Suggestion of a .22 Revolver

zogger

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I am thinking that my next SW revolver will be a .22. It will be for range use and general plinking. I am looking for suggestions. I am open to either stainless or blued. Also open to K/L or J frame.

Help me decide how to spent my $s!

Thanks!
 
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To me, the best overall choice would be a model 18, a 4" K frame, if you will be carrying it at all. If you have smaller hands a 4" model 34/63 might work just as well, but I find the extra weight of the larger frame to be a plus. If it will be a 90+% range gun a model 17 (6" K frame) would be an excellent choice as well. Good luck in your decision.
 
The gold standard IMHO is the K-22/Model 17 (blue) or 617 (stainless) lineup. Pick your barrel length from 4", 6" or 8 3/8". Some of the 617's are 10 shot, if that floats your boat. Wide range of prices depending on vintage, condition, unusual configuration. $500-$1500
 
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"The gold standard IMHO is the K-22/Model 17 (blue) or 617 (stainless) lineup. Pick your barrel length from 4", 6" or 8 3/8". Some of the 617's are 10 shot, if that floats your boat. Wide range of prices depending on vintage, condition, unusual configuration. $500-$1500"
I agree with Peak53 100%
For target/range shooting nothing beats a Model 17 8-3/8 inch barrel.

The only problem is when you miss you can't blame the gun...
 
If you will never carry it, then one of the K-frame models 17, 18 or 617. These are all excellent but they tend to weigh around 40 oz. If you want something smaller, the stainless steel J-frame Model 63-5 is an 8-shot .22lr with a 3" barrel weighing 26 oz.
 
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617 10 shot all the way.
 
Range and hunting...... a 6" k-frame K-22 masterpiece or Model 17

Carrying in the woods while hiking/fishing/hunting (rifle) a 4" J frame Model 34/blue or 63/stainless.

If you can have only one...................... 4" K-frame K-22 Combat Masterpiece or Model 18.


All that said; I have a bit of a soft spot for my 4" ...... heavy underlug barrel...... but custom round butt.......... Model 617 no dash.
 
I had a 4-inch 617 that I foolishly parted with 20 years ago. I would heartily recommend it for plinking and target shooting; however, I enjoy the light weight and accuracy of my 4-inch Mod. 63 kit. It's easier to pack around. I paid $700 for my 1982 Mod. 63 that came with box and papers.
 
Some great suggestions. Thanks!

There is a gun show this weekend, so I'll look around a bit.
 
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I have a model 17-3 and it's a fantastic handgun for all the uses you describe, especially range use and general plinking. I've always thought about maybe picking up a model 18 or a Ruger bearcat but when it comes to spending the money, I realize I already own the only .22 revolver I'll ever need. Good luck in your search.
 
Model 63 (j Frame) or Model 18 (K Frame). I have a 1981 Model 63 and it is a great revolver. I put some target stocks on it. Don't have a Model 18 but that will be my next S&W revolver.

Both of these bring high prices so don't be surprised at the asking prices if you can find one at the gun show. Went to gun show this past weekend. No Model 18's and the two Model 63's I saw had $900+ price tags on them.

I bought mine off Gunbroker 4 years ago and paid $675. Glad I bought it then.

Good Luck!
 

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For what it's worth, I have both the 4" and 6" M617 and I find myself shooting the 4" most of the time. And I'm just as accurate with it. Seems to just balance better.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I've owned most of them. I will vote K frame 17/617. The J framed 22's are often said to be more difficult to shoot accurately due to their diminutive size. I'd agree based on my ownership experience.
FWIW, I'd also vote 4" in the 617. 6" in the unlugged 17. Balance is similar.
 
I FAVOR THE 4" VERSION OF THE 10 SHOT , M 617.....

IMHO, THE BALANCE IS PERFECT. IT IS VERY ACCURATE, AND IS RIGHT AT HOME, BOTH ON THE RANGE, AND IN THE FIELD. I LIKE TO CARRY IT IN A SHOULDER RIG, WHERE IT IS WELL PROTECTED, AND VERY COMFORTABLE......

MINE IS MODIFIED WITH A RED RAMP FRONT SIGHT, A WEIGAND COMBAT REAR SIGHT, A PLUG IN THE IL HOLE, AND A SET OF AHREND STOCKS..........
 

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I've given up on K-frame .22s. I've had Model 18s and Model 17s, and pre-Models of each one. Every one was a pain to load and unload due to very tight chambers.

I wanted to like them - I really did. I tried polishing the chambers, scrupulous cleaning, everything. No luck.

I had a Model 63 that was a joy to load, unload, and shoot. I would look for a 4" version if I was you.

These days my only .22 revolvers are an H&R 999 and a Ruger Single Six.
 
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I'll echo many of the other suggestions. My favorite 22 revolver is the 617. I was waffling between the 617 or he 63 and for my xxl hands, the 617 felt more comfortable. It's a tack driver ALMOST on par with the accuracy of the model 41. Mine is 4". But..... I'd love to find a 63 to bring home and make it my pack bag. I have a ruger LCRx 22 that weighs very little and is also a 8 shot that's got that duty. It's a very lightweight 22 that ride in a simply rugged pancake holster and goes for walks with me in the woods or archery hunting.

I know I know....it's no smith and it doesn't have the feel or trigger of the 617 but the weight savings had me carrying it more but shooting the 617 more.

Best,
Rick
 
If I had to start thinning my S&W herd, one of the last head of stock that would be culled is a 1948 vintage K-22, forerunner to the modern Models 17, 18, and 617. If I were starting over, that would be one of the, if not the only, gun I would look for. FWIW, I own a pre-War Heavy Frame Target and a bunch of H-S autos as well as a H-S revolver, but the K-22 is my fave of the bunch.

Froggie

PS The 4" would seem useful to have as one of a couple of 22 revolvers, but if I only were to buy one, I'd personally go with the 6".

PPS As I've said elsewhere, I'd want a 38/357 revolver as well... a matching K-22 and K-38 or perhaps a 6" Model 19 would be a winning pair. I have a just such a pair that dates to 1948 (K-22 & -38) thatjustseemto be "right."
 
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Model 63 (j Frame) or Model 18 (K Frame). I have a 1981 Model 63 and it is a great revolver. I put some target stocks on it. Don't have a Model 18 but that will be my next S&W revolver.


Good Luck!

If your hands tend toward small you may like Herrett Shooting
Stars over targets, I know I do. JMHO/YMMV
 
I bought a new model 63 with 3" barrel about 2 months ago I haven't shot it a lot but like it. It is not too heavy and the 3" barrel will be fine for plinking, fishing, varmints, and walks along the swamp.
When I first shot it I noticed that every once in a while in single action the hammer would not catch in cocked position but try to fall forward unless I pulled it back "HARD". I read several posts here and elsewhere about machining crud being left inside the works of new guns, so took the grips off to see if that might be the problem, I didn't find much but swabbed it out and tried the action with grips off, it locked back every time. I put the grips back on and the problem returned. Then I noticed what I should have seen first off, the back of the hammer spur was hitting the top of the rubber grips, just enough to keep it from locking back every time. It had even made a small indention in the rubber. So I loosened and checked the grips to see if they could be slipped down a bit, not possible, so I got a razor blade and shaved about a 32nd of an inch off the top of the grips to let the hammer travel back and fully lock every time, so far the problem is solved.
It really is a fine gun and I expect it to be in the family for many years.
Steve W
 
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I am thinking that my next SW revolver will be a .22. It will be for range use and general plinking. I am looking for suggestions. I am open to either stainless or blued. Also open to K/L or J frame.

Help me decide how to spent my $s!

Thanks!

Good thinking! Best money I think I've ever spent on a revolver has been either a 4" or a 8 3/8" barreled 617. The 4" has had a zillion rounds through it, but the long tube one is a great small game hunting revolver. I have other K framed .22s as well, from a Pre-WWII K22 to a 17-6 with full underlug, but no J framed ones.
 
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