Smith&Wesson 686-6 maintenance, storing, and cleaning

[kbm6893]

Beat me to it. Shoot it and enjoy it. For me after range time it gets a quick wipe down and a bore snake pulled through the chambers and bore. I shoot FMJ reloads.

Me too. My semi autos get a quick relube and wipe down, but revolvers don't need that. I clean them after I shoot them. I do take them out of the safe frequently to fondle them and wipe them with a silicone rag before putting them back in the safe.

 

[typicallcplkim]

Another question.... So my 686 is a stainless. I just watched this video and the video and comments seem so conflicting, i wanted ask on here. I understand everyone has different methods and products they use. And i know not everyone on youtube knows what they are doing and niether are they professionals...but I used hoppes #9 to clean and hoppes oil. I leave a thin coat of the oil on the weapon as I wipe it down with a towel. Am i doing this wrong?

Also. Is the solvent and oil that Im using corrosive to stainless? After reading a guys comment that he put some oil on and left it in safe and pulled it out again to see it eaten away got me worried. I most likely will be doing long term storage as well if that changes answers...

 

[pesty3782]

This will all depend on where you live and store the weapon. I live on the "left" coast near the ocean, but keep my guns in a safe with a heat rod inside for moisture. I do wipe my guns down with either FP-10 or slip 2000 before a long storage. I have also used a silicone rag and have never had an issue. Even while in the rain and sea salt air at work a wipe down with silicone rag and they are good to do...stainless will rust if not taken care of but not like a blue steel gun.

Tony P

 

[Carrier]

Also. Any ideas on how to clean the area inside the hammer? I've read up some things that say never to leave solvent on the internals or really the weapon at all. Only a thin layer of oil should be applied.

I'm just hesitant on taking a brush with solvent and scrubbing it because I feel like solvent would just leak into the internals.

https://photos-3.dropbox.com/t/2/AA...ZYGXV7cgMuwox726vs?size=1600x1200&size_mode=3

The area around the firing pin looks dirty. Like it looks like ts starting to rust. With orange streaks and all. The weapon is clear.

How about using something other than Dropbox. Not everyone can access it.

 

[typicallcplkim]

Sorry, ive been meaning to repost that picture.

Hopefully this is accessible....

Edit: the photos came out smaller than I thought...

 

[johnnywitt]

Like others have said, a Lead free cloth will really help with getting the crud off of cylinder face and forcing cone on SS Revolvers.

Also, to protect your Muzzle Crown and accuracy, I wouldn't clean from the muzzle with a Rod & I would puchase a quality rod like a Dewey. Then, unscrew the brush to insert the rod & then re-attach jag & pull it through like a bullet from the forcing cone out & then re insert the rod & repeat. Sometimes you have to shorten the brush if you're using one for it to screw on. If you have a leaded barrel, use some 100% copper Chore Boy Dish Scrubbers and put a small amount around a brass .243/6mm bore brush and then pull it through your barrel. Letting the barrel sit overnight with some Kroil in it will help to let the Kroil penetrate under the lead and it will sluff off the rifling. THIS IS FOR Center Fire GUNS ONLY!!! RF Guns have delicate rifling and I would't do this with a RF.

With .22, I NEVER use a Cleaning Rod IN THE BORE only in the cylinder IF necessary. Just cut a piece of normal diameter Weed Wacker Line with wire cutter at an angle so its sharp enough to spear a .22 patch on & take a flame and melt a ball on the other end of your line to hold the patch on and clean your barrel by pulling that through your barrel and cylinders. On a SS Gun you can chuck up a brass brush on a drill and clean your cylinders out quick as well.
Again, on the Airweights I wouldn't use a power tool or a Brass Brush, only Nylon Bore Brush in Cylinders & work carefully by hand. That and a Stiff Nylon Gun Toothbrush for the Forcing Cone & underneath the extractor with some M-Pro 7 or the CLP of your choice.
I know you only have the .357 now, but you will buy more guns after that, I bet.

Good Luck!

 

[typicallcplkim]

Does using a bore brush to get lead/carbon off anywhere on the weapon (stainless) damage it?

 

[johnnywitt]

Does using a bore brush to get lead/carbon off anywhere on the weapon (stainless) damage it?

A brass bore brush won't hurt the cylinders or bore on a steel frame gun. I wouldn't use one of those stainless brushes though. If you can let the chemical do the work and use a nylon bore brush and toothbrush I would do that though.
The Stainless Guns will scratch fairly easy. Surprisingly so, corrode as well if you don't stay on top of them and live in a salt climate. Again, that Eexoz CLP is super good for wiping down your guns and preventing rust.
Everybody has there own methodes for cleaning though. It's hard to say what's best. lots of ways to skin a cat.

 

[typicallcplkim]

A brass bore brush won't hurt the cylinders or bore on a steel frame gun. I wouldn't use one of those stainless brushes though. If you can let the chemical do the work and use a nylon bore brush and toothbrush I would do that though.
The Stainless Guns will scratch fairly easy. Surprisingly so, corrode as well if you don't stay on top of them and live in a salt climate. Again, that Eexoz CLP is super good for wiping down your guns and preventing rust.
Everybody has there own methodes for cleaning though. It's hard to say what's best. lots of ways to skin a cat.

Yeah, I used it this morning to get some residue off the trigger and hammer and it came right off. at first a brownish color came off and i hoped I wasnt damaging it.

 

[markmodel10]

So, unfortunately, it's going to be in the dresser for alot of it time

I hope you have some sort of gun rug or sock to store it in. Maybe some one with more knowledge can suggest something.

 

[shootbad]

lead removing cloth really works but I just gave up. it's not worth the effort