This old revolver - can you help?

[roux]

Thank you all in advance for any help you might be able to provide. I am new here and anxious to comply with forum etiquette, so please let me know how I might improve. I promise to accept any criticism as, "constructive".

I have recently applied for a ccw and thought to replace my really old revolver with something along the lines of a Glock 9mm 43x. I inherited a "Smith and Wesson 38 s.d.w. special ctg" and have never had a need to fire it. I'm of a mind to mitigate the cost of a new Glock by trading the S&W in, but have no idea of the age or value. Any information would be amazing! Bless you all!

Barrel length: 4"
Sights: Hand Ejector Fixed
Serial #: C 20299
Model #: None
Strain Screw: Yes
Screws: 4 visible

 

[robertrwalsh]

It appears to be a dirt common M&P .38 special, likely from 1948. I am confident somebody with better info will be along soon. It isn't pristine but neither is it without value.

 

[roux]

Thanks, Robertrwalsh! That's pretty much what I expected, but I find the operation of it a bit too much for my small hand. It has little value to me which is why I am eager to upgrade to something more suited to ccw and easier firing mechanism. I appreciate you!

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Welcome to the forums, roux! Yep, a .38 Military & Police hand ejector. It's a 5 screw since there is one under the right grip panel. BTW the caliber is .38 S&W Special CTG. The ampersand S&W uses in that era is called "lazy" due to the exaggerated base that does sorta make it look like a d and CTG is "cartridge" abbreviated. Your version of the .38 M&P with the short-throw action was introduced in 1948. The M&P model itself has been produced since 1899 with about 7 million made.

 

[s&wchad]

Welcome aboard!

Your .38 Special Military & Police revolver is a fine gun that's been extremely popular for a long time. It could use a good cleaning. I suggest you get a box of target ammo and shoot it before trading it off. It's a lot more manageable than a compact 9mm and a dealer probably wouldn't allow much in trade.

You never mentioned your shooting experience, but you may want to find a range that rents carry guns and shoot a compact 9mm before buying one.

 

[roux]

Welcome aboard!

Your .38 Special Military & Police revolver is a fine gun that's been extremely popular for a long time. It could use a good cleaning. I suggest you get a box of target ammo and shoot it before trading it off. It's a lot more manageable than a compact 9mm and a dealer probably wouldn't allow much in trade.

You never mentioned your shooting experience, but you may want to find a range that rents carry guns and shoot a compact 9mm before buying one.

I thank you for the info! I was raised on a farm in North Louisiana and learned to shoot at a young age. I have owned many firearms including a Belgium Browning .22 LR and took my Ladies Defense class using a Dan Wesson .357 with orange target sights. Unfortunately, criminals decided that they needed those arms worse than I did. I was gifted a nice Browning 20ga shotgun once I started bringing down doves (you really gotta lead those suckers) , but I loaned it to a youngster to do some duck-hunting and it ended up at the bottom of a lake. Better the gun than the kiddo! So I am over my attachment to guns; just need something to get the job done, as it were. Oh! I did buy a .22 250 a couple of years ago to get rid of a pest. It took two shots but then, I hadn't really sighted the scope in. Eye shot. So yeah, I can shoot okay.

 

[roux]

Welcome to the forums, roux! Yep, a .38 Military & Police hand ejector. It's a 5 screw since there is one under the right grip panel. BTW the caliber is .38 S&W Special CTG. The ampersand S&W uses in that era is called "lazy" due to the exaggerated base that does sorta make it look like a d and CTG is "cartridge" abbreviated. Your version of the .38 M&P with the short-throw action was introduced in 1948. The M&P model itself has been produced since 1899 with about 7 million made.

Ah, thanks! Y'all are brilliant and I'm so glad that I found my way here.

 

[HOUSTON RICK]

Hi! When people ask me about carry guns, I remind them that using a semi-automatic handgun implies some regular practice. It is your money and life, but at your level of proficiency, it might be better for you to stick with the revolver for now. The semi-automatic has a safety and cycling function that a revolver skips. It may not sound like much, but under pressure it can be life and death. Good luck whatever you choose!

 

[roux]

Hi! When people ask me about carry guns, I remind them that using a semi-automatic handgun implies some regular practice. It is your money and life, but at your level of proficiency, it might be better for you to stick with the revolver for now. The semi-automatic has a safety and cycling function that a revolver skips. It may not sound like much, but under pressure it can be life and death. Good luck whatever you choose!

Thanks for the advice. It does sound as though I need to take it out to the range. I don't dry-fire it (not sure that's a real term) but the trigger feels really stiff to me and I'm concerned about that moment of panic should it ever occur.


Being totally unfamiliar with a semi-automatic I will lean on the wise council received here and do some practice shooting.



Y'all are the best.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

If the trigger is stiff, the action may be gummed up with dried lubricant. I suggest soaking it in a 50-50 mixture of acetone and auto transmission fluid for a few days (remove the grips first). Then, spray the action down with aersol carb/parts/brake cleaner until the effluent runs clear. That should free up the action. Wipe all the surface rust off with a cotton or microfiber cloth to make Chad happier. About 5 drops of gun oil in the action and you're good to go.

 

[roux]

If the trigger is stiff, the action may be gummed up with dried lubricant. I suggest soaking it in a 50-50 mixture of acetone and auto transmission fluid for a few days (remove the grips first). Then, spray the action down with aersol carb/parts/brake cleaner until the effluent runs clear. That should free up the action. Wipe all the surface rust off with a cotton or microfiber cloth to make Chad happier. About 5 drops of gun oil in the action and you're good to go.

I can do that! Thanks!

 

[robertrwalsh]

As several noted above, there is nothing wrong with a revolver for self defense though this particular one might be a bit big for you to carry. A revolver is operationally simpler than a semi-auto. If you are not essentially mechanical and are unlikely to get regular practice you might want to seriously consider a revolver. Just a thought.

 

[Doug M.]

Doing your research as you seem to be doing is a good start. The level of knowledge here about revolvers is good. A decent revolver can be a very serviceable defensive platform, but your mention of hand size may have been overlooked.

If possible, go to a decent sized commercial range and try different platforms before buying. Even if you have to drive 100 miles to find one with a decent selection and hopefully good instructors, the investment in knowledge of what might or might not work for you is worth it. You want something that you shoot well, feels reasonably comfortable and has characteristics consistent with having it on you at just about all times when lawful.

Barring some unusual value I don't see, the trade value of your revolver is modest. In today's world, it has a niche market. You might find it worthwhile to ask here about gunsmiths near you who can open, clean, and maybe smooth out the action a bit. Being in the south, you are less likely to encounter a bad actor in heavy clothes, so even target wadcutters of decent quality might suffice and be pretty easy to shoot. Standard velocity SWC are ample for most people, and they are actually what I use most on my M66 (.357) revolver. (Placement matters more than anything else, and I can shoot them well and fast.) The biggest problem you may encounter with a .38 is finding ammo of those types. That does not make the revolver less worthwhile; it just makes for some effort in getting what you need.

I am better trained on autopistols; it is what I used in my academy and as a reserve cop for a long time, although I did carry a .41 magnum sometimes and have a real duty holster for it. It is just easier today to find good auto pistols (your suggestion of a 43X is not bad, and I suspect from your description a single column magazine is your friend) and support gear. For training ammo generally, any adequate quality ball ammo is fine. For carry, use your favorite search engine to find the research and suggestions of Dr. Gary Roberts and pick one of the loads he supports.

 

[roux]

Doing your research as you seem to be doing is a good start. The level of knowledge here about revolvers is good. A decent revolver can be a very serviceable defensive platform, but your mention of hand size may have been overlooked.

If possible, go to a decent sized commercial range and try different platforms before buying. Even if you have to drive 100 miles to find one with a decent selection and hopefully good instructors, the investment in knowledge of what might or might not work for you is worth it. You want something that you shoot well, feels reasonably comfortable and has characteristics consistent with having it on you at just about all times when lawful.

Barring some unusual value I don't see, the trade value of your revolver is modest. In today's world, it has a niche market. You might find it worthwhile to ask here about gunsmiths near you who can open, clean, and maybe smooth out the action a bit. Being in the south, you are less likely to encounter a bad actor in heavy clothes, so even target wadcutters of decent quality might suffice and be pretty easy to shoot. Standard velocity SWC are ample for most people, and they are actually what I use most on my M66 (.357) revolver. (Placement matters more than anything else, and I can shoot them well and fast.) The biggest problem you may encounter with a .38 is finding ammo of those types. That does not make the revolver less worthwhile; it just makes for some effort in getting what you need.

I am better trained on autopistols; it is what I used in my academy and as a reserve cop for a long time, although I did carry a .41 magnum sometimes and have a real duty holster for it. It is just easier today to find good auto pistols (your suggestion of a 43X is not bad, and I suspect from your description a single column magazine is your friend) and support gear. For training ammo generally, any adequate quality ball ammo is fine. For carry, use your favorite search engine to find the research and suggestions of Dr. Gary Roberts and pick one of the loads he supports.

You've read me pretty well. I'm concerned about the, "what if" because as stated earlier, I've not fired a pistol in many years and I've forgotten most of what I once knew about them. I did own a Ruger Blackhawk .357 once and if I remember correctly, could use both .357 and .38 caliber bullets. I've neither owned nor fired a semi-automatic handgun but we like to go camping and the world is getting crazy. I will most definitely take the advice of this community and educate myself. Wadcutters. I vaguely remember the term but it's been so long. Here's what I have:

 

[roux]

As several noted above, there is nothing wrong with a revolver for self defense though this particular one might be a bit big for you to carry. A revolver is operationally simpler than a semi-auto. If you are not essentially mechanical and are unlikely to get regular practice you might want to seriously consider a revolver. Just a thought.

Gotcha. I'm pretty mechanical, just have no knowledge of semi-automatics. I like straight-six motors and...oh Lord, I'm dating myself.



Practice may be in order.

 

[Birdhunter6]

I shoot S&W revolvers and Glocks myself. If a student wants a semiauto IMHO the only reason not to suggest a Glock first, is if the Glocks don't fit their hands.

The striker fired Walthers are very popular with those shooters. As stated above, go to a rental range and try both.

Quick simple check: With a good shooting grip, first pad of trigger finger on the face of the trigger, is there space between trigger finger and frame? If not, look for a pistol with a smaller grip.

Good luck

 

[roux]

I shoot S&W revolvers and Glocks myself. If a student wants a semiauto IMHO the only reason not to suggest a Glock first, is if the Glocks don't fit their hands.

The striker fired Walthers are very popular with those shooters. As stated above, go to a rental range and try both.

Quick simple check: With a good shooting grip, first pad of trigger finger on the face of the trigger, is there space between trigger finger and frame? If not, look for a pistol with a smaller grip.

Good luck

Yes, exactly. Will do!

 

[Doug M.]

3 of the rounds pictures look like SWC (semi wadcutters). The square shape of those improve the cutting action of the round. A wadcutter is the square faced blunt load almost almost loaded even with the top of the cartridge case. They can be pretty hard to reload in a hurry, so many suggest wadcutters in the cylinder and SWC for reloads (usually in a speed loader). From what I know, that's a good idea.

Another single column pistol I like is my PC shield with 4" barrel and RDS. My old eyes like RDS. As long as you need to train up with a semi auto anyway, depending on your eyes, starting with a RDS is not a bad idea.

Holsters are another annoyance. There are good designs and makers out there in both leather and kydex. Your body will have a big impact. Shoulder flexibility is an issue - if you have joint problems, a higher riding holster might be a no go.

Depending on where you are in the south, forum member BMCM does good work. I prefer to drive rather than ship a firearm, as that has become a bigger pain than it used to be. (He hangs out mostly in the third generation subform.)

You gave a good enough description of who you are and what drives your considerations that I don't think my reading of you was brilliant.

Home defense issues should be considered in layers. I have pontificated more than once on such, and you can search up those strings. TO ME, the firearm(s) are the last consideration. Environmental stuff (lights, fences, locks, dogs and the like) that make your home less attractive and a bigger pain in the butt are your friends. They discourage bad actors and provide evidence in your favor about the need to use defensive lethal force. (I'm a prosecutor in our civil division but much of my experience is criminal prosecution; our office does both because of WA law.) The more work an offender has to do to get to you, the less likely they are to do so, and if they put in the effort, the more clear your case for self-defense.

 

[tops]

I don't think it will hurt the gun to dry fire it so after you clean it (post 10) dry fire it a few times each day for several days and then you can decide if the trigger pull is to difficult. A revolver is more simple to operate than an auto. My advice is a little one sided because I have a soft spot for 5 screw, 4 inch, .38 Spec. with the 1/2 moon front sight. Larry

 

[kscharlie]

It is apparent that you have done your homework before coming here. You took a self defense course and used a .357 magnum. If you can handle a DW .357, you can handle any 9mm on the planet. I disagree with the statement that "a revolver is more simple to operate than an auto." A revolver's double action is looooong with a heavy pull. The trigger pull on any auto is much easier to deal with. It takes two hands to perform a reload with a revolver. Sometimes it is difficult to push the cylinder release forward with one hand, open the cylinder with the other hand, tip the gun to eject the empties, then fumble around to do a reload. On an auto, you push a button and the magazine falls out. Insert a fresh mag with the offhand, release the slide and you are ready to go. The key to any auto being used for self defense is to make sure it is 100% reliable. And I mean 100%.

In your first post you mentioned a Glock 43X. That would be an excellent choice. I don't own a Glock, but there is nothing wrong with them. They just don't seem to like me. My primary CCW is a S&W Shield Plus, with no manual safety. They have a Glock like trigger. Glocks don't have a manual safety either. Sometimes I carry a .38 J frame. But I prefer the Shield (13 rounds being better than 5).

Good advice above to try to find a shop that has a good selection of rentals and give different ones a try. It is obvious to me that you are capable of making an intelligent and thoughtful choice. Good luck.

I almost forgot...if you can find some more good training, it will be money well spent. One last point...when you go to a gun shop and the guy behind the counter tries to change your mind and direct you to a different gun, inform him that you have made your decision and that is that.