Some general questions about handloading

I generally never load to anywhere near the suggested maximum load simply because if I've done it right I've worked up to my accuracy load well before that. I reload to stretch my budget not handgun frames. As others have stated if you need more power, buy a more powerful handgun, or step up to a rifle.

To a point this is true, but why buy a 300winmag & run it at 308 vel for pure accuracy? Just get a 308, but then you might load that down to a 30-30.
Agree, get a bigger gun instead of making your smaller gun unsafe trying to make it a bigger gun. I bought a 10mm to run max loads; 200gr bullets at 1200fps+. If i wanted to run 180gr @ 1000fps, i would just shoot a longer bbl 40.
 
To a point this is true, but why buy a 300winmag & run it at 308 vel for pure accuracy? Just get a 308, but then you might load that down to a 30-30.
Agree, get a bigger gun instead of making your smaller gun unsafe trying to make it a bigger gun. I bought a 10mm to run max loads; 200gr bullets at 1200fps+. If i wanted to run 180gr @ 1000fps, i would just shoot a longer bbl 40.

You are right, but perhaps we're missing the point of not going full out maximum. I don't load my rifles to maximum either, but that doesn't mean I download them heavily. I never ran my 220 Swift loads to full balls out power, but then again, I never downloaded them to 223. My 25-06 loads were never trying to break records, but then again, they weren't 257 Roberts grade plinkers, either. I think the problem here is the either/or logical fallacy, there is a miscommunication that if I don't push my 375 H&H to 53,000 CUP, I must be shooting lead bullets at 18,000 CUP turning my Safari rifle into an overgrown 38-55, without a broad spectrum in between.

Comes down to the fact that a less than max 300 Winchester Magnum is still way hotter velocity wise than a .308. You don't need to scrounge every last bit of performance to have a great performing load in some cases, and in some people's estimates, they will get better accuracy out of their loads by backing off a tiny bit. Running a 300 Win Mag with loads around 48,000-50,000 CUP instead of 54,000 doesn't mean you are trying to turn your magnum into something else, perhaps its where your guns are shooting best, perhaps you don't need the last bits of velocity, or other reasons.

There's nothing wrong with running safe max reloads, and I remember you saying you've had good success with both accuracy and case longevity before, Mr. fredj338, and on that you are absolutely right. Beyond that, its best to tell the new reloaders to not be brave and test the waters, or else they might get to 'smart" for their own good, and do something they will regret. Being cautious is not a bad thing in reloading, and especially for those who don't need the performance, shying away from max is not a terrible thing. The last issue would be the fact that reduced loads can lower pressures enough to help extend the life of brass, no matter how good or bad your reloading setup is on them.

Working up max loads is not bad, but it is something that people should do after they know what they are doing, know why they want the performance, know the dangers, the benefits, and everything else. Surgeons don't just jump into heart surgery the first day they hit medical school, and taking cartridges to limits is something that someone with their first rock chucker and box of primers and powder should not be worrying about, when there is so much to concentrate on learn on first.
 
There are and the most reliable pressure indicator for the ***me' handloader is the CHRONOGRAPH.

There simply aren't.

Now, if you're getting heavier-than-expected recoil, stuck cases, or flattened primers, that's a pretty good sign that you should stop and figure out why. It's not necessarily a pressure issue. You can have flattened primers from excessive headspace, for instance, or stuck cases from a balky extractor or poor belling and crimp.

If you've loaded a cartridge to the max of its book data, and haven't seen any of those symptoms, that doesn't mean you can go further. It simply means that you haven't generated the absurd pressures needed to produce those signs. You can still be well over the cartridge's design max. The powder can still be producing pressure spikes.

Same deal with the chronograph results. Suddenly seeing a non-linear relationship between charge increases and velocity gains isn't a good thing. In other words, if adding .5 grains consistently increases velocity by 50 fps, and all of a sudden it only gets you another 25 fps, that's not a good thing.

If you reach the limit of book data and don't see non-linear velocity gains, that doesn't give you permission to keep going.
 
Working up max loads is not bad, but it is something that people should do after they know what they are doing, know why they want the performance, know the dangers, the benefits, and everything else. Surgeons don't just jump into heart surgery the first day they hit medical school, and taking cartridges to limits is something that someone with their first rock chucker and box of primers and powder should not be worrying about, when there is so much to concentrate on learn on first.

And we agree. There is just a lot of never do this or that being tossed around & it just isn't that black & white.
 
There are and the most reliable pressure indicator for the ***me' handloader is the CHRONOGRAPH.

Well sort of. Since a chrono doesn't tell you pressure, you have to understand the data being presented to you. Since your gun is NOT the gun tested in the data, you can NOT try to match vel & call that a safe load. As noted, you should be able to plot a relationship of charge wt to vel increase. When that changes, either a spike in vel or a flat spot, something is going wrong & you need stop there & even back off a bit. When you get pressure signs like extractor marks, heavy bolt lift or extraction, severe flattened primers, you have already crossed the threshold.
 
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