Sticky trigger on rebound

[toad67]

Recently purchased a 17-4 that was basically new. Took the gun to the range today and after 50 or so rounds, I noticed that the trigger has a slight catch on the rebound, it will return under its own power, but still noticeable. I noticed that there is some wear on the left side of the trigger and the case color is coming off. There seems to be some minor wear on the inside of the frame also.
With the hammer out and against the rebound slide it's perfect. The trigger pulls fine in both SA and DA.
I'm thinking that it just needs a little bit of trigger time to get broke in. Am I thinking correctly, or do I need to check into this a bit more?

 

[armorer951]

Your assessment may be correct, and some lubricant along with additional rounds fired may solve the issue.

To me, that shiny spot on the trigger is deep/severe enough to indicate contact from a high spot in the frame at the location. This apparent high spot may need attention if the hitch in the action does not resolve itself with some use.

You can verify the issue with the wear spot by reinstalling everything, but not tightening the sideplate screws all the way in, leaving just a bit of space at the front. If the trigger hesitation on return goes away, during this test, (use snap caps) then you can be sure of the source of the problem. You should also be able to feel the trigger dragging while cycling with just the trigger and rebound installed and the sideplate fully tightened.

Putting Dykem or "sharpie" on the frame opposite the drag mark and cycling the trigger with the plate on will show you exactly where the offending high spot is, if you decide at some point to carefully stone it down.

Carter

 

[toad67]

Loosening the side plate a slight bit seemed to make a little bit of difference. Seems like there is a bit of a high spot. With the hammer out and the side plate on, it's smooth as butter. If I hold the trigger back and cock/release the hammer, it's smooth also. What type of stone would be the best for doing this type of work, or should I just shoot it and let it break in on its own?
Also, how does the trigger stop work? Does one loosen the screw in the frame and move it out until you get the desired trigger travel?

 

[armorer951]

If you can verify the exact location of the high spot inside the frame you can use the end of a 1/2" x 1/2" x 6" Norton medium India stone to carefully relieve the problem spot. Go slowly, and keep away from other adjacent areas. I would re-coat the spot with Sharpie and re-check as you go, being careful to only remove as much as required.

Yes sir, the trigger stop can be adjusted as you describe. If you carry the gun or use it for personal protection, I would remove the stop, and re-install the screw in the cavity, just for safety reasons. The trigger stops can become loose, and inhibit trigger travel.

Carter

 

[toad67]

I just removed the hammer and tried it with the side plate on and rebound in place, it was smooth as butter. Also, if I hold the trigger back, the hammer operates very smooth also.

 

[armorer951]

That would suggest that the worn spot on the trigger is not the source of the sluggish trigger return.

Are you using a full length OEM rebound slide spring?

 

[Protocall_Design]

Going by the shiny spot on the trigger, I would guess that the trigger pivot pin is bent down slightly. It only takes a tiny amount of bend to do that. You might very carefully bend it up a bit and see if that helps.

 

[toad67]

It was a cut rebound spring with the cut end towards the trigger. It also had an aftermarket hammer spring with a rib, pointing rearward. All I had on hand was a 15 pound Wolff rebound spring, along with a factory K frame hammer spring, all seems to work good now. A bit heavier than I'm used to, but seems to function fine.
Would a cut rebound spring, with the cut end forward, somehow be the cause of my problems, and/or could the hammer spring also been part of the problem?

 

[minconrevo]

Ribbed hammer spring not part of your issue. You may find that a Powers action washer or two in the right spot on either/both sides of your trigger may be the fix. As otherwise mentioned, you might have a burr in the frame that would respond to a careful stroke or two of a hard Arkansas stone. The bent trigger pivot pin is unlikely but possible. Be VERY careful if you decide to true it to square in the frame.