Suggestions on the best path to a .357 with moon clips.

JKN

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After shooting my new 610 I am hooked on the moon clips. Now I would like a 6" .357 as well but I am not sure what the best plan is. The easiest would be to modify a bone stock 6" 686 no dash that was my dad's but I am much too attached to it to permanently modify it in any way. So that means a second cylinder assy ($100-$150), cutting it for clips ($175, Ouch!), fitting it to the gun ($20 or less if I can do it, $$$ if I have to send it somewhere). So I am at $350 or more. Are these estimates about right? If so I am probably better just waiting until I find a deal on a second gun that someone has already done this too.

Thanks,
John
 
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I would say the easiest way to do it is to buy a new gun cut for moon clips. I don't know what L frame 357 is already cut to go 7 shot, but the 627 Pro and the 627 PC guns are 8 shot guns already cut for moon clips. The Pro has a 4 inch barrel and the PC has a 5" barrel.
 
In a similar boat as the OP, with my old 686.

$350 is still significantly less than any used S&W cut for moon clips I have seen in ANY cartridge in a K, L, or N frame.
 
I also am very fond of moon clip enabled revolvers

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Watch eBay and GB. Sometimes you can find parts there for lower prices

I just sold a spare 686 cylinder, that was cut for moon clips by TK custom,to a fellow Forum member for $175

It had been sitting in my project drawer too long and i figure that project was not going to happen

Now for some advice. . . .
You need to try a 357 moon clipped revolver before you do this.

Moon clips designed for auto loading cartridges are nice and thick. The clip engages the LARGE extractor groove. That groove is defined in SAAMI and CIP standards and is virtually the same brand to brand

Moon clips designed for rimmed handgun cartridges are much thinner. The clip engages the tiny groove above the rim. That groove is NOT defined in SAAMI or CIP standards and is totally different from brand to brand. This is why some moon clip manufacturers offer a variety of thicknesses. Some brass does not have any groove and will not work with a moon clip .

You have learned how nice and positive it is to reload your revolver with the 10MM Auto ammunition moon clipped.

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357 magnum ammunition wobbles and the moon clip flexes because it is so thin (when compared to a 310/610 moon clip). It takes much more skill for a rapid reload. Many folks do not like it. . . . . .

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All of that being said, I even like moon clips in 357 revolvers. Especially in revolvers used for personal protection. Not fo the speed of a reload, but for the positive ejection of all cartridges when using a short ejector rod snubby. My reload is usually a speed strip
 
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Just get another gun. Maybe a 7 shot.

Use Starline brass and TK Custom moon clips. The cheap moon clips are fine for rimless (auto) but don't work well for rimmed (revolver) brass. Moonclips for rimmed brass are brand specific because there is no industry standard for the groove above the rim on them. There is an industry standard for the extractor groove on (semi) auto brass.

I use 38 Short Colt for my 357 guns and have very fast reloads on 6, 7, and 8 shot cylinders. The Starline brass has the same groove on all their 38 caliber brass, including Short Colt, Long Colt, Special, 357 Mag. That means the same moonclips will work with all those different brass if it's all Starline.
 
Yes! Moonclips are the best! You do see the potential of loading and unloading a cylinder rather quickly!
You are on the right track. Working on that cylinder will be cheaper than buying a new gun. But hey, let's have an excuse to buy a new gun!
The 686 pc and pro 5"ers are both cut for moonclips. As are the new 627s and 327s.
I only have 9 moonclipped revolvers, but if it were up to me, EVERY REVOLVER should be moonclipped.

Below is my 686 pc 5" .
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Just an afterthought. Several companies like Speedbeez and Safariland do sell "loading blocks " for almost all the differently configured guns. Even loading blocks for J frames. Pictured below are some blocks I have used on the 7 shot L frames. You can get some if you dont wish to modify the cylinder. I get asked about them alot at the range..
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These blocks will even work on a cylinder cut for clips! As they dont interfere when using a cut cylinder or vice versa.
 
Thanks to everyone for taking the time to provide such a detailed response. I think you have covered all the bases. As the 686 is primarily fed .38 WC loaded from a 10 gallon bucket of mystery brass and is not for competition the loading block and a speed loader solution is a winner. That also leaves more funds for the 625 that is next on the must have list.
Thanks,
John
 
Groo here
I have a "few" M 25/325/625 45acp revolvers and a Ruger Gp100 10mm.
Also 2 M327 revolvers cut for moon clips.
Stay with auto cases for moon clips [+1 colt-saa]
If you want to stay with the 357 performance, try to find a 38super
revolver...[or cut a 9mm]
I did not get an S&W 10 mm as I think the frame is too large for the round.[The GP 100 works well and a NEW m-66 would be nice too
if they made it,]
The 45acp S&W will take anything from CCI shot to underwood 250gr
45super .[if you can]
A 10mm revolver will take most any load [even the "nukler} ones]
And light 40 range also...
 
I know a forum member that had a model 66 I believe for sale aat one point, but I do not think he sold it. I would gladly check if you would like. I believe it was TK or TS modified
 
I really like my 586 L-Comp with moon clips but keep an eye out for those rounds where they eliminated the extractor groove. These are Blazers.
 

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Pete,
Thanks for the offer to look into the model 66 but I think I have a new plan.
 
Grooveless .38 brass? That's a new one. I'm sure someone got a bonus for saving a few cents a box. That's annoying but not as bad as the small primer .45 ACP brass. I usually check my brass pretty well but I fear the day I manage to grab one off the floor with all of mine without noticing and then try to stuff a large primer in it.
 
Ha! I once rammed a 9mm in a 38 short resizer! It wasn't even mine! The guy shooting next to me , was shooting 9s at the range. One flew right into my box full of loose shorts.
That die was off the set for about a month until I figured out how to bang it out, I was so mad. All these thoughts of torching it had come to mind. I'm glad I came to my senses and figured out how to take it out. Calmly.
 
Don't see any practical purpose how moon clips surpass a speed loader. One disadvantage of full moon clips for me is you can't unload/reload a partially empty cylinder...you have to dump all the brass/unfired rounds. So if you shoot 3 rounds and want to reload, you have no option to do so with moon clips. I believe the WW 1 revolvers used half-moon clips so you can reload a half-empty cylinder. Just my thoughts, which may be way off base...they usually are. Moon clips don't allow partial reloads.
 
I have a Model 627 Pro Series. I absolutely love this gun. I load using plated round nose bullets and with the moon clips reloads are super fast. I'm sure it also helps that the factory chamfers the cylinder. The gun is also very accurate. Just a winning combination in my opinion.
 

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Personally, I'd shop for a 6" GP100. They can be gotten for less than a comparable S&W and are made like a tank.

I had one that I should never have sold.

Or shop for a 6" Chiappa Rhino (they come cut for clips)...

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No offense intended, but that is one ugly-*** gun, the Chiappa Rhino. And expensive.
 
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