cleaning every time. I have seen more damage done to guns by people "cleaning" them than shooting them

Tony P

Beat me to it. Shoot it and enjoy it. For me after range time it gets a quick wipe down and a bore snake pulled through the chambers and bore. I shoot FMJ reloads.

 

[kbm6893]

Beat me to it. Shoot it and enjoy it. For me after range time it gets a quick wipe down and a bore snake pulled through the chambers and bore. I shoot FMJ reloads.

Me too. My semi autos get a quick relube and wipe down, but revolvers don't need that. I clean them after I shoot them. I do take them out of the safe frequently to fondle them and wipe them with a silicone rag before putting them back in the safe.

 

[typicallcplkim]

Another question.... So my 686 is a stainless. I just watched this video and the video and comments seem so conflicting, i wanted ask on here. I understand everyone has different methods and products they use. And i know not everyone on youtube knows what they are doing and niether are they professionals...but I used hoppes #9 to clean and hoppes oil. I leave a thin coat of the oil on the weapon as I wipe it down with a towel. Am i doing this wrong?

Also. Is the solvent and oil that Im using corrosive to stainless? After reading a guys comment that he put some oil on and left it in safe and pulled it out again to see it eaten away got me worried. I most likely will be doing long term storage as well if that changes answers...

 

[pesty3782]

This will all depend on where you live and store the weapon. I live on the "left" coast near the ocean, but keep my guns in a safe with a heat rod inside for moisture. I do wipe my guns down with either FP-10 or slip 2000 before a long storage. I have also used a silicone rag and have never had an issue. Even while in the rain and sea salt air at work a wipe down with silicone rag and they are good to do...stainless will rust if not taken care of but not like a blue steel gun.

Tony P

 

[Carrier]

Also. Any ideas on how to clean the area inside the hammer? I've read up some things that say never to leave solvent on the internals or really the weapon at all. Only a thin layer of oil should be applied.

I'm just hesitant on taking a brush with solvent and scrubbing it because I feel like solvent would just leak into the internals.

https://photos-3.dropbox.com/t/2/AA...ZYGXV7cgMuwox726vs?size=1600x1200&size_mode=3

The area around the firing pin looks dirty. Like it looks like ts starting to rust. With orange streaks and all. The weapon is clear.

How about using something other than Dropbox. Not everyone can access it.

 

[typicallcplkim]

Sorry, ive been meaning to repost that picture.

Hopefully this is accessible....

Edit: the photos came out smaller than I thought...

 

[johnnywitt]

Like others have said, a Lead free cloth will really help with getting the crud off of cylinder face and forcing cone on SS Revolvers.

Also, to protect your Muzzle Crown and accuracy, I wouldn't clean from the muzzle with a Rod & I would puchase a quality rod like a Dewey. Then, unscrew the brush to insert the rod & then re-attach jag & pull it through like a bullet from the forcing cone out & then re insert the rod & repeat. Sometimes you have to shorten the brush if you're using one for it to screw on. If you have a leaded barrel, use some 100% copper Chore Boy Dish Scrubbers and put a small amount around a brass .243/6mm bore brush and then pull it through your barrel. Letting the barrel sit overnight with some Kroil in it will help to let the Kroil penetrate under the lead and it will sluff off the rifling. THIS IS FOR Center Fire GUNS ONLY!!! RF Guns have delicate rifling and I would't do this with a RF.

With .22, I NEVER use a Cleaning Rod IN THE BORE only in the cylinder IF necessary. Just cut a piece of normal diameter Weed Wacker Line with wire cutter at an angle so its sharp enough to spear a .22 patch on & take a flame and melt a ball on the other end of your line to hold the patch on and clean your barrel by pulling that through your barrel and cylinders. On a SS Gun you can chuck up a brass brush on a drill and clean your cylinders out quick as well.
Again, on the Airweights I wouldn't use a power tool or a Brass Brush, only Nylon Bore Brush in Cylinders & work carefully by hand. That and a Stiff Nylon Gun Toothbrush for the Forcing Cone & underneath the extractor with some M-Pro 7 or the CLP of your choice.
I know you only have the .357 now, but you will buy more guns after that, I bet.

Good Luck!

 

[typicallcplkim]

Does using a bore brush to get lead/carbon off anywhere on the weapon (stainless) damage it?

 

[johnnywitt]

Does using a bore brush to get lead/carbon off anywhere on the weapon (stainless) damage it?

A brass bore brush won't hurt the cylinders or bore on a steel frame gun. I wouldn't use one of those stainless brushes though. If you can let the chemical do the work and use a nylon bore brush and toothbrush I would do that though.
The Stainless Guns will scratch fairly easy. Surprisingly so, corrode as well if you don't stay on top of them and live in a salt climate. Again, that Eexoz CLP is super good for wiping down your guns and preventing rust.
Everybody has there own methodes for cleaning though. It's hard to say what's best. lots of ways to skin a cat.

 

[typicallcplkim]

A brass bore brush won't hurt the cylinders or bore on a steel frame gun. I wouldn't use one of those stainless brushes though. If you can let the chemical do the work and use a nylon bore brush and toothbrush I would do that though.
The Stainless Guns will scratch fairly easy. Surprisingly so, corrode as well if you don't stay on top of them and live in a salt climate. Again, that Eexoz CLP is super good for wiping down your guns and preventing rust.
Everybody has there own methodes for cleaning though. It's hard to say what's best. lots of ways to skin a cat.

Yeah, I used it this morning to get some residue off the trigger and hammer and it came right off. at first a brownish color came off and i hoped I wasnt damaging it.

 

[markmodel10]

So, unfortunately, it's going to be in the dresser for alot of it time

I hope you have some sort of gun rug or sock to store it in. Maybe some one with more knowledge can suggest something.