So what did I get (model 19/29) related

leonidas211

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I recently Picked up 2 sw revolvers and would like some info from the experts here. The first is a model 29-2 n7258x. I put a few 44 special rounds through it today and I loved it. Paid 550 for it. One thing that concerns me is the cylinder on the 19 spins free and on the 29 it seems tight.

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The other is a model 19-4 91k3xxx (d18) are stamped on the cylnder swing out. Put light 38 loads and again loved it. I know nothing About revolvers but I am liking it more the the many semi's I have. I paid 550 for this.

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So can you guys give me some input. How can I learn more about my new pistols? Thank you in advance.
 
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I recently Picked up 2 sw revolvers and would like some info from the experts here. The first is a model 29-2 n7258x. I put a few 44 special rounds through it today and I loved it. Paid 550 for it. One thing that concerns me is the cylinder on the 19 spins free and on the 29 it seems tight.



The other is a model 19-4 91k3xxx (d18) are stamped on the cylnder swing out. Put light 38 loads and again loved it. I know nothing About revolvers but I am liking it more the the many semi's I have. I paid 550 for this.



So can you guys give me some input. How can I learn more about my new pistols? Thank you in advance.

Welcome to the forum. Just hang out here a while and read a lot of the related threads if you want to learn more. Asking specific questions generally gets positive response and most folks are patient, even after answering the same questions over and over - they realize new guys come in all the time and seek information that is supposed to be "common knowledge". "No stupid questions - just stupid answers" I was always told.

The cylinder on your 29 might be binding because of fouling on the cylinder face and/or barrel forcing cone, or debris under the ejector star; a more serious problem could be a mis-aligned crane from where some uninitiated in-duh-vidual "Bogarted" the cylinder closed by flipping it to the side violently slamming the cylinder shut like in a 'Sam Spade' movie. Sounds like you got the 29 for a very reasonable price. The stocks pictured on yours are from the later period and are not original to the gun.

Both guns are in a currently high-desirable configuration, as the 4" 29's and the 2.5" 19's are some of the most sought after these days. The price on the 19 would seem about right (some pay less, some pay more) and having the correct stocks (it does) makes it even better.

You'll find that by coming here it is easy to get enthused about all other calibers and models of S&W revolvers. That you are starting to like revolvers more than your semi-autos shows you have the beginnings of common sense and a taste for the finer things :D.

Unless you want to spend more than you'd planned and start to look at some of your semi-autos to determine which ones could be sold to buy more revolvers - RUN FORREST, RUN !:p
 
+1 on what NFrameFred said and also congratulations on the purchases and you got the the model 19 right at where the current market is price wise and you actually got the 29-2 at an excellent price because around here those would go for closer to $700 to $750.

On the Model 29-2 you should clean the extractor rod and around the forcing cone and the front of the cylinder to get rid of any carbon build up. The push the extractor rod back and clean that length of it and under the extractor star. The apply something like rem oil to the extractor rod and it should spin easier.

The easiest way if you have the correct screw driver is to take the screw out thats directly below the cylinder with the head on the right side. Then open the cylinder and slide it forward and the cylinder will come out. Then slide the cylinder off of the crane. This probably sounds complicated so if you aren't comfortable just cleaning the areas while assembled works to.

If you shoot a lot of 38's in a 357 magnum revolver or 44 specials in a 44 magnum revolver you will get carbon build up in the end of the cylinder chambers closest to the forcing cone. Enough build up will make it difficult to get the magnum rounds in the revolver. This is because the magnum rounds are longer and the carbon build up will imped them going in. So you need to give the chambers a through cleaning to remove the carbon build up.

Revolvers are great shooters and S&W revolvers can become quite addictive as some of us have found out
 
I also noticed Clint Eastwood slamming his cylinder shut in the target shooting scene with the murderous rookies in "Magnum Force." Granted, it looks cool, but does the weapon no good at all. One would think "Dirty Harry" would know better.
 
It might be my eyes, but that looks like a three inch model 19 to me, and if it is you got a really good deal on it. Can you post a picture of the left side, so we can see the length of the extractor rod?
 
I really appreciate the responses. I am new to this game but I'm really digging them. How do we know the grips on the 29 are not factory?

As requested here is a pic of the extractor on the 19.

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Obviously not a 3" 19.

As far as the grips on a 29-2, the correct grips would likely be 'football' dished targets instead of the later full cut-out specimens.

Must-have S&W's ? That would take up another whole thread with no doubt vigorous debate. But, IMHO, since you already have the "Queen of S&W's" in the model 29, some of the more unique offerings that many desire are hump backed Bodyguard 38's (J frame), model 58 41 mag (N frame - either love 'em or hate 'em, most love 'em), a 3.5" model 27 357 mag (N frame), a K22 or model 17 or the harder to come by 18 22lr (K frame) and the 34's or 63's - J frame 22's. And it's hard in these days of more liberal concealed carry laws not to want at least one or two Centennial configuration hammerless models.

Allowing that the above list is very small and leaves out at least one or two that anyone else who posts is going to protest not being included, that should be at least enough to start you down the road to the poor house and the dog house with the mizzus . . . .
 
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