So you're thinking about getting into casting...

novalty

Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
13,611
Reaction score
1,882
Location
Southern Maine
So you want to take reloading to the next level of savings. Casting is a natural additional to reloading as a hobby, and those looking to save additional money. I'm just a beginner at the hobby, so I won't be pretending to be an expert, nor did I sleep at a Holiday Inn last night.

You should read Glen Fryxell's "From Ingot to Target."

The biggest obstacle on casting your own bullets is having access to a supply of lead. The number one source for most casters used to be wheel-weights, but since a ban on them has been passed in many states--the supply has been dwindling. Other common sources are: roofers, chimney masons, sailboat scrap yards (lots of work), salvage yards, and online vendors like Roto-Metals.

When it comes to casting there are two traditional methods: ladle castings, and bottom-pour from a furnace. For bottom pour you can either use a heat source and pot, or purchase a melting pot. Several companies offer cast iron pots for casting: RCBS, Lyman come to mind, but you can also do it in a dutch oven-- Harbor Freight offers an inexpensive one for around $30. The most common heat source is a propane fish fryer--weight support is a critical factor to keep in mind choosing this method.

There are many manufacturers that offer ladles for casting lead: Lee, Lyman, RCBS, Saeco, and Rowell. Rowell ladles are held in the highest regard by ladle casters, for the unique bottom pour design--which prevent floating surface dross and contaminants from entering the mold cavities.

When considering bottom pour furnace there is a fair selection of different sizes and prices from Lee's Production Pot around $50, to RCBS Promelt around $300, and even more expensive options.

Molds come in many shapes, designs, materials, number of cavities, and ability to cast hollow-points. This is one of the best benefits for casting your own, being able to choose the bullet design you want. Below is a list of mold manufacturers in alphabetic order. Make sure you purchase the correct handles that fit the mold you are ordering, as they are not universal.

-Accurate Molds
-Ballisti-cast
-Hensley & Gibbs *Out-of-Production. Currently being produced by Ballisticast
-Hoch Custom
-Ideal *Bought out by Lyman
-Lachmiller *Bought out by RCBS
-Lee Precision
-Lyman Products
-Magma Engineering
-Modern Bond *Out-of-production
-Mountain Molds
-M-P Molds **Also known as Mihec
-NOE Bullet Moulds
-RCBS Engineering
-Saeco Precision

Mold handle Manufacturers: KAL, *Lachmiller, Lee, Lyman, M-P, RCBS, and Saeco. *Lachmiller molds require Lachmiller handles, or modification to other manufacturer handles.

Lubing bullets can be done in a variety of ways: pan lubing, using a lubra-sizer, powder coating. For sizing bullets, Lee offers a push-through-sizer that works with your reloading press, RCBS offers their Lub-a-matics, Lyman has their 45, 450, and 4500 series, Saeco has their Lubri-sizer, and the Magma Star Lube-sizer are considered some of the nicest. Accompany parts to go along with lube-sizer, minus Lee's, are punches for pushing the bullet, and sizing dies for shaving to the correct diameter.

Website(s) for additional information regarding casting:
-Los Angeles Shooting Club (A variety of articles pertaining to casting. Source provided by forestswin.)

Lead Disclaimer:
WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, or other reproductive harm.



**This thread is still a work in process. I'll be adding more info. and links on furnaces, ladles, molds, lubrasizers, pan lubing info.**
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
You'll learn more about casting, lubes & sizing reading Glenn's site. I always recommend it to any bullet caster.
 
Last edited:
The best tip I ever got was to make casting a two step process.

1. Smelt your 'raw' material to remove trash and mold it into ingots. This saves your casting pot from blockages due to junk getting into a bottom pour valve.

2. Take your 'clean' ingots and melt them in your casting pot, adding any Linotype or whatever else you want to blend into the melt.

Also, flux early, flux often.

Sean
 
Casting

Posts 1,2,3....all good info and advice......I started casting my own bullets back in the 70's and then took a hiatus from it for several years until last week.....I "accumulated" some of the most excellent Mi Hec moulds over the past year and last week spent four days running 200 lbs of lead thru my old Lyman and Lee pots into a variety of moulds, including a couple of the big brass Mi Hec creations....all intended for the 45 colt and 44 spl....it was snowing and raining here during that period, making it all that more enjoyable to be sitting inside next to a warm casting pot, listening to it hum and groan, and pouring and "throwing" big, shiny new bullets for my big bores.
Now to swage, lube and onto the loading bench we go.
 
Last edited:
Very informative, thank you for posting. And thank you for not calling them, "boolits"!!

And by the way, your post on reloading should be required reading for anyone who's interested in getting started!
 
By an inexpensive Lee mold for your first mold. You will probably ruin it before you cast 5000 through it but you will learn more about how to keep castings true during the process.
Get some good measuring tools and learn to use them. Be very discriminating on what is straight, even and out of your weight standard.
 
There is a certain satisfaction with the cost savings, heck, for example what's not to like about a box of fifty .45 Colt 270gr "real" Keith LSWC's at 950 fps for a bit under three dollars? But what I really like is having control over what bullets I shoot, the bullet I want, the diameter I want, the alloy I want and the lube I want. Zero bore leading in most handguns is a real bonus. The freedom of relying on others for your bullet supply is a real joy as well. I got lucky when I reentered the casting biz and got around 1,200 pounds of thirty year old wheel weights for free, that was a good start, been scrounging and buying lead ever since. If you like to hand load and don't mind the time involved casting your own is the next step.
 
The only way you save $$ casting your own is scrounging cheap or free lead. At more than $1/#, I am not casting my practice bullets. The time involved, even with good equip, is just not efficient. With a 4-6cav mold, Star sizer, you are doing about 2.5 solid hrs for 1000 bullets.
If you have a good supplier for cheap/free alloy, sure casting, even buying high end gear will save you an enormous amount of $$. At an avg of $80/K for bullets, doesn't take long to pay for even $1000 worth of gear. Shoot bigger more expensive bullets, cost savings is huge. I enjoy casting more than reloading but wouldn't do it if I had to buy all my alloy for much more than $1/#.
 
Last edited:
I got into casting about 3 weeks ago, I had been toying with the idea since I started reloading 3 years ago and finally decided to jump in. I've cast about 2500-3000 .38 158gr SWC's since, I tumble lube with lee liquid alox and run them through a lee .358 sizer. My go to load for my 1905 1st change is 3.0grs of Bullseye, and I get absolutely no leading with this load. I really have no intentions of buying more molds or casting for other calibers, but I do intend to buy a few more .38 spl revolvers.
 
I got set up due to the cost of 45-70s. I'm not sure every caliber is a money-saving deal or worth the hassle.

I do like being self-reliant and to be able to say I can do it if I need to.
 
There ya go, talkin' about saving money again. "Saving money by casting" is what you tell your wife when she sees the credit card bill...
 
I do not cast for cost savings. I cast so that I can have projectiles tailored to my needs and firearms. Modern machining and folks like Miah make that a pleasure these days

I may have missed it, but the one thing someone considering getting into casting should know is that this is NOT an indoor activity.

I cast on a screened in porch (they call it a Florida room down here), but the area need good ventilation.
 
I may have missed it, but the one thing someone considering getting into casting should know is that this is NOT an indoor activity.

I cast on a screened in porch (they call it a Florida room down here)...

That's great for you, Florida boy, but up here in the frozen tundra, we cast in our basements.

Don
 
That's great for you, Florida boy, but up here in the frozen tundra, we cast in our basements.

Don
Don,
Thanks for the kind words. However, I am not your BOY :)

It is because folks in cold regions might consider getting into casting that they should take into consideration the fumes produced from this hobby. I did not see that mentioned in the thread prior to my post.

While casting virgin lead does not release fumes by itself, certainly many of the various fluxing elements do release toxic fumes.

For the folks that might be recycling lead from various sources, there are many unknown items that will also create fumes as they are smelted into ingots. For example smelting hardened lead can release arsenic.

Since novalty has already recommended Glen's book, the issue of casting fumes as a danger is also mentioned there
 
I have been casting for a few years now and really enjoy it. I dropped a mess of 210 gr. .41s last weekend.

Tire stores are your friend when it comes to an affordable alloy source. Rejection will become an even closer friend, but the key is to never give up.

This is the remainder of my wheel weight stash (including stock car ballast, tub liners, and lead pipes) which took about two years to acquire from various local tire stores. And most of it was free or dirt cheap. Here are the pictures I took of the three loads it took when I relocated it to my bunker last summer.

stash1_zpse11dcb7f.jpg


stash2_zps92bbdb20.jpg


These are mostly ingots.

stash3_zps8e29ebf6.jpg



And here is the whole stash tucked away into the bunker.

stash4_zpsbf9bef3b.jpg
 
Back
Top