Awww... Darn near spewed coffee into my keyboard! Thankfully, I just dribbled off my chin.
I see a Photoshop opportunity . . . . A hand ejector with a Zerk fitting on the side.
To lube or not to lube....
- Thread starter oldiesradio1560
- Start date
Awww... Darn near spewed coffee into my keyboard! Thankfully, I just dribbled off my chin.
I see a Photoshop opportunity . . . . A hand ejector with a Zerk fitting on the side.
I choose to lube.
New to me revolvers get sideplate removed.
Ongoing maintenance... no sideplate removal unless necessary. Spray out with light CLP (I like BreakFree, but there are others also suitable) then compressed air. Repeat as needed until no more gunk comes out. Finish with air.
New to me revolvers get sideplate removed.
Ongoing maintenance... no sideplate removal unless necessary. Spray out with light CLP (I like BreakFree, but there are others also suitable) then compressed air. Repeat as needed until no more gunk comes out. Finish with air.
Qc Pistolero
Member
Discovered the product less than a year ago.Works greatamundo!IThis morning,it was minus 15*C(aprox 7*F)and shot 100rds through a model 14 and the same in a CZ 9mm and not a single hiccup.In the same while,a few guys experienced a few jams(autos and regular oil on the frame/slide ).Ballistol smells bad but it works!
Qc
Mumbly-Peg
Member
Yeah, Ballistol is my do-everything CLP, jack of all trades. It doesn't stand out as great at anything, but it really doesn't do anything poorly.
Mumbly-Peg
Member
A word to the guys worried about oiling the inside of your Smiths because of attracting dirt.
I just brought my first revolver home, a 627 pro, brand new in the box. I opened up the side plate (easy, no damage to anything including the screws, using my wheeler screwdriver kit), and lo and behold, the inside had a light film of gritty oil on it. Smith does not ship their revolvers dry, or at least mine wasn't.
I wiped off the gross oil and sprayed it lightly with some CLP and a couple drops of kroil in the intricate bits, blew it out, left it to pool out as little, wiped a couple spots of seepage, and put it back together. The hardest thing was lining the hammer block up with the side plate.
It's no more "wet" than it came, but it's much cleaner, and the DA pull is very noticeably smoother.
I just brought my first revolver home, a 627 pro, brand new in the box. I opened up the side plate (easy, no damage to anything including the screws, using my wheeler screwdriver kit), and lo and behold, the inside had a light film of gritty oil on it. Smith does not ship their revolvers dry, or at least mine wasn't.
I wiped off the gross oil and sprayed it lightly with some CLP and a couple drops of kroil in the intricate bits, blew it out, left it to pool out as little, wiped a couple spots of seepage, and put it back together. The hardest thing was lining the hammer block up with the side plate.
It's no more "wet" than it came, but it's much cleaner, and the DA pull is very noticeably smoother.
springer99
Member
I'm a fan of lubing under the side plate, but I've come to rely totally on one of the "dry-lubes" like One-Shot. I moved away from traditional oils/greases after seeing how much tee-shirt fuzz, etc. my guns ended up collecting, especially when carried IWB. True for my semi's as well.
Any no, unless I'm changing springs, etc. I don't even normally pull the side-plate. Just remove the grips and shoot it into any opening. The liquid carrier flashes off quickly and I just end up with a dry, wax lube and protectorant.
Any no, unless I'm changing springs, etc. I don't even normally pull the side-plate. Just remove the grips and shoot it into any opening. The liquid carrier flashes off quickly and I just end up with a dry, wax lube and protectorant.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
I been using a moly paste inside all my guns since '70's. Just a little will do. I clean the insides by removing the side plate(sw) then lube all the metal to metal contact moving parts with the TS-70 moly paste. I reassemble the gun and run the action so the moly works into the pores of the metal parts. It will feel tight at first, once it works into the metal it will go back to feeling normal. As it works in more and more it will feel like a action job was done. If it remains tight after working the action you have too much moly in it. Just a little will do.
I do lube my revolvers, pistols, bolt action rifles, semi auto rifles with moly.
On my brand new s&w m57 & m58 they had two different feeling triggers/ actions. The m57 was silky smooth while the m58 was rougher. I lubed the m58 action with moly and the roughness was gone. Both trigger pulls were very close to the same feel now. I pretty much like all my trigger pulls to be the same or as close to the same feel as I can get them. This way I can pickup and handgun any caliber and have the same, or close accuracy with it. I don't have to reset my trigger finger pull for each gun.
Moly,
Eliminates wear
Reduces friction
Prevents galling
Fights corrosion
Stays where you put it. Don't use too much.
My guns never leave home with out it.
T.S. Moly Lubricants Inc. ts-70 moly paste. A $25 can goes a long way.
I do lube my revolvers, pistols, bolt action rifles, semi auto rifles with moly.
On my brand new s&w m57 & m58 they had two different feeling triggers/ actions. The m57 was silky smooth while the m58 was rougher. I lubed the m58 action with moly and the roughness was gone. Both trigger pulls were very close to the same feel now. I pretty much like all my trigger pulls to be the same or as close to the same feel as I can get them. This way I can pickup and handgun any caliber and have the same, or close accuracy with it. I don't have to reset my trigger finger pull for each gun.
Moly,
Eliminates wear
Reduces friction
Prevents galling
Fights corrosion
Stays where you put it. Don't use too much.
My guns never leave home with out it.
T.S. Moly Lubricants Inc. ts-70 moly paste. A $25 can goes a long way.
Mumbly-Peg
Member
I've used dry lube for household fixed and was left impressed. I might try that in the future.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
If you have a 1911 do a test with moly. First run the empty slide dry to see how much friction. Then apply moly to the rails and burnish itbin by running the slide about 75-100 cycles. Then wipe the excess off and run the slide. It will be silky smooth.
