oversize
Member
If you get some streaks of rust on the surface is there a way to fix it without taking your pistol to a gun smith?
Surface rust
- Thread starter oversize
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Provided is is still surface rust and not pitted into the metal, a good gun oil and 0000 steel wool (bronze wool is better but not as readily available). Rub "lightly" with a good amount of oil between the steel wool and the gun. Even if it is more serious, this method will help stop the rust and clean up most of it, but the pitting will most likely show. I hesitate to mention using cold blue, because it seldom will match and the appearance may be harmed worse than the look of the rust. In some cases it can be used effectively, but only on shooter grade guns, not collectables.
DWalt
Member
Some supermarkets carry copper or bronze wool for use on pots and pans. Some people use bronze pennies and oil, bore cleaner for rust removal (the old-style pennies, not the new ones).
gwpercle
Member
Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Rust Remover is good for removing rust without removing the blue finish. Be gentle when working with old guns, the trick is to not damage the blue and get as much of the rust off...easier said than done. I was too aggressive with the steel wool and oil and thinned the blue around the rust spots...just go slow and be careful.
If I may------------the use of steel wool is dangerous, no matter how much oil is used----no matter how careful you are!!
You say you want to remove "rust"----corrosion. The blue finish on your gun is "controlled corrosion"---PERIOD!!! Steel wool will remove it!
Bronze wool is idiot proof-----I use it. I have used it (ONLY) for years. I have SCRUBBED stubborn deposits of crud and SURFACE rust unmercifully--------with no problems---ever. Beyond its cleaning ability, I have also noted it blends what I will call spotty or streaked blued finishes. It doesn't make them as good as new, but it makes them a whole lot better than they were.
The recipe: Bronze wool with any light oil----rub easy. If/when rubbing easy doesn't produce the desired results, rub harder.
Bronze wool is available from Brownells----as is anything else that has anything whatsoever to do with firearms. It is available in several grades. I use 0000. If you're in a big rush, go do something else until you're ready to take your time.
Treat your guns with the respect they deserve!
Ralph Tremaine
You say you want to remove "rust"----corrosion. The blue finish on your gun is "controlled corrosion"---PERIOD!!! Steel wool will remove it!
Bronze wool is idiot proof-----I use it. I have used it (ONLY) for years. I have SCRUBBED stubborn deposits of crud and SURFACE rust unmercifully--------with no problems---ever. Beyond its cleaning ability, I have also noted it blends what I will call spotty or streaked blued finishes. It doesn't make them as good as new, but it makes them a whole lot better than they were.
The recipe: Bronze wool with any light oil----rub easy. If/when rubbing easy doesn't produce the desired results, rub harder.
Bronze wool is available from Brownells----as is anything else that has anything whatsoever to do with firearms. It is available in several grades. I use 0000. If you're in a big rush, go do something else until you're ready to take your time.
Treat your guns with the respect they deserve!
Ralph Tremaine
Do not use steel wool on your gun. EVER.
Unfortunate that you had to sell it. Our sympathy, of course.
But on the topic of surface rust and steel wool, I had an interesting (and new) experience with that issue last night.
I have a .38 top break that has excellent finish over most of it, but someone had polished several areas almost completely free of bluing using steel wool.
I thought I would try some cold-bluing on the bad areas, since it couldn't look any worse (I hoped).
It did look dull and blotchy after applying the cold blue, so I picked up a bronze bore-cleaning brush and started going over the blotchy area with that. It actually looked good after some brushing, and it took most of the blotching away. It may be that bronze wool would do the same, but if you happen not to have any, the brass brush may be an alternative.
I was planning to try some Flitz (or other) after that, but it looks good enough that I am going to quit while I am ahead.
It's not as shiny as the original, but for an 1880's firearm, it's not too bad looking.
But on the topic of surface rust and steel wool, I had an interesting (and new) experience with that issue last night.
I have a .38 top break that has excellent finish over most of it, but someone had polished several areas almost completely free of bluing using steel wool.
I thought I would try some cold-bluing on the bad areas, since it couldn't look any worse (I hoped).
It did look dull and blotchy after applying the cold blue, so I picked up a bronze bore-cleaning brush and started going over the blotchy area with that. It actually looked good after some brushing, and it took most of the blotching away. It may be that bronze wool would do the same, but if you happen not to have any, the brass brush may be an alternative.
I was planning to try some Flitz (or other) after that, but it looks good enough that I am going to quit while I am ahead.
It's not as shiny as the original, but for an 1880's firearm, it's not too bad looking.
Kelly Green
Member
If it's only surface rust then it's best removed with a good penetrating oil like Kroil and a cotton cloth. Apply the oil liberally and let it sit for a day then wipe with the cotton cloth. Keep using new areas of cloth so as not to carry the rust back into your work. You may have to repeat the process several times. The Kroil will penetrate and soften the rust without removing bluing and the cotton cloth will not scratch the surface.
If the rust has penetrated and pitted the metal then that is a whole different matter.
If the rust has penetrated and pitted the metal then that is a whole different matter.
skyscratcher1969
Member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2013
- Messages
- 16
- Reaction score
- 3
Eezox
I suggest soaking down effected parts with Eezox let sit for 15 minutes then wipedown and buff hard with a dry cloth. You may have to do this several times. When you are done follow directions on can and clean/lube/protect your firearm.
Check this stuff out it works better than anything else!
Corrosion Protection Products for Rifles, Shooting, Benchrest Competition, Varminting and Firearms Storage
I suggest soaking down effected parts with Eezox let sit for 15 minutes then wipedown and buff hard with a dry cloth. You may have to do this several times. When you are done follow directions on can and clean/lube/protect your firearm.
Check this stuff out it works better than anything else!
Corrosion Protection Products for Rifles, Shooting, Benchrest Competition, Varminting and Firearms Storage
Roundsworth
US Veteran
For scaly rust, an empty cartridge case, such as the 30-06, can be made into a handy scraper by flattening the mouth to form a small blade. That, combined with bronze wool, brass toothbrushes and oil, will do wonders and not damage any remaining finish or natural (real) patina. Please don't use steel wool 
K W C
Member
I've had good luck with PB blaster.
Last edited:
Similar threads
