Thinking of getting an M&P40

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I currently have a whole slew of other handguns, but I am thinking of picking up an M&P40. Are there things I should keep an eye out for? I found one from locally with 400 rounds through it, backstraps, 2 magazines, case, and paperwork. He wants $400 for it. Good price? Is it worth the extra $100 to get the newer rear sights and upgrades?

Thanks
joe
 
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this was posted by personal security....
Exactly correct. I'm getting a little tired of typing this, but it helps a lot of people, so until I decide to make a thread on it and someone stickies it, I'll just keep typing it.

This may not help you since you already bought the gun, but it could help you also. When looking to buy an M&P, look for a "stepped" rear sight vs. the traditional sloped sight. The notched sight - which is used for single hand malfunction drills off a belt buckle, boot, pant leg, etc. - is the newest version of the M&P.

S&W has quietly introduced some improvements to the M&P over the years. The biggest ones are the improved extractor and the improved striker. The new strikers are stainless steel while the old ones were black. If you already own an M&P, lock the slide back and look under the slide above the beavertail of the grip - silver or black?

As I mentioned, the notched ledge sight was the last improvement to the platform, so these models have all the improvements. The new striker is rated for over 100,000 dryfires (without snap caps) by S&W. The improved extractor is a big improvement also worth the pain of finding the most recent models.

You can also make sure your gun was made in 2010 to be sure it has the improvements (for people looking online w/o pictures or guns w/ night sights). To find the date of the pistol, you will need to have the seller (or gun shop) give you the 4 digit number located just below the SKU number on the white sticker that is on the side of the box. IT IS NOT PART OF THE SKU! It is below it on the right side and in slightly smaller print.

If the number is "0120", as an example, I will show you how to tell the date it was made. The first number, 0 in our example, stands for the year. 0 would mean 2010. A "9" would mean 2009, "8" 2008, etc.
The next set of 3 numbers, in our example "120", stands for the day of the year it was made. So "0120" means that it was made on the 120th day of 2010 - or sometime in the beginning of May 2010. If the number was "8020" then it was made on January 20th, 2008.

The old strikers (black ones) are VERY prone to breaking from dryfire without snap caps. This is pretty well documented and S&W obviously fixed it in a visual manner with the stainless strikers. Smith has a great lifetime warranty, but the bummer with the old striker is that it could very well break or have already broke prior to the "worst possible time". A broken pistol is just a crappy club if it doesn't work in a self defense situation.

If you have the old black striker, you have a few options. APEX makes an improved striker priced very reasonably that is said to be slightly better than even S&W's own improved striker. Another option would be to shoot it until it breaks, then have the gun repaired. A last option would be to.... send me an email so I can talk to you more about it and how to fix it!

the updated extractor and striker. Thanks...joe
 
Joe,
I showed where you can get a NEW M&P 40 for $420 (FS) or $438 (C). (It's where I bought my 9FS.) It will have the new stuff on it. Buy one. Avoid the hassle of buying used and "fixing."
 
that is now the plan...:) but you wanted to see the new stuff. Thanks for the link...now I just gottas decide between full size or compact. I think full size...

joe
 
I like the new rear sights alot so if I were you and picked up that $400 M&P40, I would use the $200 savings to buy the stepped/cocking shoulder sights and some extra mags and ammo.
 
It appears that S&W has also slipstreamed an improved (considerably larger) sear return spring and plunger after about 10/1/2010....

This should decrease the chances of "sear bounce" during recoil, which seems to occasionally result in a failure of the trigger to reset.

If you have the older one, Randy at Apex will upgrade it for you for peanuts if you're a DCAEK (or similar) customer, or about $25 for others, both prices not including shipping. The sear block assembly is NOT a firearm, and can be mailed or shipped just about any way you feel like. Brownells (and, I'm told, Midway) has 'em for something like $30 plus shipping if you're concerned about insurance :). I'm not sure whether they've got the upgraded version or not. (Brownells was out of stock for a while - they may have a batch of the new ones by now.)

Just as an IMHO, I've got a full size and a compact .40. The little one is kinda snappy, but only slightly worse than an Officer's sized 1911 (I've got two of those). Shouldn't be a problem. The full size is pretty obviously a .40, too, but not unpleasant. Both have the Apex DCAEK and RAM kits. The RAM kit is a real YMMV thing. About all it really does is to make some noise when the sear resets. Some of the guys report it makes the reset more positive. I can't tell.... However, since I was having sear bounce problems, I like the tactile improvement.

My little one shot better than the big one, btw, until I put XS sights on it. Not exactly for paper-punching.... But they work otherwise. The sights on the big one were off - both the front and rear! NBD to bash 'em into place, but the front sight is tough to move.

I just ordered an M&P9C - it'll be for my daughter if she doesn't decide to move to New York this winter. (Can't talk her out of it....) She's old enough to buy her own (and make this sort of decision), but Daddy had the XD9SC to swap with :D....

Enjoy!
 
i am leading towards the full size for a few reasons. I have an xd9sc, kahr cw9, and a cz40 in a compact frame all for carry. So thats 3 smaller framed carry guns. I also have a 92fs full size, so I think a full size 40 would go nicely. That way its....2 9mm carry, 1 40cal for carry. 1 9mm for target, now i would have a 40 for target. seems good enough to me! I would probably have the MP40 as my HD gun to go along with the shotguns..:)

joe
 
The S&W M&P was originally designed as a full size 40 cal. I would think that because of this the FS40 should be the most reliable.

If this gun is going to be a HD gun I would listen to SMMAssociates. He really has a handle on the big picture. It's taken S&W five years to work the bugs out of the M&P. Although I haven't experienced "dead trigger" from "sear bounce", one of my shooting buddies has.

A lot of people will tell you S&W has a good warranty (which is true) but when someone breaks into your house and your gun doesn't work that warranty won't do you much good. (BTW, my next door neighbor's house WAS broken in to last week).

So my advice is to spend the extra money to get a recent gun. And SMMA is correct, only guns made in the last couple of months have ALL the upgrades.
 
this was posted by personal security....


the updated extractor and striker. Thanks...joe

Hello. This is my first time posting in this M&P auto pistol sub-forum as I've only been a S&W revolver owner thus far. But I'm looking to get an M&P 40.

Anyway, does this apply to the 40 compact as well? I went to the local shop yesterday to fondle one and the guy behind the counter wasn't clear on the "improvements" made in 2010. He also wanted me to point to some official evidence from S&W that outlined what had changed otherwise it was "just something I read on the internet." Are these details above what I should look for on the compact as well or can anybody else provide more info? Thanks for your help. JAS
 
Getting blamed for everything.... :D

(It's "Stu". "SMM Associates" is my business. Back in the day, there was an underscore in there, but explaining that got to be interesting while people had little idea. So I squished it....)

Anyway, it looks like the high-round-count guns are at risk, as well as Compacts (in particular) with the Apex kits. Apparently the stronger spring (or wear on the sear block) can help the sear bounce occur. Add an even stronger spring and a bigger plunger, and that seems to solve it.

Figure ten days round-trip to Apex. At this time it appears that you can't get sear block assemblies with the new parts from anybody, but Apex will do it for about $20 for customers, or about $50 for others, including shipping. Note that the sear block is NOT a firearm, and can be shipped any old way. Eventually we can get new sear blocks from Brownells for $30-ish plus shipping with the upgrade, but they don't seem to have 'em yet. (They do have the old ones. Odd 'cause it seems like a new batch just showed up - I asked them about this about three weeks ago.)

JAS: There's pretty much no difference between the Full Size .40 and the Compact. (The M&P9C also appears to be the same, but I just got one with a thumb safety, and should have done more spelunking in the sear block - it seems a little different.... IAC, the "reports" are the same.)

I think it's safe to buy now.... If you don't get a new one, Apex will fix you up real fast.

Strictly "I read it on the internet", but you can date your gun by looking on the box. On the sticker, below the serial number, is a four-digit number. I'm too lazy to figure out the exact number, but something like "0300" ought to be a new one.... (It's the last digit of the year plus the "day number".) Both of my Compacts date from about the first of April on that basis, and both lack the updated sear block, but oddly the older one - by a few weeks - and the most recent purchase for me - has the newer "stepped" rear sight.

There appears to be no other way to tell without taking the sear block out of the gun and popping the sear out of the block. This may result in flying parts if you have the upgrade :D... IAC, the old sear plunger is about the size of a mechanical pencil lead. The new one's about as big as the lead in a #2 wooden pencil. The Apex small spring looks exactly like the original spring, but you can feel the difference if you press down on the sear and compare that with an un-modified gun. The new S&W spring & plunger may be sufficient for many people without changing the spring. (The DCAEK kit now contains an upgraded spring for the updated sear block, too.)

The idea is that you install the sear and firing pin drop safety plunger, and then mix & match the springs for the best feel. Or just install everything....

JAS - your dealer may not be aware of this. They really don't want to be stuck with a gun they can't sell or have to discount, too. Look for the code date (I think that information is accurate) when you buy....

Just between us, IMHO, if you don't put the Apex kit into a gun, you probably won't see this problem without a fairly high round count.

You DO shoot regularly? :D

You DO have at least one other gun? :D

(Putting on Pontifical hat, as a Moderator on another firearms-related forum.)

You are hereby commanded to shoot more, and buy more....

Tell that to your spouse or significant other. Sammy will defend me....

(help)

Regards,
 

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