BRush
Member
A quality knife comes with the blade edge angled and shaped the way the maker intended, which should be the reason you bought it. It should be regularly honed and stropped so that its original edge is never worn to the extent it loses its original shape. Honing realigns and removes some of the bent edge and stropping polishes the edge without removing metal. This only takes a minute or two and requires no special skill. With quality steel this is not a big deal and doing it properly maintains your knife.
A quality knife should never be neglected to the extent its edge must be reshaped by the use of a stone or, horrors, a grinding wheel.
Having said this, many, including myself, often find our knife's edge needs some reshaping or we want to increase the cutting ability of a cheap knife that comes with a poorly designed or formed edge. After deciding the degree of bevel you desire, a stone should be used, either free hand or with one of the fixtures mentioned. Apply stones in decreasing grits until extra fine and then the hone and strop. A fine stone can remove as much metal as a course stone. A course stone is faster, but leaves a courser edge which requires more time to polish. I find it faster overall to start with a finer stone and it allows more control as to how much metal is removed. Always take care to remove only as much metal as necessary to make your desired degree of edge. Use oil with the stones and use the highest grit only to establish the blade angle and each lessor grit only to remove burs. Then hone and strop, with or without abrasives, to remove the edge overhang and mirror polish the edge. That edge is easily distorted from use and needs to be regularly restored, every other use maybe.
A quality knife should never be neglected to the extent its edge must be reshaped by the use of a stone or, horrors, a grinding wheel.
Having said this, many, including myself, often find our knife's edge needs some reshaping or we want to increase the cutting ability of a cheap knife that comes with a poorly designed or formed edge. After deciding the degree of bevel you desire, a stone should be used, either free hand or with one of the fixtures mentioned. Apply stones in decreasing grits until extra fine and then the hone and strop. A fine stone can remove as much metal as a course stone. A course stone is faster, but leaves a courser edge which requires more time to polish. I find it faster overall to start with a finer stone and it allows more control as to how much metal is removed. Always take care to remove only as much metal as necessary to make your desired degree of edge. Use oil with the stones and use the highest grit only to establish the blade angle and each lessor grit only to remove burs. Then hone and strop, with or without abrasives, to remove the edge overhang and mirror polish the edge. That edge is easily distorted from use and needs to be regularly restored, every other use maybe.