Swr Spectre II an 15-22?

[Derrick87]

Im looking into getting a 15-22 MOE and was wondering if i need to buy a spacer for it to accept my spectre II and if so what one should i get?

 

[Dirt Dart]

Get a depth gauge (or improvise one) and measure from the rear outside edge of the end cap to the first blast baffle. If you have more than 0.6325" you will not need one.

I run an AAC Element and do not use any type of spacer.

 

[strobro32]

The 15-22 has a thread depth of .600". The SWR Spectre II Guide states that the suppressor be used with a thread depth of no more than .400". You should use a spacer. Silencershop.com has them in stock. Rifle Thread Spacer (1/2×28) | Silencer Shop

 

[Derrick87]

Would the spacer from Gemtech work?
https://www.gem-tech.com/store/pc/Spacer-for-22lr-Silencer-use-on-longer-threaded-barrels-8p472.htm

 

[Majorlk]

Would the spacer from Gemtech work?
https://www.gem-tech.com/store/pc/Spacer-for-22lr-Silencer-use-on-longer-threaded-barrels-8p472.htm

Considering that the description indicates it is specifically made for the 15-22, that would be a logical assumption.

 

[Lorelei]

Considering that the description indicates it is specifically made for the 15-22, that would be a logical assumption.

I especially like the square design of that one.

 

[roadkill45]

i have a few Pilot II's and a Specter, it does require a space, but i just use the crush washer that the FH used and it is perfect. no use buying something specific when you can get one from the hardware store.

 

[strobro32]

Crush washers can make suppressors not concentric with the bore. Every suppressor manufacturer warns against them. They are fine with a flash hiders.

 

[Majorlk]

Crush washers can make suppressors not concentric with the bore. Every suppressor manufacturer warns against them. They are fine with a flash hiders.

Someone explain this to me.

If the threads on the barrel are concentric to the bore and the internal threads on the suppressor are concentric to the bore, then how can the washer have any effect, one way or the other?

The threads would have to be really sloppy for there to be any lateral movement.

 

[strobro32]

A crush washer may not crush perfectly flat and could flex. It could cause a baffle or endcap strike.

 

[Majorlk]

A crush washer may not crush perfectly flat and could flex. It could cause a baffle or endcap strike.

But if the threads are both cut to spec, they should be tight with no possibility of lateral movement. I have three rifles with comps on them and there is no lateral movement on any of them with the comps threaded on half way.

I understand what you say, but that doesn't seem possible with properly threaded devices.

 

[strobro32]

Threads do not keep the alignment. They just keep muzzle attachments secure. Alignment is maintained on suppressors by having the barrel shoulder or muzzle 90 degrees perpendicular to the bore and by turning the barrel parallel and concentric to the bore.

Comps and flash hinders have large diameter muzzle clearances and are short. Suppressors have much smaller apertures and are longer. If a crush washer does not seat flat, it's much easier for a suppressor to get damaged.

 

[Majorlk]

Ok, I get it now. Thanks.

 

[Derrick87]

Thanks for the info everyone i ended up ordering the Gemtech spacer hope it will work with the Spectre II..

 

[roadkill45]

my bad, i'm speaking of the peel washers, type that do not crush. all they do is take up the correct slack so that the can rests securely on the shoulders, they will always make the can perfectly centered on the bbl, there is not choice for it not to. Heck all the gemtech spacer is the correct sized black bolt 1/2x28 threaded on the end, 5 cents at Ace.
i have never had issues using the cone spacer, and i have quite the stamp collection.

 

[Rundover]

Wouldn't it be better to have a nut instead of a spacer? That way you could use two wrenches to put on, take off the suppressor and not mess with clamping the barrel.

Sorry, just a thought.

 

[Dirt Dart]

Wouldn't it be better to have a nut instead of a spacer? That way you could use two wrenches to put on, take off the suppressor and not mess with clamping the barrel.

Sorry, just a thought.

It's really just a matter of centering the can on the barrel threads so they are reasonably concentric when torque is applied as you tighten down the can. A good can design takes into account the relative differences between the 0.40 threads of a pistol mount and the 0.60 threads of a rifle barrel in length.

If you design the space to the first blast baffle to take the 0.20 difference into account, it's a moot point.

 

[roadkill45]

just hand tighten the can anyway or you may not be getting it off w/o a barrel block and vice/wrench. i have one Al spacer that drops over the top of the threads, then just hand thread on the cans...done. it will heat up enough so that it won't back off.
my one .22 can is dedicated to my 15-22, another to a 10/22, another to MKII race gun. i have 2 floater ones that go on various other pistols and rifles that are not dedicated hosts.

centerfire cans are all dedicated to their hosts so they only come off for occasionally cleaning, as well as the .22's.

 

[Dirt Dart]

For those of you who are interested in the fit of these things, the following photo is of the simple circular spacer featured in the link in post #3. It contours to the barrel of the 15-22 beautifully and has a radius cut in the back edge of the internal threads to snug up to the barrel very nicely.

I don't use it normally on mine, as the AAC Element does not really require one. But I do sometimes mount it for range work, to keep the barrel threads that are exposed inside of the Element blast chamber clean.

The Gemtech spacer has flats, but you DO NOT want to tighten it with a wrench. The spacer holds itself in battery just fine with only hand tightening.

 

[RedNeck Jim]

Thanks folks. I have learned something here... and I'm an old dog.