I am thinking about reloading for .38/.357, .380 and 9mm. In the past I have only reloaded shotgun shells and that was a long long time ago. I Googled the subject and saw a Lee Pro 1000 Progressive Press Kit at Midway USA for $180. Would this be a good set up to get started? Any advice or information appreciated.
Thinking about reloading
- Thread starter Glenn54
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Depends on how much shooting you intend on doing. If it's not much, you may not need a progressive press. I have heard good and bad about the Lee pro 1000. Before I got my Dillon 550 I had a Lee turret press with auto indexing. It was very good I thought after using just a single stage setup. You will get plenty options and opinions here on what press to get .
Go and get yourself a good reloading book, take your time and double check everything when first starting out. Good luck!!
Go and get yourself a good reloading book, take your time and double check everything when first starting out. Good luck!!
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First purchase should be a name brand reloading manual. Read the whole first part of the book and then decide what to buy. Many start with Lee equipment but they seem to eventually change.
This month Handloader magazine (#318) has a good article on getting started with reloading.
They suggest, & I agree, that you'd be best to start using a single-stage press and get used to the process before jumping up to a progressive press, which only multiples/compounds your learning mistakes.
Later, if consumption warrants it, you can add to your reloading tools. Most of us have two presses anyway.
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They suggest, & I agree, that you'd be best to start using a single-stage press and get used to the process before jumping up to a progressive press, which only multiples/compounds your learning mistakes.
Later, if consumption warrants it, you can add to your reloading tools. Most of us have two presses anyway.
.
RobertJ.
Member
Here's something to read before you take the plunge, quite possibly the best post ever concerning reloading:So you're thinking about getting into reloading...
I would start with a single stage press. Reloading shot gun shells isnt all that different, but there is a LOT going on with a progressive. I still dont own one. I like the turret press better, as it is much easier to keep a close eye on things than a progressive. I still load all my 357 magnums on a single stage. And as always make sure you have a reloading manual, it lines out all the steps for you.
292
Member
Breech Lock Challenger Single Stage Press Kit by Lee
This is what I started with about 10 years ago and what I'm still using today. I've added a better scale and that's about all. I'd recommend starting with 38 Special and moving on from there. I started casting my own bullets about the same time I started reloading. Very rewarding.
This is what I started with about 10 years ago and what I'm still using today. I've added a better scale and that's about all. I'd recommend starting with 38 Special and moving on from there. I started casting my own bullets about the same time I started reloading. Very rewarding.
I don't know which reloader you used for shotshells, but metallic ammunition is simpler and quicker to reload.
The first stage is very much the same: Deprime and size case. On metallic you have a lube for the cases, most people buy Carbide dies to avoid lube and clean up on pistol cases.
Second stage replace primer and flare case mouth (on a progressive, this is usually where powder is added)
Third stage, the bullet is added. Some loading set ups seat to length and crimp in one step, Some do it in two.
Forth Step; Shoot up ammo and repeat.
It does get more complicated on in, How you prime cases and, How you dispense powder. And this is where you start deciding How Much Money you want to spend!
The absolute least expensive way to make ammo is the slowest: A Lee Loader. About $20 per cartridge and around 50 per hour of reloading. Many of us older loaders started here, and keep these loaders for the rest of our lives as a back up system. "So simple. A caveman could do it!" All you add are components, a hammer, and a place to sit (floor or sturdy bench)
Next up in expense are threaded dies and a single stage press. A basic starter kit will have all the small tools you need to make one cartridge of ammo, and then all you will need to add for additional cartridges are a set of dies and maybe a shell holder. This is where prices get FUZZY! These kits can be so simple you will want to replace/upgrade equipment right away, or much more expensive so you will be set for the rest of your life. The big variables are Quality of press, the quality of scale, and the quality of powder measure. And to some degree the quality of loading manual. You can experience a couple of hundred dollar difference.
Loading manuals are very important! Lyman's loading manual and one by a bullet company (Sierra, Hornady, or Speer) would be good to start with.
Lots of reading and comparing are on you list of things to do.
You can spend even bigger money and buy progressive presses and end up at 500 to 600 rounds per hour and add several hundred dollars of cost.
The fun is in the learning, and the using of ammo you made. If you don't shoot 300-500 rounds a month, stick to the less complex kits/systems or you will have a slower time recovering your investment. I've been loading for 41 years and have a room full of equipment, I make ammo that cannot be bought anywhere! I own multiple systems of reloading, so I can say with some authority; Start simple, and enjoy the process! Buy the best pieces of major equipment you can afford (press, scale, and powder measure) and you can use them the rest of your life, clear through your grandkids lives!(Cheap is usually short lived!)
Ivan
The first stage is very much the same: Deprime and size case. On metallic you have a lube for the cases, most people buy Carbide dies to avoid lube and clean up on pistol cases.
Second stage replace primer and flare case mouth (on a progressive, this is usually where powder is added)
Third stage, the bullet is added. Some loading set ups seat to length and crimp in one step, Some do it in two.
Forth Step; Shoot up ammo and repeat.
It does get more complicated on in, How you prime cases and, How you dispense powder. And this is where you start deciding How Much Money you want to spend!
The absolute least expensive way to make ammo is the slowest: A Lee Loader. About $20 per cartridge and around 50 per hour of reloading. Many of us older loaders started here, and keep these loaders for the rest of our lives as a back up system. "So simple. A caveman could do it!" All you add are components, a hammer, and a place to sit (floor or sturdy bench)
Next up in expense are threaded dies and a single stage press. A basic starter kit will have all the small tools you need to make one cartridge of ammo, and then all you will need to add for additional cartridges are a set of dies and maybe a shell holder. This is where prices get FUZZY! These kits can be so simple you will want to replace/upgrade equipment right away, or much more expensive so you will be set for the rest of your life. The big variables are Quality of press, the quality of scale, and the quality of powder measure. And to some degree the quality of loading manual. You can experience a couple of hundred dollar difference.
Loading manuals are very important! Lyman's loading manual and one by a bullet company (Sierra, Hornady, or Speer) would be good to start with.
Lots of reading and comparing are on you list of things to do.
You can spend even bigger money and buy progressive presses and end up at 500 to 600 rounds per hour and add several hundred dollars of cost.
The fun is in the learning, and the using of ammo you made. If you don't shoot 300-500 rounds a month, stick to the less complex kits/systems or you will have a slower time recovering your investment. I've been loading for 41 years and have a room full of equipment, I make ammo that cannot be bought anywhere! I own multiple systems of reloading, so I can say with some authority; Start simple, and enjoy the process! Buy the best pieces of major equipment you can afford (press, scale, and powder measure) and you can use them the rest of your life, clear through your grandkids lives!(Cheap is usually short lived!)
Ivan
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I would also suggest starting with a single stage press. For that I think a Lee would be fine.
As to the Lee pro 1000, I had one. When it worked I could crank out 300 rounds an hour easily. The problem was that if primers didn't feed, as was often the case, the powder would pass through the flash hole and further gum up the works. After much frustration, I got rid of it.
As to the Lee pro 1000, I had one. When it worked I could crank out 300 rounds an hour easily. The problem was that if primers didn't feed, as was often the case, the powder would pass through the flash hole and further gum up the works. After much frustration, I got rid of it.
First, buy a good reloading manual. Study it and be sure you have the time and patience for the hobby. Next, buy a quality single stage press. There are a lot of tips, techniques and adjustments required to fine tune your final product. A progressive press for a newbie compounds things and leads to frustration. You will learn the hobby with time and practice but it is a never ending learning process.
MyDads38
Member
As most here, I started out with the Lee Loader kit. Moved on to a single stage RCBS and then to a Lee Turret press. I still have all the above, with the addition of 4 Lee Pro 1000 presses and a Lee Classic 4 hole turret press.
I would NOT recommend the Pro 1000 to anyone starting out. There's a lot to watch out for. I WOULD suggest the Classic 4 hole turret press, since it can be used as a single stage (remove indexing rod), or as a self indexing press. Either way, you have complete control over each step of the process and you can load up to 150-200 rounds per hour.
If you ever decided to add rifle cartridges, those could be reloaded on the Classic turret as well. A few good reloading manuals should also be on your list
Good luck and be safe!
I would NOT recommend the Pro 1000 to anyone starting out. There's a lot to watch out for. I WOULD suggest the Classic 4 hole turret press, since it can be used as a single stage (remove indexing rod), or as a self indexing press. Either way, you have complete control over each step of the process and you can load up to 150-200 rounds per hour.
If you ever decided to add rifle cartridges, those could be reloaded on the Classic turret as well. A few good reloading manuals should also be on your list
Good luck and be safe!Much good advice so far!
Like several others, I started loading for .38/.357 with the simple Lee kit (the one where you hammer the case into the die), quickly graduated to an RCBS single stage press (which still sees a lot of use for pistol and does all of my limited reloading for rifles), then added a Dillon Square Deal B progressive when I started competing heavily in USPSA and couldn't keep up with the single stage.
I doubt I have saved any money by reloading, but it sure has allowed me to shoot a whole lot more than if I was buying factory ammo!
Besides the economics angle, good reasons to reload your own are to tailor loads to your specific needs that might not be available commercially, such as needing to hit certain power factors required for sanctioned competition, or to use particular bullet weights or configurations that aren't commercially popular. There is also a measure of self-sufficiency that provides some comfort in knowing you can make your own ammo when the shelves are bare during a shortage (provided you have ample components on hand). Finally, reloading as a hobby unto itself can generate some satisfaction similar to catching a fish on a fly you tied yourself.
Like several others, I started loading for .38/.357 with the simple Lee kit (the one where you hammer the case into the die), quickly graduated to an RCBS single stage press (which still sees a lot of use for pistol and does all of my limited reloading for rifles), then added a Dillon Square Deal B progressive when I started competing heavily in USPSA and couldn't keep up with the single stage.
I doubt I have saved any money by reloading, but it sure has allowed me to shoot a whole lot more than if I was buying factory ammo!
Besides the economics angle, good reasons to reload your own are to tailor loads to your specific needs that might not be available commercially, such as needing to hit certain power factors required for sanctioned competition, or to use particular bullet weights or configurations that aren't commercially popular. There is also a measure of self-sufficiency that provides some comfort in knowing you can make your own ammo when the shelves are bare during a shortage (provided you have ample components on hand). Finally, reloading as a hobby unto itself can generate some satisfaction similar to catching a fish on a fly you tied yourself.
Wee Hooker
Member
Lee 1000's can be finicky in my experience. ( The loadmaster is even worse.) Both of mine would run fine ..until they didn't. Then it was a full up
day long engineering effort to figure out cause and effect of the failures. I sold mine off in the end . Tried a Dillon SDB but that had it's own issues and drawbacks. Eventually settled on the Lee Classic Turret machine. It's got the control of a single stage with about 60-70% the speed of a full progressive. They change caliber much easier ( and more cheaply) than just about anything else out there too. Best of all, they are as reliable as a hammer.
Search here for lots of discussion on the topic.
day long engineering effort to figure out cause and effect of the failures. I sold mine off in the end . Tried a Dillon SDB but that had it's own issues and drawbacks. Eventually settled on the Lee Classic Turret machine. It's got the control of a single stage with about 60-70% the speed of a full progressive. They change caliber much easier ( and more cheaply) than just about anything else out there too. Best of all, they are as reliable as a hammer.
Search here for lots of discussion on the topic.
I'm going to go the other direction. You are an experienced reloader, just a bit different than metallic cartridges, but you already understand the process & the potential to make mistakes. I believe you could handle a progressive to start. I know that's where I started, without the benifit of any shotshell experience.
I went with a Dillon 550 and took my time. Sure I made a few mistakes, but I wasn't irresponsible about it. I went to shotshell later, but also found where a single stage and turret press were handy. (both Lee) I use them for small batches of rifle ammo & snake shot for example. They have served me very well, but I'm glad I went with the Dillon progressive. I also bought (& still buy) reloading manuals from most everyone that printed them at the time (mid 90's). I think you'll be fine with whatever choice you make. Just read & follow the directions.
I went with a Dillon 550 and took my time. Sure I made a few mistakes, but I wasn't irresponsible about it. I went to shotshell later, but also found where a single stage and turret press were handy. (both Lee) I use them for small batches of rifle ammo & snake shot for example. They have served me very well, but I'm glad I went with the Dillon progressive. I also bought (& still buy) reloading manuals from most everyone that printed them at the time (mid 90's). I think you'll be fine with whatever choice you make. Just read & follow the directions.
LoboGunLeather
US Veteran
Started with a Lee Loader in 1972 ($6.88 sticker price still on the box). Within a year I picked up a single-stage RCBS press (used $25.00), Ohaus 10-10 scale (ANIB $30.00), Lachmiller powder measure (close-out sale $29.00). Over the years I have added other goodies (case trimmer, additional press, bullet molds, lead furnace, lubri-sizer machine). Have loaded dozens of different rifle and handgun calibers.
For decades every time I add a new caliber of firearm the first thing I do is order reloading dies and a bullet mold. I tend to buy primers in case lots, powder in 4 lb. to 8 lb. cannisters.
Bottom line is that I enjoy reloading ammunition, and I enjoy casting my own bullets. I would rather sit at my bench for a couple of hours in the evening than watch any of the stupid shows on TV. Chilly rainy days are perfect for bullet casting, with 3000-5000 bullets in a few hours (although in recent years I have succumbed to the temptation for buying hard-cast bullets by the thousand, delivered to my door for 6 or 7 cents each).
Rifle calibers I usually load in 100-round lots. Handgun calibers I usually work in lots of 500-1000 at a time. I prep my cases one day, size cases another day, seat primers another day, flare for bullet seating another day, charge with powder and seat bullets another day. I usually have two single-stage presses set up and in use. Usually, over the course of 4 or 5 days I can fully process and load 1000 rounds of handgun ammo, working at an easy rate for a couple of hours each evening.
Frequently I will pre-process handgun brass (clean, size, flare, prime) so that all I need to do is charge with powder and seat bullets. When I see my supply of a given caliber shrinking it is easy to add 500 or 1000 rounds with a couple of hours work, then prep another batch of brass to be ready next time.
During my years in PPC competition I regularly burned through 10,000 rounds or more per season. I spent winter evenings loading ammo and stockpiling for spring and summer matches.
Never used a progressive press, and never really felt the need. Now that I am retired I usually shoot 3 to 5 times per month, so 2500-3500 rounds per year or so for routine handgun practice. Not difficult to keep up with, I just keep plugging away.
For decades every time I add a new caliber of firearm the first thing I do is order reloading dies and a bullet mold. I tend to buy primers in case lots, powder in 4 lb. to 8 lb. cannisters.
Bottom line is that I enjoy reloading ammunition, and I enjoy casting my own bullets. I would rather sit at my bench for a couple of hours in the evening than watch any of the stupid shows on TV. Chilly rainy days are perfect for bullet casting, with 3000-5000 bullets in a few hours (although in recent years I have succumbed to the temptation for buying hard-cast bullets by the thousand, delivered to my door for 6 or 7 cents each).
Rifle calibers I usually load in 100-round lots. Handgun calibers I usually work in lots of 500-1000 at a time. I prep my cases one day, size cases another day, seat primers another day, flare for bullet seating another day, charge with powder and seat bullets another day. I usually have two single-stage presses set up and in use. Usually, over the course of 4 or 5 days I can fully process and load 1000 rounds of handgun ammo, working at an easy rate for a couple of hours each evening.
Frequently I will pre-process handgun brass (clean, size, flare, prime) so that all I need to do is charge with powder and seat bullets. When I see my supply of a given caliber shrinking it is easy to add 500 or 1000 rounds with a couple of hours work, then prep another batch of brass to be ready next time.
During my years in PPC competition I regularly burned through 10,000 rounds or more per season. I spent winter evenings loading ammo and stockpiling for spring and summer matches.
Never used a progressive press, and never really felt the need. Now that I am retired I usually shoot 3 to 5 times per month, so 2500-3500 rounds per year or so for routine handgun practice. Not difficult to keep up with, I just keep plugging away.
hotshot357
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While certainly not the cheapest...... Dillon's reloading equipment is the best (IMHO). Reloading 38/357 & .380 acp makes sense as Factory ammo is much more expensive than you can reload them for. With 9mm it's actually cheaper to buy Factory due to its overwhelming popularity these days - unless you just enjoy the hobby of reloading or want specialized custom loads - then do the 9's as well. 
Many times when "one buy's price" - one winds up buying twice! Choose wisely.
Many times when "one buy's price" - one winds up buying twice! Choose wisely.
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fredj338
Member
I know this gets some guys panties in a wad but if you want a progressive, DO NOT buy any Lee. Finicky is a kind word for how they run. If the idea is loading a bunch of ammo trouble free, then avoid the Lee. If you like to tinker as much as you reload, like retired with lots of time, then think of it as a challenge. Starting out though, new guys do not need such challenges imo. If you want a progressive, buy the Dillon or at least a Hornady LNL. You will have far less problems keeping them running.
fredj338
Member
I can agree except for speed thing. A LCT, from scratch, maybe 200rds / hour hauling butt. You can loaf on a Dillon or LNL & do 400rds in the same time AND do it with 3/4 of the handle pulls. Those 200 rds will cost you 600-800 handle pulls on the LCT, 203 on any progressive. So go fast or slow, you are doing a lot less work. Oh, and priming on the LCT is still problematic.
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My $.02:
I'll suggest getting one of the RCBS Rockchucker Kits. Mine is quite old so I'm not sure what the changes are. I see that the Master kit comes with a hand primer but doesn't seem to come with the primer arm setup for the press with primer feeder. I have that feature and I like it. That may be a separate purchase. The Master kit comes with a Nosler manual. I'd get a Lyman manual also. Even if you get a progressive press you'll always find a use for the single stage press. As for the progressive? Well I'm a Dillon fan. Go for a full 550 kit. My experience with Lee progressives has not been good. I do use a lot of Lee dies. I also have a cheap Lee hand press I take out to the range sometimes that is very handy. It can also be handy for some stuff you can do sitting on the couch watching TV.
Too cheap and handy not to have.
I'll suggest getting one of the RCBS Rockchucker Kits. Mine is quite old so I'm not sure what the changes are. I see that the Master kit comes with a hand primer but doesn't seem to come with the primer arm setup for the press with primer feeder. I have that feature and I like it. That may be a separate purchase. The Master kit comes with a Nosler manual. I'd get a Lyman manual also. Even if you get a progressive press you'll always find a use for the single stage press. As for the progressive? Well I'm a Dillon fan. Go for a full 550 kit. My experience with Lee progressives has not been good. I do use a lot of Lee dies. I also have a cheap Lee hand press I take out to the range sometimes that is very handy. It can also be handy for some stuff you can do sitting on the couch watching TV.
OP
Thanks to all for the good information. Looks like I have lots of reading and exploring to do. I will not be getting the Lee Pro 1000 Progressive since too many have had issues with it. I will more that likely look into single stage at first.
HorizontalMike
US Veteran
I reload, .38, .357, 9mm, and Rem .222
All I can say is.... JUMP IN WITH BOTH FEET and getr' goin'...!
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Twoboxer
Member
To answer your direct question, NO . . . the Lee Pro Progressive Press is not usually a good place to start. While it is workable - especially for someone who probably used a MEC - for most it presents far more mechanical issues and required tinkering than the dollar savings vs other presses warrant.
IMO there are only 3 progressive presses worth serious consideration at this time . . . Dillon 550, Dillon 650, and Hornady LNL AP. There are lots of single stage presses that can also be considered.
Approximately what volume of each caliber do you shoot per month or per year?
oysterer
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I started with a RCBS rock chucker to learn what is going on. I still use that for rifle exclusively and it is perfect for very accurately making 20 rifle rounds at a time in 1h.
For hand gun progressive is the way to go. 5 steps are doing in one stroke incl the time consuming priming. I run 2 Dillons, a 450 and a 550 and I do not suggest any others.
After you get the idea on the single stage, go for the Dillon 550B and don't waste money on any other machines where you end up spending more money on equipment you end up outgrowing or otherwise not liking. Thats just my personal opinion and worth $0.02.
For hand gun progressive is the way to go. 5 steps are doing in one stroke incl the time consuming priming. I run 2 Dillons, a 450 and a 550 and I do not suggest any others.
After you get the idea on the single stage, go for the Dillon 550B and don't waste money on any other machines where you end up spending more money on equipment you end up outgrowing or otherwise not liking. Thats just my personal opinion and worth $0.02.
I do not reload any more but when I did I used a 550 Dillon for pistols Alf a Lyman Spartan for rifle bullets. Still have thee Dillon but sold the Lyman. It cost 10 bucks new. Always used a powder scale and trickler for rifle
Old&Retired
US Veteran
Started reloading in the mid 80s with Lee equipment and that's all I've used since. I would recommend, as have others, that the Lee turret press is an excellent choice. For multiple calibers all you need is a turret insert and a set of dies for each. Less than a minute to change from one caliber to the next.
I reload for five handgun calibers and my AR. My biggest concern is making sure I've got the right powder and primers for each when I'm working.
I do still have my single stage Challenger press that I use for depriming only.
The Lee manual is a great start as is the Hornady 10th edition. As stated earlier read the first section first, then read it again!
Good luck and enjoy.
I reload for five handgun calibers and my AR. My biggest concern is making sure I've got the right powder and primers for each when I'm working.
I do still have my single stage Challenger press that I use for depriming only.
The Lee manual is a great start as is the Hornady 10th edition. As stated earlier read the first section first, then read it again!
Good luck and enjoy.
I would recommend starting with a single stage press, preferably a cast iron press. The RCBS Rockchucker or the Lyman Crusher II are two good examples.
You could also get a turret press and use it as a single stage press. Research several brands. The choices are not complex. But the point is that learning on a single stage press is good. Many people recommend a progressive press, but I think you will have a higher rate of success if you start on a single stage press or a turret press operated as a single stage press.
Second, RCBS carbide pistol dies are good. You still need a powder scale, caliper, some small manual case prep tools, and maybe a brass case cleaner (vibratory). Internet research will show they way. Keep it simple and manual.
.38 special is a good cartridge to learn on. HP-38 is a good powder. Start with 158 gn lead or jacketed bullets. Stay away from plated bullets to start. What you learn reloading .38 will transfer to other cartridges.
Go back and read the manual. Again.
Best thing- get a knowledge friend to help you go through the steps. It helps to learn hands-on as well as books.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
You could also get a turret press and use it as a single stage press. Research several brands. The choices are not complex. But the point is that learning on a single stage press is good. Many people recommend a progressive press, but I think you will have a higher rate of success if you start on a single stage press or a turret press operated as a single stage press.
Second, RCBS carbide pistol dies are good. You still need a powder scale, caliper, some small manual case prep tools, and maybe a brass case cleaner (vibratory). Internet research will show they way. Keep it simple and manual.
.38 special is a good cartridge to learn on. HP-38 is a good powder. Start with 158 gn lead or jacketed bullets. Stay away from plated bullets to start. What you learn reloading .38 will transfer to other cartridges.
Go back and read the manual. Again.
Best thing- get a knowledge friend to help you go through the steps. It helps to learn hands-on as well as books.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Okay, I will start this post by saying this afternoon I reloaded 750 rounds of 9mm on my Lee Pro 1000 in less than 90 minutes. But that was with prepared and primed cases.
I long ago started on a single stage press loading for pistol cartridges. I then moved to a Lee turret press and then to Lee Pro 1000's, only because the costs of the Lee presses allow me calibre specific presses permanently set up on my bench.
The only way I have found to get my Pro 1000's to work acceptably is to have two turret per calibre with seperate presses for .45 ACP, 9mm and .38 Special/.357 Magnum (with three turrets for the last two calibers).
For multiple calibers you will need multiple shell plates, except for .38 Spec/.357 Mag and 9mm/.38 Super/.40 S&W where the shell plates can handle multiple calibers.
One turret has only a sizing/depriming die in it. Lightly spray lube the cases then run them through the press. I then prime by hand and install the second turret which has powder expanding/drop, seating and factory crimp dies installed. Lightly relube the cases again and finish reloading. (Lubing is not necessary with carbide dies but I found that the cases would "stick" in both the depriming die and on the case expander button causing the cases to jump off the shell plate after the powder drop. Lubing prevents this happening).
I prefer the Lee auto drum powder measure not the auto disk which was problematic in a few areas.
Calibers like .44/40, .45 Colt, .38 S&W and .32 Auto I still reload on my old auto index turret press with the auto index function disabled (I could never get it to work properly anyway) as the case mouths are too thin (liable to damage) for use in a progressive press. Again I use the two turret system.
For a new reloader looking to get into pistol reloading I would suggest the Lee Turret press. Disable the auto index system and use it manually. The new Lee priming system and four hole turrets allow you maximum control loading one cartridge at a time. If you must go progressive then the new Lee Breach Lock press would be the way to go.
But be prepared at some time to upgrade. While my Pro 1000's suit my reloading most shooters will want to graduate to a Dillon at some time.
I long ago started on a single stage press loading for pistol cartridges. I then moved to a Lee turret press and then to Lee Pro 1000's, only because the costs of the Lee presses allow me calibre specific presses permanently set up on my bench.
The only way I have found to get my Pro 1000's to work acceptably is to have two turret per calibre with seperate presses for .45 ACP, 9mm and .38 Special/.357 Magnum (with three turrets for the last two calibers).
For multiple calibers you will need multiple shell plates, except for .38 Spec/.357 Mag and 9mm/.38 Super/.40 S&W where the shell plates can handle multiple calibers.
One turret has only a sizing/depriming die in it. Lightly spray lube the cases then run them through the press. I then prime by hand and install the second turret which has powder expanding/drop, seating and factory crimp dies installed. Lightly relube the cases again and finish reloading. (Lubing is not necessary with carbide dies but I found that the cases would "stick" in both the depriming die and on the case expander button causing the cases to jump off the shell plate after the powder drop. Lubing prevents this happening).
I prefer the Lee auto drum powder measure not the auto disk which was problematic in a few areas.
Calibers like .44/40, .45 Colt, .38 S&W and .32 Auto I still reload on my old auto index turret press with the auto index function disabled (I could never get it to work properly anyway) as the case mouths are too thin (liable to damage) for use in a progressive press. Again I use the two turret system.
For a new reloader looking to get into pistol reloading I would suggest the Lee Turret press. Disable the auto index system and use it manually. The new Lee priming system and four hole turrets allow you maximum control loading one cartridge at a time. If you must go progressive then the new Lee Breach Lock press would be the way to go.
But be prepared at some time to upgrade. While my Pro 1000's suit my reloading most shooters will want to graduate to a Dillon at some time.
max503
Member
I didn't know you could get a Lee progressive for $180. That's cheap. I had one years ago before I got my Dillon. Definitely not a good press to learn on, but if you are an experienced reloader, and you're mechanically inclined - then it sounds like a good deal.
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
What are your monthly ammo needs. I shoot several hundred rounds a week and my Lee Classic Turret Press is all I really need. I can safely load 180-200 rounds an hour with it.
Spare turrets are $10-$12 each so you can easily have separate turrets for each cartridge.
Spare turrets are $10-$12 each so you can easily have separate turrets for each cartridge.
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