When in doubt replace mainspring and screw (OME)
Strain screw length
- Thread starter BC38
- Start date
OP
Got my new mainspring yesterday - complete with screw. Though oddly enough the screw was significantly shorter than the original (?).
Anyway, I put the new spring in and the trigger is much heavier and the hammer hits with appreciably harder force.
Comparing the two springs it was obvious that the one that came in the gun is thinner, especially at the stirrup end.
Next range trip I'll give it a try and see how it works now. Thanks for the advice guys.
Anyway, I put the new spring in and the trigger is much heavier and the hammer hits with appreciably harder force.
Comparing the two springs it was obvious that the one that came in the gun is thinner, especially at the stirrup end.
Next range trip I'll give it a try and see how it works now. Thanks for the advice guys.
OP
Another question for you guys about this one.
There are two pretty significant scratches in the sideplate on this otherwise nearly pristine old revolver.
How likely is it that a replacement sideplate would be a drop-in without needing hand fitting?
I would get the original refinished if it were possible to do so and make it match, but I'm thinking that is even less likely than getting a replacement that fits right.
There are two pretty significant scratches in the sideplate on this otherwise nearly pristine old revolver.
How likely is it that a replacement sideplate would be a drop-in without needing hand fitting?
I would get the original refinished if it were possible to do so and make it match, but I'm thinking that is even less likely than getting a replacement that fits right.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
Not too likely, but possible. A different one may only need a little hand fitting is more likely.
OP
So what does hand fitting one for a revolver this old usually entail? Probably a takes pretty well-trained and skilled person to do it I'm guessing.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
You just need a half round needle file and some time. Find any tight spots and file a bit to make it fit easier. Keep going around the perimeter where it mates with the frame. Use a red or blue magic marker on the edge of the sideplate and see where it gets rubbed off when you put it on the frame. File a slight angle on the inside part of the sideplate so you only are fitting about 1/16" thickness around the outside edge.
OP
Thanks for the good detailed description.
That was kinda' what I was afraid of - I wondered how likely it was that a replacement might be too "loose" of a fit in places, and what to do if it was - as well as how hard it is to do something about it...
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Protocall_Design
Vendor
If it's too loose in spots, it just looks bad, but won't matter if the screws all screw in.
OP
That makes sense from a mechanical standpoint.
But it is already good mechanically.
Making it look better is the whole point.
I guess a slight gap here and there would still look better than the two big scratches in the original.
Maybe I should just touch up the scratches with some Oxpho and call it good.
OP
Just an update on the light strikes. Put most of a box of ammo through it at the gravel pit today with zero light strikes. Looks like the new mainspring was the answer.
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