Suggestions on how to fix chip in stainless trigger guard
- Thread starter Blade37db
- Start date
Thanks guys. I think I'll leave it be at this point as some have suggested. Too much of a ***** factor and I don't trust myself enough (especially with any type of "hammer" even if it's a jewelers). If I do anything, a few light sanding touches may do enough without the risk of making it worse. It's obviously not a safe queen and is far from perfect already.
That revolver is a shooter. Any dings or scratches give it character. Kinda like Peyton Manning's nose.
What WALKINGHORSE said
I came across this thread when searching for some info on 3rd gen S&Ws, and would really like to thank everyone, this thread is just great. I am not a collector, and the few pistols I have are for carry and the range, but I do get a bit concerned (obsessed? 
) with an occasional nick or gouge. Glad to see that I am not alone, maybe we should start a support group.
) with an occasional nick or gouge. Glad to see that I am not alone, maybe we should start a support group.
one eye joe
US Veteran
WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT--I REPEAT DO NOT--GO NEAR THIS REVOLVER WITH A DREMEL TOOL ! ! ! ANY POLISHING OR REMOVAL OF METAL WITH A JEWELERS FILE, OR AN ABRASIVE--CAREFULLY, ONE STROKE AT A TIME--WILL NOT GET YOU INTO DEEP TROUBLE. KNOW WHEN TO STOP--YOU CAN ONLY MAKE THIS LOOK BETTER, BUT NOT PERFECT. STOP BEFORE YOU MAKE IT LOOK WORSE.........
IF it were deep......
It it were a deep chip I believe that the drill would be to touch it with TIG and build it up, then polish it down. But in your case just smoothing it is probably the best approach.
It it were a deep chip I believe that the drill would be to touch it with TIG and build it up, then polish it down. But in your case just smoothing it is probably the best approach.
Last edited:
Send it back to S&W. This quality issue must not be allowed to continue. Just kidding!!! Nice gun.
My old Model 10-5 that was carried for years by a policeman and has the scars to prove it has become my favorite gun to take out to the range and shoot. I put a set of used Pachmayr Grippers on it and it is is very accurate with a great feel when shooting it.
It's condition also gave me the comfort level to take the side plate completely off, clean it out and relube it, and improve what was already a really nice trigger and firing action.
I know how you feel about the little ding on your gun, which is probably one of the reasons I tend to sell the really pristine guns and own and shoot those not as minty. I did the same thing with my road bicycles back in that day.
My old Model 10-5 that was carried for years by a policeman and has the scars to prove it has become my favorite gun to take out to the range and shoot. I put a set of used Pachmayr Grippers on it and it is is very accurate with a great feel when shooting it.
It's condition also gave me the comfort level to take the side plate completely off, clean it out and relube it, and improve what was already a really nice trigger and firing action.
I know how you feel about the little ding on your gun, which is probably one of the reasons I tend to sell the really pristine guns and own and shoot those not as minty. I did the same thing with my road bicycles back in that day.
Attachments
Last edited:
I'd leave it as is but if you just have to do something, check Smith357 post #9. And don't plan on doing away with the mark completely but minimizing it.
AveragEd
Member
I have an S&W Doug Koenig Edition 1911 in .38 Super from the Performance Center. It came with a fiber optic front sight and as I use the gun almost exclusively for bullseye work, I found that sight too imprecise and wanted to change it to the black Patridge that is the preferred sight for that usage. I have a jig-like tool for moving or replacing dovetailed sights so obtained a sight from S&W and set out to make the change.
Long story short, between our 16-month-old granddaughter "helping" me and my not noticing that the tool had shifted downward slightly, the threaded portion of the sight "pusher" was bearing against the upper surface of the slide and left some very obvious deep grooves in it. As I paid a lot of money for that beautiful limited-production gun, I was heartsick but took the gun to the local gunsmith I use and ashamedly asked if he could salvage the gun's original appearance. A few weeks, the gun looked like new.
I don't know how he fixed it but given my experience with damage a lot worse than yours, I would seek the advice of a gunsmith if the mark really bugs you. Seeing it, I can tell you that my guy certainly could make it disappear. In case you would like to speak with him, his name is Chad and his shop is McCauslin Rifles, Carlisle, Pennsylvania, 717-258-6607.
Ed
Long story short, between our 16-month-old granddaughter "helping" me and my not noticing that the tool had shifted downward slightly, the threaded portion of the sight "pusher" was bearing against the upper surface of the slide and left some very obvious deep grooves in it. As I paid a lot of money for that beautiful limited-production gun, I was heartsick but took the gun to the local gunsmith I use and ashamedly asked if he could salvage the gun's original appearance. A few weeks, the gun looked like new.
I don't know how he fixed it but given my experience with damage a lot worse than yours, I would seek the advice of a gunsmith if the mark really bugs you. Seeing it, I can tell you that my guy certainly could make it disappear. In case you would like to speak with him, his name is Chad and his shop is McCauslin Rifles, Carlisle, Pennsylvania, 717-258-6607.
Ed
sasu
Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2007
- Messages
- 720
- Reaction score
- 644
I did the same mistake with a Kimber. I have not corrected the ugly gouges yet but my plan is to file the protruding bits back to slide surface level, leave the pits as is and then apply a blackening/browning solution to hide the bear metal exposed by all these activities. The learning curve...
Try just looking at the other side.
Renegade19
Member
Ask a local jeweler or someone who reconditions stainless steel props.
That was going to be my suggestion, if you find the right gunsmith to do it. My Krebs Custom "CROWBAR" M28 has a "semi-Fitzed" trigger guard, modified for a right handed shooter. It would clean up your chip and is a cool old school touch that works, especially if you have big hands or shoot with gloves.
Last edited:
