Snapped head off sight screw!

willy

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Shooting model 29 with scope..Shoot 4 shots and on the 5th shot the scope went flying..
The head of the screw that also is of the screw in the top strap that holds the factory sight on snapped off even with the top strap..
So how do I get the screw out now?
 
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There is a lot that can go wrong trying to remove that screw.
Is it a blind hole or is it a newer 29 where the topstrap is drilled through?
The latter will be easier to deal with.

Oh, was the screw locktighted in place?
 
Off the cuff response would be a very small left-hand threaded drill bit, a good drill press and drill press vise and a very careful eye and hand.

That would be the easiest route. You might also try a screw extractor if you don't have or can't easliy find a left-hand threaded drill bit.
 
If this a newer post 1993 ?? S & W the size of the screw would be #6-48. Means a body diameter of 0.138 inch, or pretty darned small. Finding an extractor or drill for an extractor may not be easy. In addition drilling a hole about 0.080 inch in diameter usually means using a Micro Drill Chuck, something that can be found at a Machine Shop supply but they are NOT cheap. BTW a Micro Drill Chuck is a sliding chuck that is mounted in a standard chuck in a Lathe or Drill Press/Mill. What is special about this type of chuck is that it's mounted to a precision sliding quill and allows you to used pure finger pressure to feed the drill as you are drilling. Because tiny little drill bits are incredibly easy to snap if you apply too much feed pressure.

So I would recommend trying the easy way. Which is only "easy" when compared to drilling a 0.080 inch hole using a hand drill. What you need to do is ues a "prick punch" to rotate the screw by putting the point towards the outside of the visible break and tap tap tapping it in a circular fashion to rotate the screw out of the hole. If the screw isn't badly deformed and seized in the hole this can be an easy way to walk a screw stub out of a hole. Tools in this case would be to use a common sewing needle as the prick punch and a small bit of brass or steel as the hammer. If you have a small triangular file that would work well as a hammer. Just remember Lefty Lucy. If you are over 35 I would also recommend a magnifying visor or a pair of 3.0 diopter Reading Glasses.
 
Don't start with a drill, move slow with a few hand tools and the gun firmly held in a vise. I've removed many screws, and only used a drill on one of the first few, and that made a mess out of that time !

A hard, very sharp scribe is what I use. No hammer is usually needed and can actually make things worse. Place the point where it might dig in best, like a jagged area in the screw surface, at about a 45 degree angle. Lightly tap it, see if it moves, if it does, tap again and repeat going around counter clockwise. Don't smack it and don't hurry. In place of a hammer I would start with something like the side of an open end wrench, a 5/8 inch wrench is about the right heft, the flat surface of the wrench helps because you don't have to aim as precisely as say a tiny tac hammer, this way you can war to the screw.
This all might sound odd but its worked for me on screws smaller than what your dealing with up to screws as large as my finger, the force is scaled up on the larger screws obviously.
 
So I would recommend trying the easy way. Which is only "easy" when compared to drilling a 0.080 inch hole using a hand drill. What you need to do is ues a "prick punch" to rotate the screw by putting the point towards the outside of the visible break and tap tap tapping it in a circular fashion to rotate the screw out of the hole. If the screw isn't badly deformed and seized in the hole this can be an easy way to walk a screw stub out of a hole.

I would try with a small screw driver(like the ones for glasses)

If you can get a little bite it may come right out.
 
There is a lot that can go wrong trying to remove that screw.
Is it a blind hole or is it a newer 29 where the topstrap is drilled through?
The latter will be easier to deal with.

Oh, was the screw locktighted in place?

Blind hole model 29-3..And yes it was locktite in..
 
Got it out,, ,
Tried the taping it with a scribe ,,screw driver and could not get a bite on it..
Ended up drilling it out on the drill press,,Now I need to tap the hole for a new screw..Thanks for all the comments.
 
Good for you!

The 29-3 were not factory drilled/tapped for scopes. So, when encountered, there can often be surprises by whomever did the work.
But, you're in the clear!
 
Glad you got it out. I am in the dark on what mount. B-Square? Front or rear screw? If the scope went flying what happened on the other screw that holds the mount on?
 
Glad you got it out. I am in the dark on what mount. B-Square? Front or rear screw? If the scope went flying what happened on the other screw that holds the mount on?

B-square rail..
My gun only has the front base screw and the rear sight elevation screw to hold it on..
And that little screw head on the front couldn't take the recoil.
 
B-square rail..
My gun only has the front base screw and the rear sight elevation screw to hold it on..
And that little screw head on the front couldn't take the recoil.

If you need to tap a hole to put the gun back in action, my thought might be to drill two more holes and tap them too. Then you could install a rail that uses the hole pattern used on current S&W revolvers. I have been satisfied with the Weigand Combat mounts, but if you go with the standard hole pattern, there are lots of options.

I looked at one of those B-square rails, and I wondered how it would hold up with a very light red dot on a small caliber gun. But for a 44 magnum, more substantial options might be worth considering.
 
If you need to tap a hole to put the gun back in action, my thought might be to drill two more holes and tap them too. Then you could install a rail that uses the hole pattern used on current S&W revolvers. I have been satisfied with the Weigand Combat mounts, but if you go with the standard hole pattern, there are lots of options.

I looked at one of those B-square rails, and I wondered how it would hold up with a very light red dot on a small caliber gun. But for a 44 magnum, more substantial options might be worth considering.
I have had a 2 1/2 x 7 Burris on my 29-2 since the 9Os with no problem. I took it off 2 months ago because I am in the market for trade for a 4 inch 29-4. There was a B-Square mount on the forum a coupe weeks ago for $25 shipped if you need one. I like the B-Square because there is no marks on the gun when you remove it. I tried a red dot but could shoot better with a scope.
 
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