Stainless steel media case cleaning???

[msinc]

I read a long thread on another forum over the last two days and tried to convince myself it wasn't worth it...and I failed. I have a Thumler's Model B High Speed, the stainless pins and a seperator on the way. Anyone else out there try this method??? How does it work for you??? Seems like you trade not having to clean out the primer pockets in exchange for having to dry the cases while getting spotless new looking brass with no residue from the last go around being blasted down the bore. It doesn't cost that much more than a good vibratory cleaner but the cases sure do come out looking like brand new. What do you guys think????

 

[MichiganScott]

I think I'll stick to my Model B and rouge impregnated crushed walnut media. I've used that combination since 1977.

The purpose of tumbling cases is to clean them to protect your dies. I could care less if they sparkle like cheap jewelry, although I do appreciate a little shine.

 

[Moonman]

I use the Model B Hi-Speed, S.S. Pins Dawn and Lemi-Shine exclusively.

I only do hand gun cases.

 

[Twoboxer]

No doubt the cases/pockets come out cleaner and shinier than tumbling. But for me, the tradeoff wasn't worth it.

I like the freedom of putting my cases in the tumbler on a timer . . . and if I don't get back to them until the next day or later, it doesn't matter. I like not dealing with waste water, not worrying about whether I threw the pins out with the bath water, and not having to dry the brass before loading.

I *do* tumble outdoors, so maybe if I had to deal with the dust indoors the outcome would have been different. Maybe not.

 

[*chris*]

I recently started using SS pins in a large (18 pound capacity) vibratory tumbler. Brass comes out great and super clean, but you need to add another step of depriming the cases before tumbling. While they are super shiny out of the tumble, they quickly tarnish when the dry. I used to tumble with walnut shells and Nu Finish and those cases stay shiny bright on the outside more or less permanently.

Chris

 

[Moonman]

Twoboxer,

My Model B runs on a Push-Button timer 1-2-4-8 hour time limit, your choice.

I also used the removable side plate to make a LEXAN side plate, with a 1" hole for a fill hose and 180" from that

a 4" hole with a SILICONE sealed in place strainer that has a mesh SMALLER than the S.S. PINS.

The Pins stay in the drum, I remove the brass by hand and shake the pins out of the cases.

I place the whole tumbler inside a large dish pan, any pins that get loose I pick up with a magnet.

 

[Twoboxer]

We're using the same timer, and you have a good setup. Answers most of the the objections . . . probably for most folks.

 

[medalguy]

I bought SS pins and used them a few times last year. They do indeed make the brass look like new, but it doesn't shoot any better. And it is a PITA having to remove all the pins that invariably get stuck to the inside of the cases by water surface tension, then drying the brass. I also believe cob and NuFinish keeps the brass from tarnishing a lot longer than just washed brass. Just my .02

 

[fredj338]

It does clean brass really well, but such a PITA vs dry tumbling. You must decap all of the brass first if you want the primer pockets clean, then tumble then dry then make sure all the ss pins are out of the case. Just not for me & bulk handgun brass. Clean is fine, shiney is fine, factory shiney, who cares. For handgun brass that goes thru carbide dies, IMO, the brass is actually too clean, squeaky clean. So it offers more resistance than tumbled brass in sizing. Not a lot, but You do feel it & over 1000rd run on a progressive, it starts wearing on you. For rifle, you case lube anyway, so not as big a deal.
I have a setup, but rarley use it, just too much extra work for very little gain. I use it for really tarnished brass or for tumbling jackets used for 223 bullet swaging.

 

[SMSgt]

I tumble my cases in lizard cage bedding, don't bother with cleaning primer pockets, and all my rounds work just fine, spit-shined or not.

 

[msinc]

I thought about the issue of getting all the pins out of the brass and of losing the pins down the drain. I read somewhere that the easy way to get the pins out is to use one of those separators that rotates the cases. Just put water in it. Rinses the brass with clean water and causes the pins to fall out. Little magnets placed where the pins could fall out will grab them. But, I am always cautious when the comment starts with "all ya' gotta do...." As to the comments regarding shiny new looking brass...I could care less myself but shiny new primer pockets I don have to clean, that's a different story. I dont plan to use this for pistol brass.

 

[socal s&w]

There is also a very comprehensive thread here on this Forum about the SS/Wet method.

I'm with you, I like shiny, clean brass, just my nature I suppose. You can nay-say all you want, I'm in.

It is not much more work than the dry and is less caustic for breathing, little to no dust. I do not clean in large batches, only about 300 at a time, so it works for me. A little planning ahead is all that is needed to allow for some drying time. I usually just tumble on Monday or Tuesday night, leave to dry overnight and they are good to go the following evening when I get home from work.

Since I always deprimed when using the vibratory anyway, that has not changed. What has changed is how clean the pockets are, much easier to feel the loose primer pockets and discard those cases.

I like that wet method and will not go back to vibratory.

 

[rwsmith]

Magnets?

I thought about the issue of getting all the pins out of the brass and of losing the pins down the drain. I read somewhere that the easy way to get the pins out is to use one of those separators that rotates the cases. Just put water in it. Rinses the brass with clean water and causes the pins to fall out. Little magnets placed where the pins could fall out will grab them.

Stainless steel is not magnetic!

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

I've had my ss pin set up for about 15 months now and am still happy with it. The other day I cleaned brass that had been in the damp cellar for almost 27 years. It was basicly black, I didn't decap this, but in 4 hours the inside and the outside were like new. I tumble using hot water, lema-shine and lemon dish soap and rinse with hot water in the bathtub. When the water comes out deep grey/black, I rinse twice, and the cases seem to not tarnish. I just went and checked, you can pick up the pins with a magnet! Who knew? This makes small spills easy to clean up now. Ivan

 

[Moonman]

rwsmith,

Stainless Steel exists as BOTH magnetic and Non-Magnetic varieties.

The Magnetic Pins used in S.S. tumbling also does not rust, mine stay in the drum almost all of the time.

 

[Bart45]

I wet tumble with ss pins in a Thumler. Black power fired brass get 1 hour, and smokeless gets 1/2 hour. It's quick, quiet, no dust, and you get clean flash holes. As far as having to decap before, sooner or later, you decap. The pins and tumbler are a one time purchase. What's not to love?

 

[Hansli]

I made my own tumbler with a conveyor motor that doubles as my pig rotisserie motor. In my opinion, unless you crave really shiny brass, wet tumbling is a messy tedious affair. The motor is back on the rotisserie and my walnut media is back in business.

 

[socal s&w]

To each his/her own....that's why they make different calibers....it's YOUR choice!

 

[gwalchmai]

One tip I learned is to rinse the brass with very hot water before laying it out to dry. Doing so makes the brass dry much faster.

I use a 1/4" wire mesh basket inside a 5 gal bucket to separate the pins from the brass.

Yes, the SS pins are magnetic.

I sometimes (< 1%) get two pins wedged tightly in the primer holes. A small (~1/16") flat punch drives them out nicely.

 

[FishingPilot]

I used to tumble with walnut shells and Nu Finish and those cases stay shiny bright on the outside more or less permanently.

Chris

I still use this method. They even smell nice!