Big Fred
Member
Does anyone use any type of gun spray cleaners to hose out the internal parts on their M&P's? I've always used Brake Cleaner to hose out internals on metal guns and never had a problem. What would it do to the frame on a M&P?
Spray Cleaners for hosing out M&P Frame?
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Harrison
US Veteran
I would avoid anything with acetone. You would probably be safe with a spray can of RemOil.
It's a very good way to clean the frame but use something that is safe for polymer frames. Then make sure to blow out the excess with compressed air.
If you use something like Gun Scrubber (now polymer safe) you will have to relube the trigger bar/sear area. I don't think you would with RemOil.
Just a note, I've taken my M&P 9c apart several times for cleaning and inspection (about 13K rounds thru) and it's never been very dirty so complete disassembly is not necessary unless replacing parts. The slide is easy to detail and it gets much dirtier. I do that about every 1k rounds.
Dave
If you use something like Gun Scrubber (now polymer safe) you will have to relube the trigger bar/sear area. I don't think you would with RemOil.
Just a note, I've taken my M&P 9c apart several times for cleaning and inspection (about 13K rounds thru) and it's never been very dirty so complete disassembly is not necessary unless replacing parts. The slide is easy to detail and it gets much dirtier. I do that about every 1k rounds.
Dave
Spininprop
Member
I don't necessarily clean the frame but I do use bollistol. Mineral oil based and polimer safe. I lube with it when I'm done only on the rails, slide and barrel.
I just use a toothbrush around the insides of the frame and call it clean. You do not want to spray/lube in and around parts of the striker. I brush off or use a patch lightly moist with the cleaner of choice, again bollistol for me.
I just use a toothbrush around the insides of the frame and call it clean. You do not want to spray/lube in and around parts of the striker. I brush off or use a patch lightly moist with the cleaner of choice, again bollistol for me.
AABEN
Member
I use Kano Microil then blow clean with my air hose 100lb will blow it clean. It leaves a little lube on the gun that way I do not need oil.
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Why do you do that? Do you drop the guns in puddles, mud or sand quite often?
It is really not necessary to hose down the inside of the frame unless you have done so, or unless you have fired 20,000 rounds without cleaning and you are gunked up a bit. Short of that, you just don't need to do it.
If you really need to clean out the frame, what is wrong with the traditional method - complete disassembly and wash off each part, then re-lube and re-assemble.
Also, remember that the M&P and the SIGMA, the SW Series and the SD Series all have the little felt pad to "modulate spring vibrations" in the trigger return spring. When that gets wet, it has known to disintegrate and without it, the trigger spring will "shatter." The material from which it is made "may" have changed over the years (that is pure speculation, and I am giving S&W some benefit of the doubt here as they were aware of the problem as one of their people was present when this happened, twice in one test,* after the SIGMA came out), but it still looks absorbent. If it is, remember, even if it does not "disintegrate," it will hold moisture or water and will surely cause the trigger spring to rust and then break. They recommend that LE Agencies change out that spring quite often, and that may be part of the reason why, although that is not the exclusive reason.
While I believe there is no danger in submerging or thoroughly wetting the inside of a Glock, Beretta or 1911 frame with anything, I am always very cautious about getting that felt pad wet on the M&P.
There have been discussions about it on this forum, and it is surprising how many people do not even know it is there. Remove the slide and pull the trigger to the rear. When the return spring "stretches," you will get a very clear view of the "tampon," as many have nicknamed it.
*If I recall correctly, they were "dunking" the SIGMA into water to cool it during a rapid fire portion of a gun magazine type of "endurance test." The disintegration of the felt pad occurred twice causing the trigger spring to break twice, with surprisingly few rounds fired. They attributed the spring breaking to the fact that the little pad (tampon) was soaked during the dunking. At least one person from S&W was present when this happened, and his name was mentioned in the article.
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Thanks for the replys.
NO Shawn, I do not drop my handgun in puddles, mud, nor sand. But when I clean it I like it CLEAN and that means the powder residue that accumulates in and around the trigger mechanism in the frame. With my metal framed handguns I have always used brake cleaner and it works great. Just lube it well after as the brake cleaner removes all traces of oil. This M&P is my first plastic handgun, thus my question.
I do appreciate the information about the "tampon". I had no idea such a thing existed in the gun. I'll figgure something out to clean and keep clean, to my standards, without hurting the gun.
NO Shawn, I do not drop my handgun in puddles, mud, nor sand. But when I clean it I like it CLEAN and that means the powder residue that accumulates in and around the trigger mechanism in the frame. With my metal framed handguns I have always used brake cleaner and it works great. Just lube it well after as the brake cleaner removes all traces of oil. This M&P is my first plastic handgun, thus my question.
I do appreciate the information about the "tampon". I had no idea such a thing existed in the gun. I'll figgure something out to clean and keep clean, to my standards, without hurting the gun.
Back when i had my machinegun, (S&W mdl 76) i used
Gunscrubber spray to "hose out" the internals after field
stripping the gun. Then applied a light coat of oil to all
moving parts. Worked great and never missed a beat.
Of course this is a different type of weapon you describe
so don't know how well it would work for you.
Now a full-auto session with this mdl 76 would be 100's of rounds.
This stuff is great for blowing out any loose grime/dirt, unburned
powder, etc.. in recessed areas of guns like this.
hope this helps.
Chuck
Gunscrubber spray to "hose out" the internals after field
stripping the gun. Then applied a light coat of oil to all
moving parts. Worked great and never missed a beat.
Of course this is a different type of weapon you describe
so don't know how well it would work for you.
Now a full-auto session with this mdl 76 would be 100's of rounds.
This stuff is great for blowing out any loose grime/dirt, unburned
powder, etc.. in recessed areas of guns like this.
hope this helps.
Chuck
When the return spring "stretches," you will get a very clear view of the "tampon," as many have nicknamed it.
Maybe this explains why for a few days every month my M&Ps are cranky, won't perform well, and just want to be held.
On a serious note, I don't "hose out" my M&Ps with anything. I do take the striker out of the channel and clean it out periodically (no pun intended re the above comment
) when I am cleaning the slide, but I don't do anything but wipe down the frame where I can reach it inside.
srings
Member
Ballistol Aerosol Spray in the 6 ounce can works great. Cleans and lubes (even though I do use some Hoppes gun oil after cleaning to lubes certain parts including the barrel). I'd recommend that like some of the other folks in this thread.
Ballistol does indeed work very well....I just could not get used to the smell. Some people like it, some people don't...and I fall into the don't category. That's unfortunate because it does work so well, and I thought I would use it anyway...but I could smell it on my guns for hours afterward, and I just couldn't go it.
I use Hoppe's Elite to clean, and Weapon Shield as a lube.
danysw
Member
Non chlorinated brake cleaner from Wallyworld works very well. I've been using it for many years without a problem. After that a good lube with Mobil 1 synthetic oil or grease depending of the firearm and ready to go.
If you ever go to youtube and look up hickok45, the guy swears by Ballistol on everything! He has a video on how he cleans his Glocks and he just sprays everything, wipes off the excess and reassembles it! Great videos; the guy's pretty cool; must have every gun and rifle ever made and has videos of him shooting all of them! He's got a 230yd. range in his backyard!
Thanks, I'm no stranger to Ballistol. There is probably 3 or 4 spray cans on the shelf in the reloading room. I've been using Ballistol for at least the past 15 years, but never to spray the gunk out of a gun. Just might have to see how that works !! I kinda like the Simple Green and sink idea too, then maybe a blow dry with the air compressor and then relube.
Keep the ideas flowing.
Thanks.
Keep the ideas flowing.
Thanks.
Spray away with gun scrubber or non chlorinated break cleaner. I to, like the insides clean as possible. Lightly re lube moving parts and you are good to go. I used to stay away from any internal lube and then I read a Sig armorers manual. Wow, what a difference.
ammodave
Member
+1 Been using it for years. It's cheap, available everywhere and displaces water if your pistol has gotten wet. I don't considerate a lubricant; I oil anything requiring lube as a separate step after the WD40 evaporates.
You guys are working way too hard at this.
Spray the tactical tupperware frames out with CRC Silicone, shake and/or wipe out the excess, and you're good to go.
The heptane propellant cleans it, and the slight residue of silicone powder is all the lube the plastic parts need.
Spray the tactical tupperware frames out with CRC Silicone, shake and/or wipe out the excess, and you're good to go.
The heptane propellant cleans it, and the slight residue of silicone powder is all the lube the plastic parts need.
