timing off?

brick

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This morning I tried to shoot my pre-24 Model 1950 44 special target. When in double action, the firing pin hits the side of the case. In single action, when I pull the hammer back the cylinder spins at bit too much and does not seem to lock up. I can physically turn the cylinder to lock it and then fire. What could be the problem? Maybe I should take the sideplate off and give it a good cleaning? Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Out of time.....the hand or star on cyl are worn and need attention.Maybe replaced or recut.Get it to a gunsmith that knows what he is doing. If you are in So Cal PM me and I will take a look at it for you.
 
This morning I tried to shoot my pre-24 Model 1950 44 special target. When in double action, the firing pin hits the side of the case. In single action, when I pull the hammer back the cylinder spins at bit too much and does not seem to lock up.
It sounds like you are saying the cylinder can spin past lock position? That sounds like a problem with the cylinder stop bolt (at the bottom under the cylinder) not locking in well enough.
 
I bought this revolver almost NIB with a very faint cylinder ring on it. I have shot it once before and did not have this problem. In single action, I have to turn the cylinder until it stops and then fire it. I did not think to try that in double action. I fired it twice then stopped.
 
I had a revolver do this. I found the hand was riding over the top of the extractor ratchet. It was not a matter of wear, the hand just did not "drop in" properly.
 
I will take it to my smith and have him look at it. Thanks all.
 
timing

Sounds like a new wider hand needs to be fit. Never file the ratchets on the extractor unless trained to perform that function.
 
I wanted to let everyone know that my problem on my pre-24 was fixed by replacing the cylinder stop. It had burrs on it and was not snapping up when the trigger was pulled back. As soon as it stops raining, I will take it to the range and try it out.
 
Glad it was resolved.

I was going to say that the condition you were experiencing seemed, from your description, to be what S&W calls "throw-by", where the cylinder stop doesn't engage in a cylinder stop notch and stop the cylinder during its rotation.

If the cylinder stop drops down below the level of the frame and becomes trapped by the frame, or for some other reason isn't rising up and properly engaging a cylinder stop notch (fitting, burrs, defective/worn part, spring problem, heavy fouling/debris in parts, etc.), the cylinder can continue to spin until loss of momentum occurs.
 

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