Stainless touch up question.

[wproct]

I am familiar from past experience that small scratches on stainless handguns are relatively easy to buff out and touch up. However, for me I'm kind of at a loss as to how to touch up scratches or dings on the top rib area of Smith & Wesson revolvers where the surface is a dull matted finish. How do you guys usually go about doing that? Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks,

 

[What the]

Hmmm. Good question. I'm thinking that is probably a proprietary process,someone with more experience may know. Seems like anything you do to that area will stick out much worse than it does now.

Good luck

 

[Dpris]

The 64 I was issued in 1980 has all sorts of dings, dents, and scratches on it.
Would probably drive you screaming into the night.
To me, they represent character and service, and they'll be there till at least the day I die. After which if a descendant thinks the gun needs to be pretty, it'll be his choice & I won't have to see it.
Just a thought.....
Denis

 

[wproct]

Yes, I have kind of a strange trait. If I buy a new gun, and I put a scratch or dent on it, I look at it as a memory and it bothers me, but not all that much. However, if I buy a used gun that has a scratch or dent, it bothers me. It's silly, because I am aware of these flaws when I buy the gun.

 

[one eye joe]

You might try a coarse abrasive 3M pad on the entire surface. It might not replicate the stock finish exactly, but it should be uniform and dull in appearance.

 

[Broker50]

I'm afraid the only way to repair it is to bead blast again. The more polished surfaces would need to be masked, though.

 

[lebomm]

Stainless finish

Any time you move an abrasive over the surface, you'll make linear marks instead of the bead-blast finish from the factory. Try this: lay a strip of 320-grit abrasive strip (NOT sandpaper) on the topstrap with the grit against the gun, and tape it so it won't move. Mount the gun, cylinder removed, in a padded vise. Then take a metal roller, such as a large roller bearing or a piece of smooth steel roundbar, and roll it over the strip with moderate-to-heavy pressure to impress the grit surface into the steel. Make sure not to slide the strip when you remove it, and wipe the surface GENTLY with an oiled patch. The grade of the grit you choose will determine the surface you produce. Needless to say, NEVER try this on a blued gun !
Let us know how you come out.

Larry

 

[markush]

Interesting suggestion lebomm. Have you done this yourself? Can you explain further what a 320-grit abrasive strip that is not sandpaper...is?

 

[one eye joe]

Interesting suggestion lebomm. Have you done this yourself? Can you explain further what a 320-grit abrasive strip that is not sandpaper...is?

DITTO.........

 

[wproct]

Thanks, giving me some food for thought.

 

[lebomm]

one eyed joe & markush;
Certainly can - The 320 abrasive strip I refer to is grit bonded to a hefty cloth backing with an adhesive that is resistant to both oil and water. Sandpaper just uses some kind of glue, and the grit comes loose quite easily, leaving the paper kinda bald. Some industrial catalogs refer to it as an "Abrasive Shop Roll". Usually about 50 yds of it in a flat dispenser-type carton. A well-stocked hardware or industrial supply house will stock it, and will frequently sell it by the yard.
And yes, I used this technique on a Model 64 that had been buffed up a little carelessly, and the topstrap got a little shiny, but not really polished. Worked out OK for me.

Larry