Springs etc on 686 SSR

[jkhouw1]

Hi,
I have a new 686 SSR. This is my first S&W revolver (although likely not the last as now I lust over a K and N frame as well but I digress).

A few questions on the springs:
Shooting mostly striker fired auto's and 1911's, I'm obviously adjusting to the heavy DA pull. I put 1000 rounds through (almost all my handloaded 158gr SWC that avg 1120fps out of this gun) and probably double that dry fire and have decided to swap some springs to lighten it up a bit.

So out of the box it was exceptionally heavy and after cleaning the cylinder bearing surface and a few hundred dry fires it lightened up considerably BUT was still over 12lbs (the max my trigger gauge goes to) if I had to guess it was still about 13.5 having started around 15.

I purchased the wolff spring kit (STANDARD) as I don't want to deal with light strikes and am not looking to push the envelope to the point it requires specific brands of primers.

So, rambling aside, my questions:
1) I used the 14lb trigger rebound spring and left the ribbed spring the gun shipped with (did not use the wolff) - This lightened the double pull to 9lbs14oz avg, and reduced the SA from 5.5lbs to 4.25 lbs. I didn't bother to try the 13lb spring. I ASSume the rebound spring will have no effect on primer strikes? And that if its heavy enough to return the trigger reliably and quickly enough its good to go?

2) The strain screw keeps backing out on me - and I don't seem to find a consensus on locktite or torque. It first backed out @100 shots, (and immediately got light strikes) so I gently tightened it to its stop but not super torqued. It backed out again after about 100 shots, so I tightened it again, this time fairly firmly - but still didn't want to crank down on it as I'm not sure how strong the threads are. This time it lasted about 700 shots before loosening to the point of light strikes. So do people crank down on it? locktite it? something else?

3) Anyone know the difference (powerwise) between the mainspring shipped with the 686 SSR and the standard wolff power rib?
bottom is the one that came with, top is the wolff.

far is the one that came with, near (with less arch) is the wolff standard power

 

[kaaskop49]

I can't answer your spring questions. With the original springs, my 686SSR is the finest revolver I own. Of course, I am accustomed to the DA triggers of many police revolvers over the years. I consider ALL my revolvers to be business guns; anything I grab out of the safe must be ready to handle a serious social encounter. Springs stay original.

So you also have the strain screw backing out! Happened to me. IIRC, I caused some commotion on the Forum with posters telling me (1) this could not happen, (2) the gun was purchased used and had been previously modified, (3) I should/should not use Loctite to secure it.

Knowing nothing about Loctite, there are different variations, I brought the SSR to my gunsmith and allowed him to Loctite the strain screw. Presto! No more bscking out or light hits.

Hope all the rambling is of some help.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[jkhouw1]

I don't use this for SD, but I want to use it for some action pistol, and I get very uncomfortable with light strikes and never knowing if its the dreaded hangfire - and even more so with revolvers than a semi auto where a tap/rack gets rid of the offending round quickly.
In any event, SD or plinking, I want my gun to go boom when I pull the trigger - which is why for the moment I left the mainspring stock -but if the stock on the SSR is actually lighter than the standard wolff, I may put the wolff in.

As for the locktite, I was thinking maybe purple or green to start, and if it still backs out, maybe go to blue.

I would guess that if I shot 38sp primarily, it would stay put longer, but I prefer to shoot my light to mid357 mag loads

 

[gnystrom]

I put removable locktite on all my strain screws. Then have never backed out or given me any trouble if they needed to be removed.

I have a 14# rebound spring in my 686ssr and 13# springs in my J-frames with no trigger return issues at all.

 

[Eyelawdoc]

I have installed 13# and 14# rebound springs in my 686 revolvers. Both work well. Your trigger pull will be slightly lower with the 13# verses the 14# spring, but not by a lot.

I use blue Locktite, which is removable by the way, on my strain screws and have never had a problem with them backing out under fire, or removal.

As you have noticed, there is a slight difference in the curvature of the ribbed mainspring supplied by Wolf and the original S&W ribbed mainspring. I have found it necessary to re-curve the Wolf spring to make it fit my newer 686 guns. Otherwise, it sometimes interferes with the rebound mechanism as the hammer is fully cocked. I am not aware of any difference between the power of the factory ribbed mainspring and the Wolf standard ribbed spring (Type 1). Wolf does offer another ribbed mainspring (Type 2) with less power. Since your 686SSR comes with the good ribbed spring from the factory, I'd just use it as you have done.

Locktite blue your strain screw and enjoy your new revolver!

 

[Pizza Bob]

I vote for purple Loctite. From your posts you reload. You can help assure positive ignition by deep-seating your primers (below flush). This, in effect, pre-loads the anvil, so it takes a lighter firing pin strike for ignition. I do compete and light strikes are, at times, a fact of life on a tuned revolver. Using Federal primers, seated below flush, I get positive ignition with a 5# D/A trigger pull.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

 

[gnystrom]

One more option. It may be worth your looking at an extended firing pin.

S&W REVOLVER EXTRA LENGTH FIRING PIN | Brownells

 

[rbert0005]

I take .020 off the strain screw and install a 14pnd rebound spring.
Polishing the rebound slide and rebound slide channel in the frame will do it for you.

Bob

 

[twodog max]

I had the same problem with the strain screw on my SSR backing out. The revolver went back to S&W with another problem and I mentioned the strain screw and it came back with what looked like blue Loctite on it and no more problems. The other problem was fixed as well. It is my favorite 357 of my many S&W 357's. I could of and would of used the Loctite but since it was going home I let S&W check and fix it. The trigger pulls on mine are most satisfactory but I have had mine 5-6 years and shot it a lot.

 

[Hopper]

Every time I do a spring swap (I gravitate towards Wilson Combat for K/L frames), I put just a dab of blue Loctite on the strain screw. It's so far been enough to hold everything tight, but not so tight I can't get it out if I need to. My recently purchased NIB 686 Plus 3" had a slightly loose strain screw right out of the gate.

 

[jkhouw1]

One more option. It may be worth your looking at an extended firing pin.

S&W REVOLVER EXTRA LENGTH FIRING PIN | Brownells

I threw one of those in this am... From what I could tell its not extended but rather cut out more allowing a little more forward movement. I assume this will help with primers that are a little deep but of the spring isn't strong enough it won't make much difference. But I figured it was worth a try.

Sounds like a tiny dab of blue the next time its opened will do it. At that time I may polish the rebound slide & channel as well.

Just loaded up another 500 rounds and can't wait to get back to the range to test the 14lb rebound spring I dropped in.

 

[twodog max]

Solid plan. Have fun

 

[scooter123]

My standard procedure for a newer S&W K, n, or L frame revolver is to install a Cylinder & Slide extended travel firing pin, a 14 lbs. rebound spring, and file fit the Strain Screw to a length that produced a 9 to 9.5 lbs. DA trigger pull in Double Action as measured on my Lyman Digital trigger gage. This has proven to be a formula that is 100% reliable for ignition with any primer I've used (Remington, CCI Magnum, Winchester, CCI Standard, and Federal standard - Note order of hardest to softest).

I've also determined that the Rebound Spring has very little effect on DA trigger pull, it's effect is most notable on the SA trigger weight. The DA trigger pull is almost 100% a result of the force generated by the Main Spring, and at the weight I like using the standard factory spring works perfectly by simply file fitting the strain screw.

BTW, the earlier revolvers may require a different approach in terms of the firing pin. A classic test for the firing pin projection on the older hammer mounted firing pins is the Dime Test. Ideally when the hammer is fully forward with the trigger held to the rear the firing pin should project through the recoil shield by the thickness of a Dime.

I recently purchased a 1971 vintage model 19-3 that failed the Dime test due to the Bangor Punta era S&W installing a "short" hammer nose. (the revolver was nearly unfired when purchased). Even with the Strain Screw shimmed with a primer cup to produce a DA trigger weight of 10.5 lbs it still misfired with CCI 550 Magnum primers 1 to 2 times for each cylinder shot in double action. The solution was to purchase a Power Custom hammer nose from Brownell's and this cured the misfire issue completely. Even when I removed that shim on the strain screw and restored the DA trigger to the 8 lbs. 9 ounce weight that S&W shipped the revolver with way back in 1971. Note, when I first shimmed the strain screw on this revolver a quick look revealed the tip was still factory blue with no indication of being file fit. So, based on just one sample I feel that it is quite likely that older S&W revolvers were made and shipped with much lighter triggers than today's models. That "short" hammer nose also shows that even during the height of the Pinned and Recessed era that sometimes S&W got things a bit wrong.

Some good news is that the Power Custom extended Hammer Nose sold by Brownell's does fit a 1971 vintage hammer in spite of being labeled for a 1989 and later style hammer. It also required zero fitting but installed is about 0.005-0.010 inch longer than said Dime and but in testing there was no evidence of primer micro cracking with either standard or Magnum CCI primers.

Note, that Cylinder & Slide extended travel firing pin for the late model revolvers can cause micro cracking with Federal primers if the DA trigger weight is heavier than 11.5 lbs. so only use this firing pin in a revolver that has been tuned to a lighter DA trigger weight.

 

[jkhouw1]

Well just got back from the range. Zero light strikes - although I wasn't expecting any since I had just tightened the strain screw when I swapped the rebound spring.

The lighter double action pull closed my fairly rapid fire groups @15yrds by about 1.5" (so from combat effective to middling LOL).

Very happy so far - still no where near what I can do with my 1911 but I'm still (even after 1k+ rounds) trying to get comfortable with quickly acquiring a good, consistent grip.

 

[AzShooter]

The rebound spring is most important in the trigger return. If it's too light the gun will skip a cylinder during FAST shooting.
I use an 11 lb rebound spring and the Wolf spring like yours. I also bend the mainspring for the lightest trigger pull possible.

This means I have to use Federal Primer. No big deal I like their consistency.

I also loctite the strain screw. If you loosen it it's best to cut it down and then to tighten it all the way. Blue Loctite works best because you can still work the screw but it won't back out.

 

[Blackshirt]

I prefer 15# rebound springs for a positive reset. Fiddling with the mainspring to get the DA pull to 9-10 lbs makes for a wonderful trigger, but can have a negative effect on ignition. I use Apex XP firing pin kits (with reduced power FP return springs) to get that reliability back. Along with a little polishing on the rebound slide, that is all a Smith needs to have a really satisfying trigger. Oh, and a little dab of Blue Loctite on the strain screw won't hurt anything...