Some restoration on a special model 10

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My ex BIL Kenn (known affectionately as Catman) and I were very close in the 70’s -80’s. When he’d returned from Viet Nam, I was a youngster in my mid teens. We quickly bonded as our mutual love of trout fishing drew us together in a very special way. Many weeks long trips to the UP of MI over the years created memories that will last my lifetime.

The relationship grew through his diagnosis with MS, many lingering affects of PTSD, agent orange exposure, and a number of related complications. My sister and Kenn divorced in the 90's and he moved to Florida with a new wife. We kind of lost touch and he sadly passed away from related complications about 17 years ago. I still share stories with my son of our fishing trips while we sit around campfires in the UP on the banks of various trout streams. I type this with tears in my eyes ....

Fast forward to this morning as I was over at my sister's getting ready to help her move into a new house. She asked if I would take Kenn's revolver that had been sitting in a drawer for decades. I remember seeing it 40+ years ago but didn't even remember what it was (way before I started collecting them). Turns out it was a model 10-8 wearing some butt ugly Goodyears.

Couldn't wait to get it home and have spent the last few hours cleaning it up. From the pics below you can see some surface rust and its overall filthy condition. After a serious cleaning, some Renaissance wax, and a set of wood stocks (I know, not era correct), I love it. Will cherish this old revolver and think of those memories every time I touch it.

Some before and after pics .......

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I believe it’s late 70’s but don’t have my book nearby. Mods please move if an 80’s S/N.
 
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Nice gun and glad it wound up with you. I’ve resurrected a few model 10’s. A week soaking in automatic transmission fluid while totally disassembled works wonders with a little rubbing with 0000 steel wool. Wood grips look nice but my revolvers wear Pachmayr Gripper grips. They allow me to shoot much better!
 
Nice gun and glad it wound up with you. I’ve resurrected a few model 10’s. A week soaking in automatic transmission fluid while totally disassembled works wonders with a little rubbing with 0000 steel wool. Wood grips look nice but my revolvers wear Pachmayr Gripper grips. They allow me to shoot much better!


I’ve done the “soak” with some other guns but realized that this one was barely fired (barrel, cylinder, etc are nearly perfect). For that reason, decided to leave some “character”, didn’t want it to be perfect.
 
Great gun and story of your departed.
There is a saying going around all vets pay with their lives, some all at once others a little at a time.
I imagine 15-20 years from now, there will be a lot of diseases recognized as linked to service from more recent times ( Iraq / Afghanistan for me)
Cherish the gun but shoot it frequently.
 
Nice gun and glad it wound up with you. I’ve resurrected a few model 10’s. A week soaking in automatic transmission fluid while totally disassembled works wonders with a little rubbing with 0000 steel wool. Wood grips look nice but my revolvers wear Pachmayr Gripper grips. They allow me to shoot much better!

Here's hoping there isn't a next time, but if there is, take note of the fact steel wool removes rust------and bluing is RUST (black oxide by name).

BOTTOM LINE: Don't go anywhere near a blued gun with steel wool!!

NEXT BOTTOM LINE: Bronze wool and a little oil produces the desired results in short order---and if you keep at it for a spell, it does a pretty decent job of blending damaged bluing with its neighboring undamaged bluing---more or less----depending on how damaged.

Ralph Tremaine
 
Here's hoping there isn't a next time, but if there is, take note of the fact steel wool removes rust------and bluing is RUST (black oxide by name).

BOTTOM LINE: Don't go anywhere near a blued gun with steel wool!!

NEXT BOTTOM LINE: Bronze wool and a little oil produces the desired results in short order---and if you keep at it for a spell, it does a pretty decent job of blending damaged bluing with its neighboring undamaged bluing---more or less----depending on how damaged.

Ralph Tremaine

I’ve read that, but also watched a ton of restoration videos where they used 0000 steel wool and said it’s no problem since the wool is so fine. Some say you leave behind bits of the wool and that can cause rust, but the guns were soaked in ATF so no bits could remain. I’m no gunsmith but I’ve never had a problem using the steel wool. One 10-8 I bought I got for a very good deal due to the rust. $125. I brought it back to the shop after I was done with it and the owner couldn’t believe it was the same gun.
 
I’ve done the “soak” with some other guns but realized that this one was barely fired (barrel, cylinder, etc are nearly perfect). For that reason, decided to leave some “character”, didn’t want it to be perfect.

I give the soak to every used revolver I buy, even if there is no rust. It just seems to smooth things up. Also forces me to tear the gun apart and I’ve seen some nasty stuff in there. I like knowing that a gun I own is starting life with me in top working order.
 
I wonder if your BIL Kenn had carried an earlier Model 10 while in Vietnam, and that's why he picked up that 10-8 sometime later after he got back home. It's a shame that the revolver was neglected, but considering his medical issues it's understandable. You did a great job restoring it! I picked up a ANIB Model 10-8 from a buddy who had purchased it new for his daughter in 1982. She refused to use it or carry it, so he just wanted to recoup a few bucks and sold it to me cheap in 2017. This revolver was absolutely mint, and I probably should have kept it. But I'm more of an N-frame guy and was on the hunt at the time for a nice Model 57...so I sold it at a local gun show in 2021 for $450. I was happy and the buyer was happy, and I ended up with my minty nickel 4" Model 57. Your Model 10-8 should make a fun shooter. Enjoy!
 

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As you know, sometimes certain in-laws can actually be much more close than blood relatives. It leaves a hole in us that is hard to fill. Glad you got this piece and it brings back good memories. Good job of cleaning it up. I suggest you shoot it once in a while. Not only are the model 10's a great revolver, it will renew those great memories of you and your ex brother-in-law.
 
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As you know, sometimes certain in-laws can actually be much more close than blood relatives. It leaves a hole in us that is hard to fill. Glad you got this piece brings back good memories. Good job of cleaning it up. I suggest you shoot it once in a while. Not only are the model 10's a great revolver, it will renew those great memories of you and your ex brother-in-law.


I showed my sister the before and after pics and she was stunned to the point of tears that it literally came back to life. She thought it would be destined to continuing life as a paperweight. Couldn’t believe that I’ll shoot it on a regular basis! (enjoying every single shot!)
 
I’ve read that, but also watched a ton of restoration videos where they used 0000 steel wool and said it’s no problem since the wool is so fine. Some say you leave behind bits of the wool and that can cause rust, but the guns were soaked in ATF so no bits could remain. I’m no gunsmith but I’ve never had a problem using the steel wool. One 10-8 I bought I got for a very good deal due to the rust. $125. I brought it back to the shop after I was done with it and the owner couldn’t believe it was the same gun.

Well then by all means keep right on using steel wool---or not.

Here are a couple of things you might want to consider along the way: The first is the bluing process is known as "controlled corrosion". The end result is a transformation of what I'll call "white steel" into rust--"black oxide" by name. That black oxide is about .0002" thick---more or less----depending on the amount of control in "controlled corrosion", and tougher than Rhinoceros hide---so they say. On the other hand, we all KNOW the highly abrasive nature of cow hide will remove it. We know that as "holster wear". Let's see now, cow hide or steel wool?

Speaking of .0002", a dollar bill is about .003" thick. If/when you might choose to do the math, you'll find .003" is A BUNCH more than .0002".

Actually, I reckon the best lesson is for you to keep right on using steel wool---and suffer the consequences. Then you can say you've been there and done that----learning by doing.

Finally, let me offer my abject apologies for trying to do you a favor.

Ralph Tremaine

Just to be sure, I measured a dollar bill. It isn't .003" thick----it's .004". Maybe they changed it somewhere along the way---or maybe my remembering ain't what it used to be.
 
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... Kenn's revolver that had been sitting in a drawer for decades. I remember seeing it 40+ years ago but didn't even remember what it was (way before I started collecting them).

Turns out it was a model 10-8 wearing some butt ugly Goodyears.

In the 1970s most people put rubber grips on their revolvers because that is what cops did. Even if it was protecting the homestead from the sock drawer.
 
Well then by all means keep right on using steel wool---or not.

Here are a couple of things you might want to consider along the way: The first is the bluing process is known as "controlled corrosion". The end result is a transformation of what I'll call "white steel" into rust--"black oxide" by name. That black oxide is about .0002" thick---more or less----depending on the amount of control in "controlled corrosion", and tougher than Rhinoceros hide---so they say. On the other hand, we all KNOW the highly abrasive nature of cow hide will remove it. We know that as "holster wear". Let's see now, cow hide or steel wool?

Speaking of .0002", a dollar bill is about .003" thick. If/when you might choose to do the math, you'll find .003" is A BUNCH more than .0002".

Actually, I reckon the best lesson is for you to keep right on using steel wool---and suffer the consequences. Then you can say you've been there and done that----learning by doing.

Finally, let me offer my abject apologies for trying to do you a favor.

Ralph Tremaine

Just to be sure, I measured a dollar bill. It isn't .003" thick----it's .004". Maybe they changed it somewhere along the way---or maybe my remembering ain't what it used to be.

Don’t know why you took such offense but maybe you shouldn’t worry so
Much about what other people do with their property. I’ve used the steel wool on exactly 4 revolvers over the years. All of those revolvers turned out fine, and they still do years after they got the steel Wool treatment. These revolvers don’t get carried. They’re safe queens and they look great. Next time I need to do another revolver I’ll try your method if I can find the right product. I’m sure it works well. Six years after the first revolver I did the steel wool treatment to, the revolver still looks excellent, so I’m not to worried about it.
 
Well then by all means keep right on using steel wool---or not.

Here are a couple of things you might want to consider along the way: The first is the bluing process is known as "controlled corrosion". The end result is a transformation of what I'll call "white steel" into rust--"black oxide" by name. That black oxide is about .0002" thick---more or less----depending on the amount of control in "controlled corrosion", and tougher than Rhinoceros hide---so they say. On the other hand, we all KNOW the highly abrasive nature of cow hide will remove it. We know that as "holster wear". Let's see now, cow hide or steel wool?

Speaking of .0002", a dollar bill is about .003" thick. If/when you might choose to do the math, you'll find .003" is A BUNCH more than .0002".

Actually, I reckon the best lesson is for you to keep right on using steel wool---and suffer the consequences. Then you can say you've been there and done that----learning by doing.

Finally, let me offer my abject apologies for trying to do you a favor.

Ralph Tremaine

Just to be sure, I measured a dollar bill. It isn't .003" thick----it's .004". Maybe they changed it somewhere along the way---or maybe my remembering ain't what it used to be.

Don’t know why you took such offense but maybe you shouldn’t worry so
Much about what other people do with their property. I’ve used the steel wool on exactly 4 revolvers over the years. All of those revolvers turned out fine, and they still do years after they got the steel Wool treatment. These revolvers don’t get carried. They’re safe queens and they look great. Next time I need to do another revolver I’ll try your method if I can find the right product. I’m sure it works well. Six years after the first revolver I did the steel wool treatment to, the revolver still looks excellent, so I’m not to worried about it.
 
Don’t know why you took such offense but maybe you shouldn’t worry so
Much about what other people do with their property. I’ve used the steel wool on exactly 4 revolvers over the years. All of those revolvers turned out fine, and they still do years after they got the steel Wool treatment. These revolvers don’t get carried. They’re safe queens and they look great. Next time I need to do another revolver I’ll try your method if I can find the right product. I’m sure it works well. Six years after the first revolver I did the steel wool treatment to, the revolver still looks excellent, so I’m not to worried about it.
FWIW, Ralph has probably owned more S&W revolvers than most people have ever seen, and probably worked on more S&W revolvers than most people have ever owned.

FWIW, it seems like he was just trying to offer you the benefit of his years of experience, but YOU were the one who took offense. Your gun, your decision. You don't have to take his experience or advice. But considering the source, I would.

Bronze wool is easy to find at any Ace Hardware. Personally, I'd much rather err on the side of caution and be safe rather than sorry.

The finish is only ORIGINAL once, and once the damage is done there isn't any un-doing it.

JMO.
 
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