Stock slippage: (photos)As I mentioned in my Range Report, after firing 1st round.

[GKH]

... my stock slips to the 5th position. Is there a way to lock it down so this will not happen? I'm tall - 6'4", and I like the stock all the way back. And, it latches in place there. But, when I fire that first round it clicks up to position 5.

I turned that knob on the bottom of the stock lever. But, didn't really notice any change. And, I didn't want to mess with it further until I got some guidance.

Thanks!

 

[Optimus Prime]

I'd pull the stock off and check the holes in the extension tube. Sounds like there's something in there preventing the peg from fully catching.

 

[GKH]

I'd pull the stock off and check the holes in the extension tube. Sounds like there's something in there preventing the peg from fully catching.

I'll have a look at stock removal instructions, and see what I can see.

Thanks!

 

[GKH]

Move to New York State!

Then, it will be pinned in place fully-open, and never move.

Perfect! Let me tell ya; it was a strange feeling to have the stock collapse down a notch when shooting the first round of each clip!!

I would then adjust it back out all the way just to have it happen again! So, I got used to position 5. Lol!

But, I want position 6!!

 

[chuck s]

Instructions? Just pull down on the lever detent beyond the point the lever moves it. Explaining it just makes it seem difficult.

-- Chuck

 

[Rustpot]

Instructions? Just pull down on the lever detent beyond the point the lever moves it. Explaining it just makes it seem difficult.

-- Chuck

Pull down instead of squeezing it toward the tube.

Are you sure you're at 6 and not slightly beyond it, or is there a significant amount of movement?

Does this happen from the recoil such that you're pressing harder with your shoulder, or does it just pop loose? Your shoulder should be tight to the stock before you begin firing, and if it's from recoil you should be able to recreate it by pressing on the back of the stock since the .22 doesn't recoil that much.

 

[GKH]

Pull down instead of squeezing it toward the tube.

Are you sure you're at 6 and not slightly beyond it, or is there a significant amount of movement?

Does this happen from the recoil such that you're pressing harder with your shoulder, or does it just pop loose? Your shoulder should be tight to the stock before you begin firing, and if it's from recoil you should be able to recreate it by pressing of the stock since the .22 doesn't recoil that much.

As you can see from the photos that I just took, the last setting is beveled around the top edge unlike the other holes (positions) which are drilled straight in. I think this is the problem. Before, I took the stock off, I held it to my shoulder pressing hard. But, it did stay locked. Apparently just the little recoil is enough to knock the pin out.
Is this a defect from the factory?

 

[bonedog]

Mine is the same way... I think it's a defect...

 

[GKH]

Mine is the same way... I think it's a defect...

I guess it doesn't matter if the shooter isn't using position 6. But, I have long arms, and the longer reach is best.

I might give S&W a call.

'Just talked to S&W. They want me to send it in. They are sending me a shipping label, etc,,,. They're putting a new stock on it.

 

[MrYoga]

Stock Removal

How did you remove the stock?
You mentioned that you were going to check the instructions. Do you have a schematic and parts list? I googled and couldn't find any info.
Thanks

 

[DownRange&Upwind]

How did you remove the stock?
You mentioned that you were going to check the instructions. Do you have a schematic and parts list? I googled and couldn't find any info.
Thanks

Schematic? Parts list? Googled it? Seriously?..Im not being rude, I may may be misinterpreting your post, if so I appologise... but all you have to do is litteraly instead of squeezing the tab to move it to one of the 6 positions, pull it directly AWAY(all the way down toward the bottom) from the stock and this will allow the stock to be fully removed and slides off in seconds. Repeat to re-install.

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

How did you remove the stock?
You mentioned that you were going to check the instructions. Do you have a schematic and parts list? I googled and couldn't find any info.
Thanks

Pull down on the lever and hold while sliding the stock off to the rear.

 

[MrYoga]

Repair Manuals

Schematic? Parts list? Googled it? Seriously?..Im not being rude, I may may be misinterpreting your post, if so I appologise... but all you have to do is litteraly instead of squeezing the tab to move it to one of the 6 positions, pull it directly AWAY(all the way down toward the bottom) from the stock and this will allow the stock to be fully removed and slides off in seconds. Repeat to re-install.

Apology accepted
And thanks for that tidbit of info. The detente in my stock is not beveled.
I was asking about a schematic for any future work that I may perform on my gun. I do most of my own repairs on just about everything I own and have quite a collection of service manuals. On the rare occasion that I farm out repairs, I still like to research about the equipment so that I don't get BSed.
So, anybody know where to get a schematic of the S&W M&P15-22 Rifle?

 

[GKH]

Apology accepted
And thanks for that tidbit of info. The detente in my stock is not beveled.
I was asking about a schematic for any future work that I may perform on my gun. I do most of my own repairs on just about everything I own and have quite a collection of service manuals. On the rare occasion that I farm out repairs, I still like to research about the equipment so that I don't get BSed.
So, anybody know where to get a schematic of the S&W M&P15-22 Rifle?

Indeed! It slid right off for me. Great help here! These guys are great! And, as I stated, I made the call to S&W. And they advised me to wait for the shipping label, and then return my 15-22 so they can address the issue. Great Customer Service!

Next week, I go on an 8 day motorcycle trip. So what better time to get this resolved, right? When I get back, my 15-22 will be home. And, let the fun begin, again!

 

[akviper]

Try unscrewing the nut a few turns. If it is too tight combined with the slight bevel it might cause the stock slip. Unscrewing the nut a bit will allow more of the catch to engage. Good luck.

 

[GKH]

Try unscrewing the nut a few turns. If it is too tight combined with the slight bevel it might cause the stock slip. Unscrewing the nut a bit will allow more of the catch to engage. Good luck.

Thanks! Does anyone else care to compare their stock tube to what mine looks like? I'm curious. One member has indicated his stock has the bevel in the 6th position, as well. Anybody else's?

Thanks!

 

[DownRange&Upwind]

Thanks! Does anyone else care to compare their stock tube to what mine looks like? I'm curious. One member has indicated his stock has the bevel in the 6th position, as well. Anybody else's?

Thanks!

Sure, I'll upload a few large pics of my rifle's buffer tube. Just let me take the dog for a walk, and I will upload them then.

EDIT: Ok here are 2 pics of my 15 22's buffer tube. As you can see it is not like yours at all. My rifle is a DUU3XXX serial version, with a end of June 2010 Mfg. date. This thing is fresh from the factory. I would personaly call S&W and get it fixed, but being a one piece lower, you will have to get a whole new lower and get the serials switched over. I know this for a fact, as I called S&W and asked them if the buffer tube were to ever break during the course of the years by some freak accident( hey its good to have these answers in advance lol). How could I get it repaired, as its a one piece lower. The exchange I mentioned was the S&W reps reply to me. They may "look" beveled at a certain angle, but they are 100% directly down and a perfect circle, and each of the 6 slots lock perfectly into place with my MOE stock. Any way here are two pictures my buffer tube on my 15 22.

 

[GKH]

That explains it for sure, then. Thanks for posting your photos. The shipping label from S&W should be arriving here any day. And, yes, the gentleman that I spoke with at customer service said they would be giving me a new lower stock.

Sure, I'll upload a few large pics of my rifle's buffer tube. Just let me take the dog for a walk, and I will upload them then.

EDIT: Ok here are 2 pics of my 15 22's buffer tube. As you can see it is not like yours at all. My rifle is a DUU3XXX serial version, with a end of June 2010 Mfg. date. This thing is fresh from the factory. I would personaly call S&W and get it fixed, but being a one piece lower, you will have to get a whole new lower and get the serials switched over. I know this for a fact, as I called S&W and asked them if the buffer tube were to ever break during the course of the years by some freak accident( hey its good to have these answers in advance lol). How could I get it repaired, as its a one piece lower. The exchange I mentioned was the S&W reps reply to me. They may "look" beveled at a certain angle, but they are 100% directly down and a perfect circle, and each of the 6 slots lock perfectly into place with my MOE stock. Any way here are two pictures my buffer tube on my 15 22.

 

[chuck s]

My lower receiver extension stock position holes are all properly cut.

Position #6 is waaaaaaaaay too long for a proper nose-to-charging-handle stock weld with this rifle and I'm searching for a way to fill that hole and maybe #5 as well.

Nose-to-charging-handle stock weld is repeatable, a key to accurate shooting.

-- Chuck

 

[GKH]

My lower receiver extension stock position holes are all properly cut.

Position #6 is waaaaaaaaay too long for a proper nose-to-charging-handle stock weld with this rifle and I'm searching for a way to fill that hole and maybe #5 as well.

Nose-to-charging-handle stock weld is repeatable, a key to accurate shooting.

-- Chuck

Chuck: are you saying even though I'm tall with a 36" sleeve length, I might be better off using position 4 or 5 for accuracy, even though it might feel scrunched up? And, I don't mean this sarcastically. This is all very new to me. And, I as I had said, after the first few times of the stock collapsing to position 5, I got used to it. But, it did feel a bit cramped.

 

[DownRange&Upwind]

No problem GKH. Glad to upload the pics to help you out. Look at it this way, you get a brand spankin' new lower. So while its at S&W have em' go ahead and update everything to the newest specs, if its not already. Get it back, have a blast.. no pun intended. Lol

 

[HalfSwiss]

GKH, I wear the same sleeve length as you do. I not only use mine on position 6, but I also added a slip on recoil pad made explicitly for this kind of stock in order to add a half inch. I have no problem with stock weld nor is accuracy affected. It comes down to personal choice IMO.

 

[CIAWEASEL]

Butt pad info.....

Interesting info you guys. Wondering where is the best info on what butt pads are available for my stock..... Thanx!

 

[patrickmn]

If they have to exchange lowers, doesn't that mean you will have to have a store do the exchange?

 

[GKH]

If they have to exchange lowers, doesn't that mean you will have to have a store do the exchange?

Thanks again, everyone!
One of the things that came up after mentioning to a couple of friends of mine that shoot was; "Can a person actually ship a firearm through the mail that isn't FFL?" Apparently, so. S&W is sending me the label, insuring the rifle, and everything. All I have to do is put it in the box (w/o any optics, or extras), and mail it back using their label. And, they take it from there.
But, I thought that strange, as well.

 

[Rustpot]

I wear a 36/37 sleeve dress shirt, so I guess I have the same length arms. I use the position 2-3 clicks in from longest. I also use the gun in a carbine method and not a rifle one.

By that I mean my shoulders are square to the target and the gun comes straight out. Support hand goes out as far as comfortable for stability and control, my head curls down to the stock to see the sights, and the gun is as close as possible to me (on an AR the rule of thumb is nose a couple inches from the charging handle to avoid being konked be recoil).

This also makes a short fixed LOP gun like a 10/22 that most people find too short very usable since you optimally don't need more than 7-10". But using a regular rifle would be way to uncontrollable since the LOP puts the bulk of the gun so far away and you can't get your reaction hand out far enough to stabilize.

 

[patrickmn]

What I meant to ask is, since the lower receiver will have to be replaced, and that is where the serial number is located, if you get a new lower you will get a new serial number. From what I've read, if you get a new barrel for a Ruger Mark pistol you have to go through an FFL because it has the serial number on it.

I know if you are just having work done you wouldn't need an FFL. I made sure of that before I bought it because if I had needed to send it back for the new bolt I wanted to make sure I could do it myself. But getting a new gun isn't having work done.

 

[HalfSwiss]

Interesting info you guys. Wondering where is the best info on what butt pads are available for my stock..... Thanx!

As a starting point, try midwayusa.com> gunsmithing> AR-15, AR-10> AR-15> buttplates and recoil pads (in the long list of items). I would have given you a link but after trying twice and it wouldn't work, I had to resort to the above.

 

[chuck s]

The key to stock length is pretty simple. Can you conveniently touch the tip of your nose to the back of the charging handle? If not the stock is too long.

This "stock weld" will seem highly unnatural at first but is the only way to achieve a constant, repeatable eye-sight position with this straight stocked, pistol gripped rifle.

-- Chuck

 

[CIAWEASEL]

Thanx halfswiss....I finally figured out it is considered a M4 stock(DUH)!