Stock Finish Problem

[flundertaker]

Recent acquisition came with these presentation stocks. Not horrible but the left panel has some flaking of the finish. Not sure if this finish is even factory. Not a huge fan of the high gloss plastic appearance. Should I strip this off? If so, using what? What to refinish with? Leave them alone?

 

[VM]

Soaked in acetone will remove everything and not damage the medallions.
A clear spray enamel will mock the original factory appearance

 

[Vtgw938]

The way the chips go down to the wood I would say it is original lacquer. I also would strip with acetone and spray with lacquer to mimic the original finish. Individual stocks vary greatly in finish application so you can spend as much time or not on getting a perfect finish. Make sure all the finish is off, a light sanding and buffing with a scotch-brite pad helps. If you use lacquer verses urethane, you can complete the spraying all in one day (actually one extended application period if you want) with multiple light applications and no need to sand in between. You can buff with scotch-brite pads after to get a smoother finish and or cut the sheen or increase the sheen with addition of paste wax.

 

[2152hq]

Didn't S&W make the medallions out of plastic for a time?
I'm not familiar with the era and grip type(s) they were used on If there were specific ones, and it may not be the case here at all.
But if they are plastic it's a good chance soaking in acetone will make them into a blob of goo.
Acetone does that to many plastics.

Otherwise, if they are metal ones, acetone or even lacquer thinner soak will generally remove the stuff. Some people refinish them with shellac too. That's available as a spray finish now as well and can be applied evenly and quickly. It too can chip, can craze and even get soft if built up to much and then exposed to some heat.

Spray laq or poly work well for built up finish. Some of the poly is quick drying as well.
Use very thin coats.

 

[VM]

Great advice 2152hq
Plastic medallions 1951-2 approx.
OP’s grips are 70’s

 

[Vtgw938]

Lacquer dries almost on contact if not overdone and each coat melts the previous forming the bond. Furniture is most often finished with lacquer because it is so easy and quick (with proper safety precautions) and I assume why S&W used it. Polyurethane needs sanding between coats for a mechanical bond and dries much slower but protects better and isn't apt to chip down to the wood. I haven't tried brushing lacquer but I hear it can be difficult so if brushing is the only option, I would use polyurethane.

 

[Jaco1234]

Acetone to remove finish
Minwax Helmsman spar varnish spray. Use a number of thin coats. Rub with extra fine steel wool or 600 grit paper, wipe to remove dust between coats