Talk to me about Frog Lube!

Thanks for all the replies. I ordered the 4oz combo off Amazon. $25.25 no tax, no shipping charge. Not as expensive as I was thinking and will get my flippers wet!
 
I haven't tried FL yet but do plan to do so. I will be ordering some in the next week or two. How often is retreating recommended ?
 
Thanks for all the replies. I ordered the 4oz combo off Amazon. $25.25 no tax, no shipping charge. Not as expensive as I was thinking and will get my flippers wet!

Give it a shot its good stuff. My favorite part of using it is that I can go to bed without smelling hoppes all night.

One thing I realized is I probably use too much paste on the initial treatments. I tend to wipe off a bunch after it sets. Oh well. I got the 4oz paste 4 oz liquid combo. Since then I have done two applications on at least 5 pistols really laying it on and I still have most of the paste left. I've made a good dent but I have more than half a tub left.

Enjoy your new lube. The challenge will be what to do with your old CLP products.
 
I like it. I can use it indoors and my wife doesn't complain about the smell. Hoppe's drives me outside.

As for a CLP, it's great. I've converted over. Don't use FL with petro based lubes.
 
Waiting for my FL to arrive, probably Monday. I've watched the videos so I'm up to speed on the initial application and subsequently cleaning.

I'm now reading more about doing a retreatment with the heating process and all on a regular basis. What is the general consensus on what "regular" would be.

I have found Froglube to be great stuff in semi- pistols, but I do not like it in my semi rifles. With an AR, it just attracts a ton of junk. With the pistols, it smooths out everything. EVERYTHING.
I clean my pistols as usual, and depending on the level of carbon stuck in the pistol will determine if I use FL or Hoppes.
If it's dirty, Hoppes cuts powder and buildup better. Froglube is a lube, and that is all it is.
If I clean with Hoppes, I will dry the parts off with a good rag, then I use the FL paste on the pistols. Just slime it on, and wipe up the excess. Good to go. I am not heating the gun, and I feel the FL is smooth and good for a lot of shooting; 1000 rounds is not unusual.
 
I use it on suppressors by baking the baffles in the oven for 15-20 min at 200, where they are just a tad too hot to hold, then apply... after the parts cool, i reapply a light coat of the paste, and a thick coat on baffles front strike faces.

I did this to a new all aluminum unit prior to our range day on the 11th, and the can ran all day on a Savage MkII 22lr.... about 2000 rounds of federal 22 went through it as a free demonstrator.... took the can apart last night and wiped it clean with paper towels.... the stuff works......

The negative is that dirt/grit gets suspended in the lube, and you have to wipe off completely, as well as avoid petrochemicals.... other than that, I have nothing but kudos for it... all my firearms wear it now....
 
I am now a convert for Frog Lube...I will never use any other product.

I was skeptical too...but not now.

Some people will never change or try anything new...even when they should.
So am I supposed to just throw away my 10 year supply of what has been working for me for the last 20 years & go with FL? Yeah, when I run out of what I have I might give FL a try, but what I use works just fine for me, & I'm happy with it. While a synthetic oil like Mobil 1 might work better than the Dino oil I am using now, I still have gotten over 250,000 miles from some cars I have used in the past. The motors were still perfect, but I junked the car for other reasons. Mobil 1 could help for Z06 Corvettes at 7000 RPM, but I just drive a Chevy Impala that rarely see's 3000 RPM. When I finally run out of my Slip 2000, TW25B, & Tetra gun grease in 10 years or so, I will be glad to try FL. GARY
 
Don't forget ot lookup this stuff.Seal1.com you say you were a navy seal..Well then stick with this! Sure smalls the same ans it very slippery. Meal is treated the same way.. G
 
Mobil 1 will burn into the metal like most synthetics and will turn metal black and you can't get it out.. I'm not sure about frog lube or Seal 1... I use the two but only on lock works and slide and lube points that can't get supper hot.. Some chambers can get hot enough to cook off rounds in the chamber.. I'm still old school but slowly working on or with some of the new products out there..George
 
So am I supposed to just throw away my 10 year supply of what has been working for me for the last 20 years & go with FL?

I didn't throw mine out but it's all collecting dust. It's nice not to have to read all the fine print about warnings and cancer and flammability. No more latex gloves. Best of all I never have to smell CLP again. Try it, you'll like it.
 
I didn't throw mine out but it's all collecting dust. It's nice not to have to read all the fine print about warnings and cancer and flammability. No more latex gloves. Best of all I never have to smell CLP again. Try it, you'll like it.

I'm using my Break Free to lube my reloading press (no, not the cases) and the neighbor kids bike chains.:D
 
You can do whatever YOU want to...It's a free country.


So am I supposed to just throw away my 10 year supply of what has been working for me for the last 20 years & go with FL? Yeah, when I run out of what I have I might give FL a try, but what I use works just fine for me, & I'm happy with it. While a synthetic oil like Mobil 1 might work better than the Dino oil I am using now, I still have gotten over 250,000 miles from some cars I have used in the past. The motors were still perfect, but I junked the car for other reasons. Mobil 1 could help for Z06 Corvettes at 7000 RPM, but I just drive a Chevy Impala that rarely see's 3000 RPM. When I finally run out of my Slip 2000, TW25B, & Tetra gun grease in 10 years or so, I will be glad to try FL. GARY
 
Sorry guys but I have to be a dissenter on this one.

Frog lube is urber expensive and M&Ps do not fail from being properly lubricated by any other lube known to mankind.

As long as you properly lube your M&P with any even remotely appropriate lube, it will outlast just about everybody on this site. Heck it will function properly and outlast most people on here if it's lubed with crisco (and smell better too).

Frog lube is an answer searching for a problem when it comes to the M&P.
 
You can do whatever YOU want to...It's a free country.
That's what I plan to do. I will continue to use the excellent products I have been using for years, & when I finally run out, years from now, if they are still around, I will give them a try. But that might never come to pass, because I work in a LGS, & am always getting free samples of TW25B, & SLIP2000. Why doesn't our store get free samples of FL? GARY
 
I've read enough about FL to really want it and trust it, but the thought of letting my other cleaners go to waste makes my frugal side squirm.

It sure would be nice to rid myself of the chemicals and fumes. That's the biggest FL selling point to me.
 
Why both paste and liquid? Don't they do the same thing?

Its the same product, it just comes in 2 different forms. I usually treat my m&p's with the paste for the first 2 applications, then just use the liquid form of FL from then on (when needed).
 
Fairly new to personal weapons (on the range 3 to 4 times a year in the military), but didn't haveany personal weapons until I retired. Therefore I didn't load up on other cleaning products. A fellow I worked with in the last couple years lauded the value of Frog-Lube - so that is what I got.

I like it better than what I had to use in our montly weapons cleaning sessons throughout my time in the military.

Yes it smells a lot better and I don't get hassled cleaning in the house!!!
 
Why both paste and liquid? Don't they do the same thing?

They do, but I like using the paste on the initial treatment of the slide and frame. I grab several squares or swabs and dab on some paste on each and set aside. The paste stays on the applicators whereas the liquid would likely have dropped off. After the parts are warmed up, I have it ready.
I do use the liquid for the inside of the barrel.

As a CLP between range trips, I use the liquid.
 
They do, but I like using the paste on the initial treatment of the slide and frame. I grab several squares or swabs and dab on some paste on each and set aside. The paste stays on the applicators whereas the liquid would likely have dropped off. After the parts are warmed up, I have it ready.
I do use the liquid for the inside of the barrel.

As a CLP between range trips, I use the liquid.

Thanks, that's what I was wondering. I will be ordering both.
 
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