The most stunning revolver I own (Model of 1917 military)

[Rule3]

Here is one of mine from a relative. It saw a lot of action and was at The Bridge at Remagen as well as other places. The holster is a RIA and actually for a 1911 but the strap was stretched to fit this gun. That is not a scratch on the gun it is a oil smear.
He is wearing it in the picture. Not many pics survived and what did are poor quality.

 

[OK Hog Shooter]

Once again forum members have shared knowledge, history and insight into a fine collectable Smith revolver. Thanks. I think l've learned more history here than in any history class. ...and l have another revolver to put on my "gotta have one" list!

 

[Chromedhearts]

Great looking 1917s. To the question about modern ball ammo; it would be entirely safe to shoot in any 1917 in good condition, however the jacketed bullets will eventually erode the bore groves in that vintage. For long term shooting pleasure find a good cast lead bullet.

 

[guitar1580]

Snub, that's a great looking 1917. I'd be very proud of it, either way.

There is a beveled zone at 45 degrees to the face of the rod where the hole for the lockng pin is. In a factory original gun, that bevel is always "in the white" -- unblued.

That's a great piece of info about the ejector rod bevel being white. I have a 1905-3rd edition, made in 1913, which I've been wondering if it's been re blued or not. Does anyone know if the unfinished ejector rod tip would hold true for all guns of that period which have the bevel?

Josh P

 

[Doug M.]

That's a fine looking revolver, and not being a collector I am not bothered by the reblue. Enjoy the heck out of it.

 

[mtb1bkr]

If I thought I could get a reblue of that quality on my 1917, I'd jump on it in a second, collector value be damned.

You can, Dave Chicione and his son can do a very nice reblue to where you won't be able to tell very easily. I recently received this one back, and short of the grips, it's hard to tell this gun was refinished, and it was nickle when I got it.

Bill

 

[handejector]

Here's a diagnostic step that is pretty reliabe. Look at the front end of the ejector rod. There is a beveled zone at 45 degrees to the face of the rod where the hole for the lockng pin is. In a factory original gun, that bevel is always "in the white" -- unblued. If that bevel is blued, it is evidence of a refinish. But don't over interpret this. An unblued bevel cannot be taken to mean the gun has NOT been refinished. This argument only runs one way for one condition.

That's a great piece of info about the ejector rod bevel being white. I have a 1905-3rd edition, made in 1913, which I've been wondering if it's been re blued or not. Does anyone know if the unfinished ejector rod tip would hold true for all guns of that period which have the bevel?

Josh P

As David advises, take it as an INDICATOR.
A savvy rebluer can polish it after the dip.

It also sticks in my mind that I have seen one or two guns that were definitely original that had blued bevels, But I'M NOT SURE.

Another point-
Till around 1909, the mushroom knob was a separate piece threaded on which was case hardened. The ends and the bevels have case colors. On some guns, the colors are dark enough to look BLUE. On others, they just look like faded blue. They are seldom VIVID case colors.

Last point-
The rods on Triple Locks are unique to the TL. They have more or less a beveled appearance, but it is actually radiused. They are originally blued all the way to the center hole.

 

[guitar1580]

Hey thanks Lee. I had just posted a thread asking about the rod, because I wasnt sure if everyone would see it here. Thanks for the info. It's definitely a good indicator to know about.

Josh P