The ultimate Model 19/66 Combat Magnum thread
- Thread starter snw19_357
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Engine49guy
Member
On the subject of the rear sight screw kinda went like this, in 1946-47 the post war K22, K32, K38 are introduced with the new post war style micrometer rear sight, that sight was standard when the Combat Magnum was introduced 10 years later in 1956.
In order to fit the longer .357 cylinder they had to shorten the forcing cone protrusion into the frame window, this unfortunately meant the fwd screw was now right under the barrel cylinder gap where the blast occurs only on the Pre 19's but they have the stronger Magnum blast compounding the issue.
10 years later 1966 they finally did something about it and moved the front screw location, since a new part now was introduced that was different the revision advanced to 19-3.
It wouldn't have made sense to just do the Model 19 or they'd have to produce different rear sights so they used the new rear site on all K target guns and the 17-2 etc becomes the 17-3 etc.
The Model 66 and 67 were introduced during the 19-3 , 15-3 revision so a Model 66 /67 is equal in revision so was introduced with the new rear site screw location.
In order to fit the longer .357 cylinder they had to shorten the forcing cone protrusion into the frame window, this unfortunately meant the fwd screw was now right under the barrel cylinder gap where the blast occurs only on the Pre 19's but they have the stronger Magnum blast compounding the issue.
10 years later 1966 they finally did something about it and moved the front screw location, since a new part now was introduced that was different the revision advanced to 19-3.
It wouldn't have made sense to just do the Model 19 or they'd have to produce different rear sights so they used the new rear site on all K target guns and the 17-2 etc becomes the 17-3 etc.
The Model 66 and 67 were introduced during the 19-3 , 15-3 revision so a Model 66 /67 is equal in revision so was introduced with the new rear site screw location.
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ColumbusJBR
Member
I’ve got a 19-4 4”, my 1st S&W revolver. That one that started my obsession. I’ve since removed the pictured Altamonts and put the factory targets back on.
And a 66-4 2.5”. I would LOVE to add a 19 snubbie but don’t want to pay the current asking prices. I can live without one (for now!)
And a 66-4 2.5”. I would LOVE to add a 19 snubbie but don’t want to pay the current asking prices. I can live without one (for now!)
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I can finally add a pristine M19 to this thread. 1972 year and just a couple of small flaws. Apparently it's led a charmed life.
SWFan27
Member
That is a beautiful revolver. My dad's 19-3 is from 1972. It is nickel with target trigger, hammer and grips. His looks pretty much like new also. He still has the box.I can finally add a pristine M19 to this thread. 1972 year and just a couple of small flaws. Apparently it's led a charmed life.
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Here are pictures of my Model 66-1. I have owned it for about 10 years.
I have the original box, but there is no end label. I understand these were shipped in a wooden presentation box, and the whole package was shipped in a larger box which bore the label. Unfortunately, all I have is the gun and cardboard box and accessories shown.
Any additional information that forum members might be able to provide would be appreciated.
I have the original box, but there is no end label. I understand these were shipped in a wooden presentation box, and the whole package was shipped in a larger box which bore the label. Unfortunately, all I have is the gun and cardboard box and accessories shown.
Any additional information that forum members might be able to provide would be appreciated.
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OP
Yes, they were shipped with a wooden presentation case and the label was placed on the outside shipping container and the ones I have seen with confirmed ship dates were from May, 1981
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Thank you for the pictures and information.
ColumbusJBR
Member
The G.A. stock on the blued 19 are beautiful. Why can't they all be like that? I've got some factory S&W stock that look like they were made out of pressed pencil shavings lol
45NUTT
Member
I have 2 19-4's, one 4" blue and a 6" nickel w/ 3T's. I have a 19-5 nickel 2 1/2" and a 66 no dash with SS rear sight. I love them all! I am currently browsing for a 19-3 and hope to add it soon!
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You know a lot about k frames except how to fix a trigger reset issue before selling one LOL
Yes, they were shipped with a wooden presentation case and the label was placed on the outside shipping container and the ones I have seen with confirmed ship dates were from May, 1981
Added some RB Culinas to my old 66. Dressed for sucess now!
I realized, not only has it been too long since I contributed to this forum, but I never contributed to this thread. Here is my attempt at recreating a photo my dad took in 1981 with the exact same guns.
Featuring a M66-1 from 1980 and a M63 from 1978.
They've both had hundreds of rounds through them, if not thousands in the case of the M63, since the original photo.
Featuring a M66-1 from 1980 and a M63 from 1978.
They've both had hundreds of rounds through them, if not thousands in the case of the M63, since the original photo.
BKLooney
Member
My 4" 66 ND is dated to 1974 per the S&W Std Cat. Many years ago 357 mag loads were shot through it and the cylinder loosed up - too much movement axially. The local gunsmith, was a retired S&W armorer, stated the 66's were too light weight to handle the 357 mag loads and to only use 38 special or 38 special + loads. He install shims, i believe, around the cylinder and reworked the trigger - actually installed a target trigger. Has anyone had issues with their 66 showing loosen?
Curt Blunt
Member
Back in the 80s I shot a lot of heavy handloads in my 66-2 to the point where I sent it back to S&W to be tightened up. Can't remember the exact details, unfortunately.
Art66
Member
M66 and magnums
I bought a Model 66 no dash (1973) used, history unknown. It had excessive barrel to cylinder clearance and too much rotational play. I replaced the cylinder stop to solve the rotational play. I put shims at the front of the cylinder to fix end play. I sent it out to have the barrel set back to achieve the correct barrel to cylinder clearance. I adjusted the mainspring to correct a dangerously light single action trigger force. I put in a lighter trigger rebound spring to keep the double action trigger force reasonable.
It was a learning experience that turned a $600 junker into a very nice revolver. I haven't had time to try it at the range, but dry firing it is very smooth. When I do get to the range, I won't shoot many .357 magnums through it, if any at all!
I bought a Model 66 no dash (1973) used, history unknown. It had excessive barrel to cylinder clearance and too much rotational play. I replaced the cylinder stop to solve the rotational play. I put shims at the front of the cylinder to fix end play. I sent it out to have the barrel set back to achieve the correct barrel to cylinder clearance. I adjusted the mainspring to correct a dangerously light single action trigger force. I put in a lighter trigger rebound spring to keep the double action trigger force reasonable.
It was a learning experience that turned a $600 junker into a very nice revolver. I haven't had time to try it at the range, but dry firing it is very smooth. When I do get to the range, I won't shoot many .357 magnums through it, if any at all!
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