I love the feeling of doing it all on my own.
So you're thinking about getting into casting...
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novalty
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Updated original post, and added some links. Still a work in progress.
fredj338
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Don,
Thanks for the kind words. However, I am not your BOY
It is because folks in cold regions might consider getting into casting that they should take into consideration the fumes produced from this hobby. I did not see that mentioned in the thread prior to my post.
While casting virgin lead does not release fumes by itself, certainly many of the various fluxing elements do release toxic fumes.
For the folks that might be recycling lead from various sources, there are many unknown items that will also create fumes as they are smelted into ingots. For example smelting hardened lead can release arsenic.
Since novalty has already recommended Glen's book, the issue of casting fumes as a danger is also mentioned there
Flux with sawdust, only thing coming off that is wood smoke. I sat in my garage, smelt scrap on the patio.
Maximumbob54
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On a more serious note besides my joking above, I've found that her old shoe organizers make great mold storage for organizing. They are just big enough and heavy enough to hold the full mold with handles and the extra bits can be tucked in the back.
I set my pots up in front of the window in the garage. All the smoke and smell are pulled out by a 20 inch fan. I like this set up, I work out of the 20 pound pot while the 2 10 pound pots are melting the next mix. When the upper pots are clean and ready the lower pot is low enough and it pours right in, then the other 10 pound pot is ready so the process is repeated.
My bullets are dropped onto a shop rag held taught at a angle so they roll into a bucket of water with more shop rags set up so the hot bullets roll down rags in the water for a few seconds before hitting the bottom of the bucket. I think this keeps them from being deformed.
The process of water dropping takes a bit more time but makes the bullet a little harder. I mix range recovered lead with WW and when water dropped they come out about the same as straight WW.
My bullets are dropped onto a shop rag held taught at a angle so they roll into a bucket of water with more shop rags set up so the hot bullets roll down rags in the water for a few seconds before hitting the bottom of the bucket. I think this keeps them from being deformed.
The process of water dropping takes a bit more time but makes the bullet a little harder. I mix range recovered lead with WW and when water dropped they come out about the same as straight WW.
Starting bullet casting
The new caster must have a source of cheap / free lead ! ! ! ! !
If you can't find scrap lead cheap there isn't much savings. Dirt berms at outdoor ranges are a good source of cheap lead. Use 2" x 4" lumber for a wood frame (mine is 2 feet wide x 6 feet long) and firmly attach wire screen to the bottom. 1/4" opening size works good for quick screening, but you will lose the 22 LR bullets.
Melt your range scrap into clean ingots, then cast bullets from the clean ingots. I use an old Chinese wok made from stamped steel to melt range scrap. All the other information in this post is excellent advice. Experience is a tough teacher when starting to cast bullets.
The new caster must have a source of cheap / free lead ! ! ! ! !
If you can't find scrap lead cheap there isn't much savings. Dirt berms at outdoor ranges are a good source of cheap lead. Use 2" x 4" lumber for a wood frame (mine is 2 feet wide x 6 feet long) and firmly attach wire screen to the bottom. 1/4" opening size works good for quick screening, but you will lose the 22 LR bullets.
Melt your range scrap into clean ingots, then cast bullets from the clean ingots. I use an old Chinese wok made from stamped steel to melt range scrap. All the other information in this post is excellent advice. Experience is a tough teacher when starting to cast bullets.
Leslie Sapp
Member
One of the things I like about casting is this:
I used to see nice old guns in weird, obsolete calibers and pass on them because I knew I'd never be able to afford ammo for them. Now, I often have the appropriate molds already and it's simply a matter of finding or adapting a set of dies for that caliber and presto, I'm in business!
I used to see nice old guns in weird, obsolete calibers and pass on them because I knew I'd never be able to afford ammo for them. Now, I often have the appropriate molds already and it's simply a matter of finding or adapting a set of dies for that caliber and presto, I'm in business!
fredj338
Member
Yes, if you are removing the dross each time. If you flux & leave the dross, go as often as you like. I flux heavily, remove the dross, when making ingots. Then when adding clean ingots to the casting pot, I just stir with a wooden stick & leave everything on top. I stir every time I add a new ingot or two.
Maximumbob54
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Coming back again, I again have to say at this point this has nothing to do with savings.
It's just fun being able to say, yeah, I made these...
You just bought yours...
It's just fun being able to say, yeah, I made these...
You just bought yours...
Lead processing
I have a old plumbers" salamander", propane. I melt all my lead
outside in cold weather and cast into ingots. I am lucky to live
in area where lead and tin can be got for free. A lot of guys don't
realize that it is not available in ares that didn't have a lot of
heavy industry. I just got load of sheet lead from a hospital X-ray
room redo. How much, I don't know but put bed of 3/4 ford to
bottom of springs. I use tool stamps to mark ingots as to what
kind of lead they are. If unknown I stamp J for junk which is the
harder alloys, use. As is for wadcutters for target loads.
I have a old plumbers" salamander", propane. I melt all my lead
outside in cold weather and cast into ingots. I am lucky to live
in area where lead and tin can be got for free. A lot of guys don't
realize that it is not available in ares that didn't have a lot of
heavy industry. I just got load of sheet lead from a hospital X-ray
room redo. How much, I don't know but put bed of 3/4 ford to
bottom of springs. I use tool stamps to mark ingots as to what
kind of lead they are. If unknown I stamp J for junk which is the
harder alloys, use. As is for wadcutters for target loads.
I love the feeling of doing it all on my own.
Do I see projectiles cast from H&G moulds #7, #50, and #107? Sure looks like it. If so, congratulate yourself on having three very desirable sets of blocks!
No the 107 is a Lee 208gr 44
The 50 & 7 were hand made by a local machinist, shooter who recently passed. His kids may sell his stuff someday and if so he had so many odd things it would be amazing to see them all. He would make the molds on a lathe.
The 50 & 7 were hand made by a local machinist, shooter who recently passed. His kids may sell his stuff someday and if so he had so many odd things it would be amazing to see them all. He would make the molds on a lathe.
OP
novalty
Member
It's just fun being able to say, yeah, I made these...
You just bought yours...
MB, are these 44's? I've been looking for a similar design for 38/357.
I've been casting now for a little while (3 decades) & I can truly say casting is a hobby itself. Used all kind of molds over the years and still do, anything from lee's to the original cramers. Bullet design/performance is more important to me than the name brand of the mold.
That being said, the better mold command more $$$ but they also hold their value and will actually increase in $$$ over time. The other thing about quality molds is they tend to cast quality bullets. I've thinned the herd or the last decade, wasn't using allot of them so I sold them off & used the $$$ to buy others. Look at molds as an investment, not only will they provide you with some of the best bullets on the plant (bar none). They will actually increase in value over time paying you to use them. Some of the molds/bullets I own and shoot.
Allot of those bullets are excellent quality/designs like the 3 to the left in the to row are all h&g molds (41/50bb/50). Or the 3rd from the left in the 3rd row is an ultra rare cramer hp. Another ultra rare cramer mold is the far right bullet in the 4th row. The 2nd bullet in the 3rd row (lyman 429422) is also extremely rare, I only know of 5 of them to exist today & I own 2 of them. The ness bullet (3rd bullet-5th row) are rare as it the 2 eagan bullets (8th & 9th bullet-6th row) and the cramer solid point/hollow point 2-cavity mold (4th bullet-6th row) is ultra rare.
I'm pointing these bullets/molds out because these are the types of molds/bullets to look for. You can use them as long as you want & sell them for your asking price within minutes of posting them for sale.
The hp & hb molds are a hoot to cast/shoot and the ability to cast and test the different designs arainst each other is priceless.
And yes, paper patching and swaging bullets go hand in hand with casting.
I felt the same way when I 1st started casting bullets back in the 80's. Didn't have much $$$ but I started anyway & slowly built up a collection of molds. 30+ years later I'm still casting/learning & enjoying a hobby I love.
That being said, the better mold command more $$$ but they also hold their value and will actually increase in $$$ over time. The other thing about quality molds is they tend to cast quality bullets. I've thinned the herd or the last decade, wasn't using allot of them so I sold them off & used the $$$ to buy others. Look at molds as an investment, not only will they provide you with some of the best bullets on the plant (bar none). They will actually increase in value over time paying you to use them. Some of the molds/bullets I own and shoot.
Allot of those bullets are excellent quality/designs like the 3 to the left in the to row are all h&g molds (41/50bb/50). Or the 3rd from the left in the 3rd row is an ultra rare cramer hp. Another ultra rare cramer mold is the far right bullet in the 4th row. The 2nd bullet in the 3rd row (lyman 429422) is also extremely rare, I only know of 5 of them to exist today & I own 2 of them. The ness bullet (3rd bullet-5th row) are rare as it the 2 eagan bullets (8th & 9th bullet-6th row) and the cramer solid point/hollow point 2-cavity mold (4th bullet-6th row) is ultra rare.
I'm pointing these bullets/molds out because these are the types of molds/bullets to look for. You can use them as long as you want & sell them for your asking price within minutes of posting them for sale.
The hp & hb molds are a hoot to cast/shoot and the ability to cast and test the different designs arainst each other is priceless.
And yes, paper patching and swaging bullets go hand in hand with casting.
I felt the same way when I 1st started casting bullets back in the 80's. Didn't have much $$$ but I started anyway & slowly built up a collection of molds. 30+ years later I'm still casting/learning & enjoying a hobby I love.
Thank you Novalty
I take my hat off to you Novalty!!!
Thank you for providing people with information about a hobby that they can enjoy for the rest of their lives.
I know casting has taught me about bullet designs, lubes & alloys along with how they perform or fail. Taught me how to make hp & hb pins, gas check makers & swaging dies along with looking at reloading equipment differently trying to find different uses for it rather than their intended purposes.
Casting truly is a worth while hobby to get into. Once you get past the cost or I don't save $$$$ mindset, the real question becomes.
What price can or do I put on the knowledge I've learned from casting/reloading cast/swaged bullets?
To me that knowledge is priceless & I believe Novalty feels the same way or he wouldn't be doing threads like these.
Again,
Thank you for taking the time to do yet another excellent thread!!!!
I take my hat off to you Novalty!!!
Thank you for providing people with information about a hobby that they can enjoy for the rest of their lives.
I know casting has taught me about bullet designs, lubes & alloys along with how they perform or fail. Taught me how to make hp & hb pins, gas check makers & swaging dies along with looking at reloading equipment differently trying to find different uses for it rather than their intended purposes.
Casting truly is a worth while hobby to get into. Once you get past the cost or I don't save $$$$ mindset, the real question becomes.
What price can or do I put on the knowledge I've learned from casting/reloading cast/swaged bullets?
To me that knowledge is priceless & I believe Novalty feels the same way or he wouldn't be doing threads like these.
Again,
Thank you for taking the time to do yet another excellent thread!!!!
Maximumbob54
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That's the Lee .45 Colt / .454 Casull mold. They do have a similar one for .44 magnum that's the C430-310-RF which is funny because the .45/.454 mold is a 300gr mold. But it has that same wide flat nose meplate. Keep that mold hot and the lead hotter because by the time that cavity fills it can be tricky to get it to fill out fast enough.
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