Thankful for Terrific Members Here

[fleabus101]

I'm placing this thread here because it pertains to a Recent gunsmithing issue of mine.
About 4-5 Mos ago I posted about my family Pre 27
Smith having a broken hammer stud. I was really bummed out over it for awhile.
My first non-local gunsmith attempt didn't work out, being told it would necessitate losing the orig finish.
That was something I really wanted to avoid, if at all possible. It's been mentioned here in past threads hammer studs being repaired w/o removing the orig finish.
So, I was looking for a repair when a Terrific, Talented, Very Skilled , and Very Kind.(Not enuf adverbs for him) Offered to help me repair my Smith.
After a few Nice FFLs help moving the Smith and a few iterations on the repair, my Pre 27 is back functioning as it should.
Thru out the issue being fixed the kind member
was always willing to help til it was working
consistently as it should.
I can't say enuf positives about, per the nameless
members request, his help getting this problem resolved, w/o losing 99.9 % of the orig finish.
The .01 % being having the stud base anchored
thru the left side of the frame, as they did on Pre War
Smiths.
His help, along with other talented members like Curt Harlow.is a blessing we have with our members here.
If you look around, there a fewer and fewer people
doing repair work. Few on Wood Work, that I can name doing it now. And as mentioned , loosing
Bill retiring at Cyl & Slide , fewer gunsmiths still
active taking in work with very long que times.
I'll try to add some pictures & poss a video of my Smith soon..
So, I wanted to write about the kind and talented members we are blessed with being on this forum.
Best Randy..
Edit: spelling..

 

[fleabus101]

Here's some pictures of my Smith since the Hammer repairs are done.
Again Many Many Thanks to my North West
Mountain Man problem Resolver !!
Also a Big Thank You to RNewell (Bobby) for the really fine Case Coloered Hamner residing in it now.
I'm still trying to send a short video of the Smith
in action but havent mastered that yet..still in work.
A few pictures of it now, to show the left frame area
where the base of the stud shows underneath the cyl release and the original finish still intact..
I'm really grateful to my terrific member friends
that got this Fine Smith back working as it should.
Best Randy..

 

[Green Frog]

Looks good to me! Isn't it great to have friends who know how (and are willing) to do this kind of skilled work. In my case at least, most of my close by friends like this are passing on. You are indeed fortunate.

Green Frog

 

[chief38]

I am glad the repair job worked out to your satisfaction!

There are many ways to skin a Cat! I've done two stud repairs myself with no need to refinish the vintage guns. While I would not say they are "invisible" as are most originals, they are 95% - 96% and no one to date has noticed until I purposely point them out.

It is a tedious process that requires precise measuring of the stud length as you really only get one shot at fitting it and requires that the finish be put on the stud end prior to fitting if you don't want bluing over the original finish on the frame. The job takes a long long time to do but to me the results are worth the effort - especially when the guns finish has been preserved.

This requires thinking outside the box and having the persistence and patience to get it done. It also obviously requires the ability to get the new part or make one if you have a lathe. I highly doubt there are many professional Gunsmiths that would take the time trouble and effort to do this job in this manner - their time is too valuable.

I find in life there are too many technicians in all fields (not just firearms) that have been brainwashed into only doing a repair job "the way the Factory teaches it". There ARE other methods and sometimes they are better, IMHO.

 

[chief38]

I did want to also mention that some Stud failures (cracking, loosening, bending) occur because the revolver's mechanism is operated repeatedly under spring tension without the Side Plate in place. This puts undo stress and tension onto a Stud only secured on the Frame side. When the Side Plate is in place, the Stud is securely held in place and is quite strong.

Other damage is also common when operating the revolver's mechanism with the Side Pate off. The Hammer can "walk" up the Stud and strike and chip the Frame. In general, unless looking for a specific problem, the lock-work should not normally be operated under spring pressure without the Side Plate in place. Hope this helps save some damage.

 

[jmace57]

Man, look at those STOCKS!!!!

 

[len917]

DITTO TO ALL THAT HELP US OUT
I THANK YOU TOO