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I would recommend the Lee Classic Turret Press kit available at Kempf Gun Shop. Here is the link: https://kempfgunshop.com//index.php...facturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=41.
Wee Hooker
Member
x2 on the Lee Classic Turret. Add a 4 die set and a scale and your spitting out quality reloads for just over $200. This is a really friendly set-up that allows excellent control of the process, decent speed (3-4 /min) and VG consistency. I've had many other peeress's but have come back to this one.
p.s. You can also get/build the press/kit from Cabelas and Midwayusa.
hth
whelenshooter
Member
I teach reloading as part of an introduction to firearms class at the University of Alaska in Juneau. In my opinion, all "kits" have something in them you don't need, so I usually suggest just buying the pieces you need. Mail order is ALWAYS the best way to go. Start with a single stage press, not a progressive or a turret press. You don't NEED an expensive one, but it is always cheaper to buy once, rather than upgrade later. However I've always found it extremely handy to have more than one press, so buying a less expensive press to start, then adding a top of the line press later isn't that bad of a thing to do. Even if you have a progressive press you will still need a single stage press for odds and ends (using a decapping die to deprime dirty brass before cleaning, or using a collet bullet puller so you don't have to dump and reweigh powder charges). Standard balance beam scales are better for weighing out powder charges than electronic scales, but electronic scales are better for weighing things of unknown value (segregating bullets and brass). The best balance beam scale for the money is the Dillon "Eliminator" Scale. It has magnetic damping and agate bearings and is only $54.95. A similar scale by RCBS is around $80.00. A good "starter" press is the "Smart Reloader" press sold by Midsouth Shooting supplies. It is only about $30.00. Another good starter press is the RCBS "Partner" press, which sells for about $70.00 from the same place. The RCBS "Rockchucker Supreme" press is the press to which all others are compared and will last several lifetimes. It is about $120.00 from Midsouth Shooters Supply. You should look hard at the Redding presses. They are very good, and dead primers are handled better than by most presses. Sometimes I wish I had bought a Redding press, but every time I sit down and use one of my Rockchuckers, I'm always as happy as a clam at high tide. Another cheap starter press is the Lee "Reloader" press. It is about $26.00 and has all the power you need to size most cases, but you need to be a little creative as to how you mount it so that you can easily dump dead primers. If there is a bad single stage press on the market, I don't know about it. Things get a bit more "iffy" when you go to turret presses and progressive presses. Feel free to send me a personal message and ask questions.
Smith357
US Veteran
It would depend I what I was planning to reload and how much I was planing to use it and how much I was willing to spend. A good progressive press and all the goodies cost as much as the gun for which you are loading.
If it were for my bolt action rifles and a few handgun rounds I would go with a good single stage press. As mentioned above the RCBS Rockchucker is the the finest single stage press for the money.
If I'm needing to reload hundreds of rounds every week for competition I would go with a Dillon Progressive.
With that said, that is not the way I first went about it some 20 years ago I went cheap. I started with a Lee Hand Press to load for my winchester 94 .30-30, that was a huge mistake, just loading 20 rounds was a chore and that press was soon tossed in the garbage. I then got the Lee single stage O-ring press kit. After a few years the handle broke,. I made a new handle and that press is still in use today for loading my 2-500 rifle rounds per year. But I am eyeballing a Rockchucker and it will be my next press.
The next press I bought was the Lee 1000 Progressive press, it is advertised and being able to change calibers, well it can if you don't mind a complete disassembly with lots of tiny parts to get lost. I also found the 1000 to be finicky needing a lot of tweeking to get it to run smoothly. Once that was done it has worked fine as my dedicated .38 special press for many thousands of rounds. I have a friend who buys a new Lee 1000 whenever he wants a setup for a new handgun caliber. I believe he has 4 of them.
I recently got a deal on a Dillon 550, the action is smooth as silk and switching calibers is truly fast and easy. The downside of the 550 is the primer feeding, This is where the cheap Lee really outshines the Dillon, With the Dillon you have to use the flip tray, then load the primers in a tube, then transfer them to another tube. With the Lee you use the flip tray then insert the flip tray into the press and you are done messing with the primers.
If it were for my bolt action rifles and a few handgun rounds I would go with a good single stage press. As mentioned above the RCBS Rockchucker is the the finest single stage press for the money.
If I'm needing to reload hundreds of rounds every week for competition I would go with a Dillon Progressive.
With that said, that is not the way I first went about it some 20 years ago I went cheap. I started with a Lee Hand Press to load for my winchester 94 .30-30, that was a huge mistake, just loading 20 rounds was a chore and that press was soon tossed in the garbage. I then got the Lee single stage O-ring press kit. After a few years the handle broke,. I made a new handle and that press is still in use today for loading my 2-500 rifle rounds per year. But I am eyeballing a Rockchucker and it will be my next press.
The next press I bought was the Lee 1000 Progressive press, it is advertised and being able to change calibers, well it can if you don't mind a complete disassembly with lots of tiny parts to get lost. I also found the 1000 to be finicky needing a lot of tweeking to get it to run smoothly. Once that was done it has worked fine as my dedicated .38 special press for many thousands of rounds. I have a friend who buys a new Lee 1000 whenever he wants a setup for a new handgun caliber. I believe he has 4 of them.
I recently got a deal on a Dillon 550, the action is smooth as silk and switching calibers is truly fast and easy. The downside of the 550 is the primer feeding, This is where the cheap Lee really outshines the Dillon, With the Dillon you have to use the flip tray, then load the primers in a tube, then transfer them to another tube. With the Lee you use the flip tray then insert the flip tray into the press and you are done messing with the primers.
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Tell Sackett
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You asked so.....................
I'm with whelen on only one issue, buy pieces. It will get you better stuff for less money. While I recommend that, there is one exception, buy local if possible. It may not be practical in Alaska, but I want that shop that is 10 mile from me to be there when I need something I forgot and I need it quick. Just me though. But you asked...............
What press you buy depends on mainly one thing, two maybe.
Your mechanical aptitude and money. Well, maybe three, the reason you are reloading. If you have been buying ammo and shooting in competition and now are taking it to the next level by cutting cost, then you may need to start with a progressive, maybe one that can only do handgun cartridge is ok for you. Get a used Square Deal and send it to Dillon for refurbishing. Save about $100 maximum. If you are a mechanical clod, go with a turret or single stage and learn the process first, then upgrade. The same suggestion goes if you only need about 200 rounds a week. The machine works fine, it just take more time to do the same work.
If rifle cartridges are in your future, get a Hornady LNL AP, Dillon RL550 or XL650. Any of them can do both handgun and rifle cartridges.
Buy single pieces, auctions, estates, garage sales, friends. If those options aren't available, Craigslit, ebay and other gun item sites are the way to go.
If you buy single, you need, a current manual, a scale, the press of course, dies for the caliber you want to start with, components, a clean work area, a table of some kind, a way to prime the deprimed case. Cannot stress the manual enough. Not just for the data, read the instruction in the front as well.
Hope this helps.
I'm with whelen on only one issue, buy pieces. It will get you better stuff for less money. While I recommend that, there is one exception, buy local if possible. It may not be practical in Alaska, but I want that shop that is 10 mile from me to be there when I need something I forgot and I need it quick. Just me though. But you asked...............
What press you buy depends on mainly one thing, two maybe.
Your mechanical aptitude and money. Well, maybe three, the reason you are reloading. If you have been buying ammo and shooting in competition and now are taking it to the next level by cutting cost, then you may need to start with a progressive, maybe one that can only do handgun cartridge is ok for you. Get a used Square Deal and send it to Dillon for refurbishing. Save about $100 maximum. If you are a mechanical clod, go with a turret or single stage and learn the process first, then upgrade. The same suggestion goes if you only need about 200 rounds a week. The machine works fine, it just take more time to do the same work.
If rifle cartridges are in your future, get a Hornady LNL AP, Dillon RL550 or XL650. Any of them can do both handgun and rifle cartridges.
Buy single pieces, auctions, estates, garage sales, friends. If those options aren't available, Craigslit, ebay and other gun item sites are the way to go.
If you buy single, you need, a current manual, a scale, the press of course, dies for the caliber you want to start with, components, a clean work area, a table of some kind, a way to prime the deprimed case. Cannot stress the manual enough. Not just for the data, read the instruction in the front as well.
Hope this helps.
oldRoger
US Veteran
I am assuming you plan to reload for pistols.
I agree with whelenshooter and smith357. In that to start, I would buy a single stage press, I think the Lee reloader is a very good start, much better than the "tongs" I used to start. I have a Lee which I use frequently.
I agree about the Dillon scale as well. A powder measure is not necessary to start but is a good second step.
You need dial calipers, anyone's reloading dies will do, I would get the four die set for pistols, nothing wrong with Lee, Lyman, or Hornady, all of which are somewhat cheaper.
Set aside money for manuals, now is the time for hitting the books!
I agree with whelenshooter and smith357. In that to start, I would buy a single stage press, I think the Lee reloader is a very good start, much better than the "tongs" I used to start. I have a Lee which I use frequently.
I agree about the Dillon scale as well. A powder measure is not necessary to start but is a good second step.
You need dial calipers, anyone's reloading dies will do, I would get the four die set for pistols, nothing wrong with Lee, Lyman, or Hornady, all of which are somewhat cheaper.
Set aside money for manuals, now is the time for hitting the books!
Dragon88
Member
Start on a single stage, way too much going on with a progressive for the new reloader. RCBS Partner press if money is tight, Rockchucker if you have a little extra to spend.
I started on a Partner press and still use it. It is small, easy to use, and a very capable press for pistol or rifle.
I started on a Partner press and still use it. It is small, easy to use, and a very capable press for pistol or rifle.
derrelw
Member
Cabela's has the Lee Classic Turret press kit for about $210.00. It seems like a smokin' deal if you ask me.
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whelenshooter
Member
I agree with Dragon 88 about starting out with a single stage press until you really understand all the ins and outs about reloading. After you are more experienced, then it is the time to go with a progressive press. I think turret presses are a waste of money; all they really are is a single stage press with a die storage unit attached to the top. If you are using a single stage press, the single thing that will speed up your reloading is a good powder measure. The RCBS Uniflow is great, but I suggest you get the micrometer attachment so you can write down the setting that gives you a desired load, so you can get close to it the next time you want that load (you will still have to set the measure with your scale, but the micrometer helps you get close so you don't have to fiddle forever to reset the measure). If you are going to load both handgun ammunition and rifle ammunition, get both drums for your measure so you can throw both large and small charges. The Redding powder measures are also great, and you don't have to buy a separate micrometer adjustment because they come standard with it. Again, buy both drums if loading for both large and small capacity cases.
In kits, loading blocks are a waste of money, and using one will set you up for an accident that will have you pulling your hair out. What I mean is that if you weigh your powder and put the cases in your loading block, it is almost guaranteed that just about the time you get the loading block full of charged cases you are going to knock the thing on the floor and dump all of your loads. When loading with a single stage press, I use the coffee can method. When I perform something on a case (resizing for example) I grab a case from the coffee can that has the unsized cases, size the case, then put it in the coffee can with the sized cases. When I prime my cases, I grab a case from the coffee can with the cases with no primers, prime the case, and put it in the coffee can with the other primed cases. As soon as I charge a case, however, I look inside it to make sure the powder level looks like the last one I did, then I IMMEDIATELY seat a bullet in the darned thing so I can't spill it! With revolver loads I suggest seating your bullets, then crimping them in a separate step. If you set your die to seat and crimp in one step, your loads won't come out as nice. In a progressive press I always seat the bullet in one station and crimp in a different station.
In kits, lube pads are a waste of money too. They are a magnet for grit that can get on your cases and scratch your dies. If you scratch a resizing die, it is no good and it has to be replaced. I usually don't like the resizing lubricant that comes in the kits, so it too is a waste of money. The best resizing lube I've ever used is Imperial Sizing Die Wax. I lubricate the inside of the case neck of bottlenecked rifle cases with graphite using the application media made by Imperial. The graphite application media consists of tiny ceramic balls in a small container. It is the best way I've found for putting graphite on the inside of case necks. It is much less wasteful of graphite and faster than using a Q-tip to put loose graphite in a case neck.
With my left hand I grab a clean case out of the coffee can with unsized cases and use the thumb, index finger, and middle finger of my left hand to put a tiny amount of Imperial Sizing Die Wax on the body of the bottleneck rifle case. I then dip the NECK ONLY of the case into the Imperial application media to put graphite on the inside of the case neck. I then put the case into the shellholder of the single stage press (still using my left hand), and use my right hand to work the handle of the press and size the case. I then use my left hand to remove the case from the shellholder and drop it in the coffee can with the resized cases. Then I grab the next case with my left hand and continue the process. If I need more sizing die wax, I lightly rub the thumb and two fingers of my left hand in the wax container to pick up more. By putting the sizing lubricant on the case with my fingers I can feel if there is any grit present, in which case I will stop and wipe the case and my fingers of grit on a paper towel before putting more wax on my finger, lubing the case, and putting it in the die. Doing things this way only my left hand gets sizing die wax on it, and my thumb and two fingers stay lightly coated with wax until I've finished sizing them all or I've decided to quit for the day, and I don't get sizing lube on anything I don't want it on.
By buying my reloading stuff separately rather than in a kit, I can get the press I want, the scale I want, the lube I want, the primer pocket cleaner I want, the dies I want, and all the other stuff I want and leave out what I consider to be nonessential stuff.
In kits, loading blocks are a waste of money, and using one will set you up for an accident that will have you pulling your hair out. What I mean is that if you weigh your powder and put the cases in your loading block, it is almost guaranteed that just about the time you get the loading block full of charged cases you are going to knock the thing on the floor and dump all of your loads. When loading with a single stage press, I use the coffee can method. When I perform something on a case (resizing for example) I grab a case from the coffee can that has the unsized cases, size the case, then put it in the coffee can with the sized cases. When I prime my cases, I grab a case from the coffee can with the cases with no primers, prime the case, and put it in the coffee can with the other primed cases. As soon as I charge a case, however, I look inside it to make sure the powder level looks like the last one I did, then I IMMEDIATELY seat a bullet in the darned thing so I can't spill it! With revolver loads I suggest seating your bullets, then crimping them in a separate step. If you set your die to seat and crimp in one step, your loads won't come out as nice. In a progressive press I always seat the bullet in one station and crimp in a different station.
In kits, lube pads are a waste of money too. They are a magnet for grit that can get on your cases and scratch your dies. If you scratch a resizing die, it is no good and it has to be replaced. I usually don't like the resizing lubricant that comes in the kits, so it too is a waste of money. The best resizing lube I've ever used is Imperial Sizing Die Wax. I lubricate the inside of the case neck of bottlenecked rifle cases with graphite using the application media made by Imperial. The graphite application media consists of tiny ceramic balls in a small container. It is the best way I've found for putting graphite on the inside of case necks. It is much less wasteful of graphite and faster than using a Q-tip to put loose graphite in a case neck.
With my left hand I grab a clean case out of the coffee can with unsized cases and use the thumb, index finger, and middle finger of my left hand to put a tiny amount of Imperial Sizing Die Wax on the body of the bottleneck rifle case. I then dip the NECK ONLY of the case into the Imperial application media to put graphite on the inside of the case neck. I then put the case into the shellholder of the single stage press (still using my left hand), and use my right hand to work the handle of the press and size the case. I then use my left hand to remove the case from the shellholder and drop it in the coffee can with the resized cases. Then I grab the next case with my left hand and continue the process. If I need more sizing die wax, I lightly rub the thumb and two fingers of my left hand in the wax container to pick up more. By putting the sizing lubricant on the case with my fingers I can feel if there is any grit present, in which case I will stop and wipe the case and my fingers of grit on a paper towel before putting more wax on my finger, lubing the case, and putting it in the die. Doing things this way only my left hand gets sizing die wax on it, and my thumb and two fingers stay lightly coated with wax until I've finished sizing them all or I've decided to quit for the day, and I don't get sizing lube on anything I don't want it on.
By buying my reloading stuff separately rather than in a kit, I can get the press I want, the scale I want, the lube I want, the primer pocket cleaner I want, the dies I want, and all the other stuff I want and leave out what I consider to be nonessential stuff.
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I started with a lee anniversary kit before the breech lock deal when it still came with the manual. I will get flammed for suggesting it but it served me well and was cheap enough that I was not going to be mad at myself if reloading turned out to not be my thing. I have replaced a lot of the stuff that came with it and will eventually replace it all because it all has room for improvment. It is not the best stuff in the world and is slow but it will get you started and I can make ammo with it that can shoot .5 5-shot groups consistently. My best one so far is .375 out of my savage 22-250. That doesn't impress everyone and the internet is full of story tellers but its my story and I will tell it how I want to.
The plus side of having a cheap kit is that I now have reloading supplies I keep in a cheap toolbox in my truck and reload at the range. That saves from having to tear down or shoot up a lot of ammo that I loaded and won't shoot as well as I like. And if somebody decides to break into my truck and steal it I am not out much.
The plus side of having a cheap kit is that I now have reloading supplies I keep in a cheap toolbox in my truck and reload at the range. That saves from having to tear down or shoot up a lot of ammo that I loaded and won't shoot as well as I like. And if somebody decides to break into my truck and steal it I am not out much.
Get Lee single stage or the classic turrent. You can't go wrong with them or there dies. Even Lee's cheap scale works well. I bought one starter kit. then low and behold a buddy shows up with another and 38/357 dies, brand new and never used. Added a cheap FA Digital scale that has surprised me to know end with a FA bullet puller and I'm in business. I figure a Lee classic turret will fill the middle section of my little bench in the next few months to punch out standard range stuff a bit fast than I can now with two single stages. with a few more tools and dies. I can load anything out there with my basic bench. Get a cheap tumble, bucket and colender and your set. Well,,, you will also need a caliper with some odds and ends. But once your in you can reload what ever you want when you want and how you want.
Right now I'm loading up some 9mm XTP 124gr SD/HD stuff tuned for the two pistols that will use it. I can make sure the brass is perfect. Primer pockets clean, Primers holes uniform and of the same size, deburred. Powder charges are the same. Double and Triple check them. Bullets sets the same and crimps all perfect. AOL and Ogive perfect for this run. Can't get that in retail or boutique ammo. Yeah it takes time. But in the end if you want it near perfection is your.
I like working here at my simple bench more than working a trigger.
I think it's the over all best part of the firearm hobby. And once you get into a group of reloaders even on a very casual level. You find out there right there with you if you show basic skills, decorum and want to keep learning and turning the screws. Funny how consumables, hardware or tools might land in your lap at time's.
Enjoy the ride. And don't worry about one up's man ship. Over all it's not about the time, hardware or glam bench. It's about the ammo!
Enjoy your journey, learn the basic's, be safe, work your loads.
Right now I'm loading up some 9mm XTP 124gr SD/HD stuff tuned for the two pistols that will use it. I can make sure the brass is perfect. Primer pockets clean, Primers holes uniform and of the same size, deburred. Powder charges are the same. Double and Triple check them. Bullets sets the same and crimps all perfect. AOL and Ogive perfect for this run. Can't get that in retail or boutique ammo. Yeah it takes time. But in the end if you want it near perfection is your.
I like working here at my simple bench more than working a trigger.
I think it's the over all best part of the firearm hobby.
And once you get into a group of reloaders even on a very casual level. You find out there right there with you if you show basic skills, decorum and want to keep learning and turning the screws. Funny how consumables, hardware or tools might land in your lap at time's.Enjoy the ride. And don't worry about one up's man ship. Over all it's not about the time, hardware or glam bench. It's about the ammo!
Enjoy your journey, learn the basic's, be safe, work your loads.
Faulkner
Member
With all due respect to your experiance and input, I could not agree less. When I was looking to get started in reloading a dozen years ago I had a number of folks give me this advice and I am very glad I did not follow it. I agree, as a newbie you really need to understand all the ins and outs about reloading, but you can just as easily learn to do it on a progressive as you can a single stage. To me, that's like saying every shooter should learn to shoot with a muzzle loading flintlock to learn the ins and outs of firearms before stepping up to more modern firearms.
What I do recommend, if you can find one, is a mentor. I did not have one, so it did take me a little longer to learn the ins and outs of reloading, I just learned it on a Dillon 550. I have since served in a mentor roll to half a dozen others new to reloading, all starting out on a Dillon 550. There is little that you can do on a single stage press, if anything, that you cannot do manually on a Dillon 550. The advantage is that once you've got it down you are cranking out 300 - 500 rounds an hour, depending on caliber. Plus, once your dies are set up in the removable toolheads you change calibers very quickly, I can change from 9mm to .40 S&W in five or six minutes.
I'm not slamming single stage presses or starter kits, but I am very glad I did not go that route. I just think there are viable alternatives that working your way up from a single stage or starter kit process. I think I saved a good bit of money in the long run as I've not had to buy any upgrades or additional features, I'm there from day one.
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Thanks for all the good info. It seems I will have a decision to make whether to go single stage or progressive.I have a bit of experience reloading lee classic loader .44mag.Very slow but gained some knowledge.I have dial verniers, mikes from a previous profession,and a RCBS scale.
The idea of going with single pieces makes sense, since I have some pieces to my reloading puzzle.
I will be reloading .357/.38 and .44 mag for now.
Once again. thanks for all your input.
Ploz
The idea of going with single pieces makes sense, since I have some pieces to my reloading puzzle.
I will be reloading .357/.38 and .44 mag for now.
Once again. thanks for all your input.
Ploz
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whelenshooter
Member
With all due respect to your experiance and input, I could not agree less. ...
What I do recommend, if you can find one, is a mentor. I did not have one, ...
I'm not slamming single stage presses or starter kits, but I am very glad I did not go that route. I just think there are viable alternatives that working your way up from a single stage or starter kit process. I think I saved a good bit of money in the long run as I've not had to buy any upgrades or additional features, I'm there from day one.
I have to partially agree with you; having a Mentor can be worth a years experience learning on your own with whatever gear you may have! It is also best to buy once, rather than buy something, then replace it with an upgrade later. I do say, however, that most of the gear you purchase to load with a single stage press is something you will need forever and will be used frequently even if you do use a progressive press. There are things you can do on a single stage press that are a pain in the butt to do on a progressive press. I prefer to use a single stage press when using a decapping die with dirty brass. I also prefer a single stage press when using a collet bullet puller. Some may say a kinetic bullet puller is better than a collet puller anyway. For most purposes they are, but I often make quickie rifle match ammunition by pulling the 147 or 150 grain FMJ bullets out of military ball 7.62 NATO or 30-06, then simply seating a 150 grain Sierra Matchking bullet in the military case with its powder charge and primer. A kinetic bullet puller is nowhere near as good for this purpose. This ammo works really well for High Power competition with my Match rifles. I also prefer using a single stage press when making most hunting ammunition for both rifle and handgun. I usually won't go through the bother of changing the caliber on my Dillon 550 if I'm not going to load more than one or two hundred rounds of ammunition, and I seldom load more than 100 rounds of hunting ammo. Often my hunting rounds for rifle use long stick powders that won't meter well from my Dillon powder measure. It is sometimes hardly worth the effort to use a progressive press if you need to trim cases after they are resized. Instead I will size them all, then trim them all, then use my Redding powder measure to charge my cases and seat the bullet in my single stage press immediately after charging it. Using my progressive press would do little to speed things up under these circumstances.
If a person doesn't know if reloading is for them, it is better to lose a little money on a relatively inexpensive a single stage reloading setup rather than losing a gob of money on expensive progressive gear.
I am a wholehearted believer in progressive presses. They are great for producing large quantities of high quality ammunition. However, since a person will always have uses for the single stage gear, I think they should buy it first, then go to the progressive press later.
The person in this case (ploz357) has reloading experience, already has some gear, and will be loading primarily .357 Magnum and .44 Magnum. Under these circumstances a progressive press MAY be the best next step, though I think he will still find a use for a single stage press.
The thing I find most amazing in this thread are the photos of the reloading setups that people have attached. I'm amazed at how clean and uncluttered their loading benches are! I'll have to see if I can get a decent picture of my loading bench to attach. Although mine is terribly cluttered, it is still organized. My bench is a prime example of ten pounds of stuff in a five pound bag.
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whelenshooter
Member
Here is my loading bench:
See what I mean by cluttered! I was just setting up my Dillon 550 to load Rainier 148 gr. double ended wadcutters in .38 Special cases when I took the photo. It may be a mess, but it is my mess, and I'm happy with it. This place is as comfortable to me as a favorite old coat.
See what I mean by cluttered! I was just setting up my Dillon 550 to load Rainier 148 gr. double ended wadcutters in .38 Special cases when I took the photo. It may be a mess, but it is my mess, and I'm happy with it. This place is as comfortable to me as a favorite old coat.
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Faulkner
Member
I appreciate informed and obviously experianced feedback. I did want to hone in on the two comments above that deserve due consideration that I did not give. It is tough to jump right into reloading and cough up $500+ the way I did if one was to then discover it was not an endeavor to their liking. I suspect there would be a whole lot less buyers remorse in this instance with a smaller initial investment . . . maybe I didn't give much consideration that someone would have a desire for reloading and then not like it.
By the way, you have a nice setup, I can see where it would be comfortable.
Fishslayer
US Veteran, Absent Comrade
Another vote for the Lee Classic Turret kit. My wife (wonderful gal!
) got me the kit last Christmas and so far I have about 1.5K of .45 & .357 from it. IMO it's great for someone who wants to load a moderate amount. For me it's a perfect match so far. I like that I have to handle each round a couple of times for inspection & whatnot, but I can still crank out a hunnert or so rounds in a fairly short time.The press itself is very robust. Some of the accessories are a bit plastic-cheesy but they work well. The interchangeable turret feature is VERY handy and works as advertised.
The scale it comes with is adequate but a bit awkward to use. Once you know what weight of what powder each cavity of the auto-disc throws the scale is not used that often if you aren't messing around with any "do not exceed" loads.
IMO the one thing that does NOT come with the kit that is essential is a bullet puller. I got the inertial type (hollow hammer) that works fine. A beginning handloader NEEDS one of these.
You'll be needing a digital caliper. I got one from Harbor Freight for $10.
Probly the biggest accessory $$$ is a brass tumbler. I got the one from Cabelas & it works great.
This is my little setup. I've since moved the press farther to the right on the bench. More efficient use of limited space.
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jal910s
Member
I recently purchased a Lyman crusher II pro kit from a local gun shop. It was about half the cost of the same kit direct from Lymans catalog and came with the advice of the people I have been purchasing guns and ammo from for the past few years, so they know more of what I am into and what I am capable of. I have heard no comments on any Lyman equipment but would like to know what you think. As I said, I purchased it about 2 weeks ago, but waited till I read the books completly before using it. In my first setting it took me an hour to load one round (set up and all). Fired it , then reloaded 100 in about 30 min. I had fun loading and shooting them.
I am in no way an expert on any part of the reloading aspect, just wanted to make it more affordable and fun! and in the end, isn't that the idea?
I am in no way an expert on any part of the reloading aspect, just wanted to make it more affordable and fun! and in the end, isn't that the idea?
whelenshooter
Member
I'm glad you asked that question! In my opinion, Lyman reloading manuals are the best on the market! Because they don't make bullets or powder, they publish the widest range of reloading data of any of the manuals. When I was a kid I learned how to reload by reading my Dad's Lyman 44th Edition Reloading Manual, and his Lee First Edition Reloading Handbook (that cost all of 98 cents) from cover to cover about a hundred times.
That said, however, in my actual experience, LYMAN HAS THE WORST CUSTOMER SERVICE OF ANY RELOADING COMPANY THAT I HAVE DONE BUSINESS WITH!!!!
For example: I purchased a Lyman Turbotumbler by mail order. It didn't work from the get-go. The company I ordered it from said I should call Lyman about it. I did, and they told me they had no proof that I didn't run it for days on end and they REFUSED TO DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT! Being a sucker, I purchased another one from a store about 70 miles away (at the time I lived in a small town in Idaho that didn't sell that kind of stuff). It ran for about an hour, then quit! I called Lyman AGAIN and again they REFUSED TO DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT! A week or so later I took it back to the store where I purchased it, and the store gave me my money back. I replaced the Turbotumbler with a Thumler's Ultra-Vibe 18, and I'm still using it 25 years later!
My next bad experience was with a Lyman power case trimmer. I purchased one, and it DIDN'T HAVE THE POWER TO TRIM A CASE. I called Lyman and they said, "TOO BAD!" They REFUSED TO DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT! I now have a Gracy power trimmer that I bought used from a friend. Even though I bought it used, they replaced a couple of parts for free.
My third bad experience was with my Lyman Model 450 Lube and Sizer. A fairly major part broke on it within a year of purchasing it. I felt it should not have broken, and I didn't feel that I abused it. They wouldn't replace the part for free, but they were magnanimous enough to allow me to BUY a replacement part. (Gee, wasn't that nice of them?!?)
I have had some minor problems with the interior finish of Lyman bullet moulds where they didn't seem to want to drop bullets. I have NEVER had a problem with an RCBS bullet mould. I always buy an RCBS or another brand of mould unless I can only find the particular bullet style I want in a Lyman mould.
In my experience, if you have problems with something made by RCBS, Lee, Hornady, Dillon, Forster, or Redding, they will just about break their own arm trying to get a free replacement in the mail to you. With Lyman, you are on your own.
I teach reloading and I have told this same story many times. I have also repeated it many times when people have asked me for recommendations on equipment. I think this is the first time that I have put it on a thread on the internet, however. What makes me happy is that Lyman has reaped what it it has sown. I'm sure I have cost them many times what it would have cost them to make things right with me back in the once-upon-a-times. To give them a little benefit of the doubt, most of this stuff happened quite a few years ago. Possibly their customer service has gotten better over the years, but I don't know. Of the many hundreds (and probably thousands, if I actually count it up) of dollars worth of reloading equipment I have purchased in my lifetime, little of it has been made by Lyman because of my past experiences with them. If Lyman ever does better by me, I will tell people. I can't see me deliberately buying Lyman equipment because of my past experiences, however. I'd like to hear about the experiences others have had with Lyman customer service, good or bad. I'd like to know if they are better now.
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