Taper crimp die for 357 mag?

There is really no point to using a taper crimp die on a rimmed cartridge. They are designed to crimp semi auto cartridges that headspace on their mouths, such as the 9mm Luger or 45 ACP. If you use the roll crimp, I suggest that you seat the bullet first and do the crimp as a separate operation. I can tell you that once you use a Lee collet crimp die, you will never go back.
 
I use taper crimp on plated bullets in 357. Handles 158 grain bullets at 1000 fps in a full size revolver. Above that, don't know, never been there with a taper crimp.
My favorite crimp die for 357 is the Redding profile crimp. Adjusts from a light taper crimp to a collet style crimp.

I know a collet works differently, but both the collet and the profile crimp lay the case mouth parallel to the bullet, a roll crimp drives the case mouth into the side of the bullet on longer cases.
 
I know a collet works differently, but both the collet and the profile crimp lay the case mouth parallel to the bullet, a roll crimp drives the case mouth into the side of the bullet on longer cases.
Actually a Collet crimp drives the case mouth into the cannelure as well

If I were at home I could probably pull out some rounds to photograph
 
For 357 Magnum, I use a collet crimp.

Lee makes what they call the Factory Crimp Die, but there are 2 styles for the 357 Magnum. This is not the standard FCD.

This started out as a custom order die, but they always seem to have them in stock these days

357 Magnum Custom Collet Style Crimp Die - Lee Precision

I bought a Lee 357 magnum collet crimp die for use with plated bullets with no crimp groove and that die produced some of the tightest crimps I've ever seen in any 357 round and with no damage to the copper plating either. The dummy rounds I made up were quite difficult to knock down with the plastic hammer taking multiple hard hits before they released. This die doesn't just crimp at the mouth of the case like a taper crimp but produces a smooth crimp down the flanks of the case. I haven't fired any of the rounds I loaded with it yet but I believe it's going to be the real deal for heavy loads in a j frame.
 
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I always taper crimp all handgun ammo because I think it makes small to moderate variations in case length less of a problem.
With a roll crimp, small inconsistencies in case length cause a quite noticeable variation in the effort required for the crimping operation from one cartridge to the next.

But full disclosure here; I don't load magnum loads in revolvers.
I load .38 Special up to +P, and .44 Special, 9mm, and .45 ACP at standard pressures.
 
Has anyone ever seen proof that a roll crimp will cut through the plating and cause issues in copper plated bullets?

I've bought some 158gr RNFP bullets that were pulled from demilled factory ammo. They had no cannelure, but they had very noticeable rings from a roll crimp and close inspection under magnification showed no indication that the plating was cut or cracked.

Since the plating is deposited through electrolysis it seems to me that it would take some pretty severe distortion/damage to make it crack and separate from the lead. Also, if roll crimping were likely to damage the plating and cause a problem, what factory would use a roll crimp with plated bullets? Doesn't make sense to me.
 
For 357 Magnum, I use a collet crimp.

Lee makes what they call the Factory Crimp Die, but there are 2 styles for the 357 Magnum. This is not the standard FCD.

This started out as a custom order die, but they always seem to have them in stock these days

357 Magnum Custom Collet Style Crimp Die - Lee Precision

I've been looking at their collet crimp dies myself. Need to pick 1 up and do some head to head testing with:
roll crimp vs taper crimp vs collet crimp
Should prove interesting.

Myself I don't use/shoot plated bullets, never had any desire to and never will.
 
Thinking of 125 gn plated without cannular (sp?)
That should work , I do it with 124 grain cast lead truncated cone bullets that are sized .357 or .358 .
I have had poor results with some bullets , plated and cast that were sized .355 and .356 , they were too small for my Ruger Blackhawk's throats ...small bullets = not great accuracy .

technically the correct spelling is cannelure but we knew what you were saying .
Gary
 
Has anyone ever seen proof that a roll crimp will cut through the plating and cause issues in copper plated bullets?

I've bought some 158gr RNFP bullets that were pulled from demilled factory ammo. They had no cannelure, but they had very noticeable rings from a roll crimp and close inspection under magnification showed no indication that the plating was cut or cracked.

Since the plating is deposited through electrolysis it seems to me that it would take some pretty severe distortion/damage to make it crack and separate from the lead. Also, if roll crimping were likely to damage the plating and cause a problem, what factory would use a roll crimp with plated bullets? Doesn't make sense to me.




I tested some 357 (158 gr) bullets from RMR (Rocky Mt Reloading)


I crimped the snot out of them and also gave them the bench vise and hammer test!


The plating did not crack at all. Other brands may vary!:D
 

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I tested some 357 (158 gr) bullets from RMR (Rocky Mt Reloading)


I crimped the snot out of them and also gave them the bench vise and hammer test!


The plating did not crack at all. Other brands may vary!:D

That is what I would expect.
So far I've never seen any proof that the plating can be cracked or damaged by crimping.
I have to wonder if it isn't just theoretical.
Kind of a reloading urban myth maybe?
 
OUCH !!

Bad day at the office, Bunky ??

You sure put the hurt on those bullets.




It's all about the "research" :D

I think some of the early plated bullest may have had issues.

To me, the RMR bullets are as good or better than name brand FMJ bullets

After-all, technically speaking Speer Gold Dot bullets are "plated"
Super duper, high tech molecular bonded to the metal plating:D
 
I find that when using taper crimps in 38 Spl +P with 158 gr lead swc in my Airweight 642 that there is some bullet creep. I prefer a firm roll crimp in this application.

I have used taper crimps using Hornady swaged bullets in 357 Magnum cases in my Ruger 4 5/8 Blackhawk at approx 1,000 FPS (I coat the bullets with Lee Alox) without any creep, and they are very accurate.
 
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