To lube or not to lube....

Guns are machines, and most of the critical parts are made of metal.

Metal parts rubbing against each other will experience wear. Every time two pieces of bare metal rub against each other molecules of metal are being scraped off of one or both of them. That is the definition of wear.

Lubricants are used to provide a slippery film that actually acts as a barrier between the two parts. It reduces or even eliminates the actual physical contact between them.

Those are the simple facts of physics. Draw your own conclusions.

Very well said and 100% true. ( As a young mechanical engineer, I spent allot of time calculating /testing wear on faying surfaces of moving parts.)
I would ad that how much /speed of wear depends largely on the contact areas , finish and hardness of those materials as well as the force between them. All that said a little wear is a good thing. It's why a well used revolver has a smoother action than a new one. Premature wear is also what the gunsmith puts onto those moving parts during an action job.
FWiW: I generally run the inside of my semi auto's wet and my revolvers dry.
 
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If you don't take the side plate off you can't repair the horrendous trigger pulls coming out of the factory these days. As a competitive shooting my revolvers have 4.5 to 5.5 pound triggers and light off Federal Primers 100 % of the time. This cannot be done with a stock trigger action.

I lube the action with M-Pro 7 gun oil, just wiping the parts and I'm done.

I've put over 60k rounds through the guns after doing the trigger job and never had a problem.
 
If you go to revolver armorer's school, you'll find out that a S&W revolver needs no lube under the sideplate. If you don't, because you know better, you soak up the innards with the popular grease of the day and then wonder why you have to keep doing so . . .

This is absolutely true. The people who build these guns recommend no lubrication under the side plate.
 
I dip a toothpick in M-7 Pro oil and put a drop on the hammer pivot, rebound slide, sear and bolt when I remove the side plates on my Airweight carry guns. The crane also gets a very small amount of lube. I found metal shavings inside my 642-1 and 616-6, so I always take a peek at new S&Ws by removing the side plate.

Used revolvers, well I've purchased quite a few which had been liberally "lubed" with WD-40. Time for a cleaning and proper lube.

Unbelievably, my favorite gun shop uses only WD-40 to clean, lube and wipe down their guns! The owner says it's cheap and when you clean hundreds of guns a year it adds up. Now, he suggests one of the good, somewhat pricey modern lubes he sells to his customers. He thinks I'm nuts because I use the expensive stuff, though he loves my trade in guns because they are so clean and slick working.
 
IMHO, the use of lube depends greatly upon the use of the firearm. On the more recent S&W products incorporating MIM parts, you will find the wear surfaces to be very smooth, requiring very little if any lube. On older guns with machined parts, this is not the case unless someone took the time to stone the surfaces smooth.

Steel on steel contact, especially in rubbing form instead of simple push against contact, causes friction, even for smooth parts. But it's the amount of friction that is important. The surfaces of an engine's crankshaft for example would be in contact with a bearing surface for anything from 600 RPM to 6000 RPM, which would produce incredible friction, especially when one considers the lateral forces pushing against it by the pistons, were it not for the oil film provided by the engine's motor oil. We tend to carry this necessity over to all things metallic, when in fact it is not necessary and can even be detrimental. The internal parts of your revolver will never experience the wear forces an internal combustion experiences in one minute over the entire lifetime of the revolver, unless perhaps you shoot competition weekly, in which case, I'll extend that to 2 minutes tops.

If you take the side plate off your S&W and use a light coating of a thin oil such as Rem Oil, you will likely never have a problem, provided you periodically repeat the process, properly cleaning the old oil and accumulated grunge with it. Oil traps and holds any particles it comes in contact with, including dirt, sand, skin cells, dust and most importantly, byproducts of the powder combustion process. The interior of these revolvers isn't sealed, and 'stuff' will get inside. Lack of oil allows these contaminants to fall away to the lowest part (thanks to gravity), which can keep them away from the most important moving parts, the hammer and trigger pivot points and sear engagement areas.

Using some lubricants can actually cause a firearm to fail. Heavy oil (think motor oil here) and "gun" grease can become sludge or even act like glue on a cold winter morning. That's why I use nothing but Rem oil on my revolvers. Yes, you read that right, I use oil, as I'm old school. But as cited above, I disassemble and clean religiously thus avoiding the build up of dirt in my firearms.

So to the basic question: is it needed? Nope, not according to the factory nor logic of the new types of parts used. Will that stop old guys like me who grew up with parts made under different conditions and who were told metal against metal is always bad? Nope again. So OP, it's up to you to decide for yourself.
 
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All.
If you use thin enough oil, the excess will run out the cracks. Wipe the gun down now and then to mop up the excess. Won't gum up and won't run dry.
Bill@Yuma
In my experience, the "synthetic oils," just like in my car, work better, last longer, & won't dry out (gum up). So I would add thin enough SYNTHETIC oil to your excellent advice (which I assume you used, but didn't specify, because they seem to dominate).
 
Ummm, yeah, that would be legaliese for
"if you forget to put the hammer safety block back in and someone gets hurt or killed when you drop your gun, we're not responsible because we told you not to take it apart"
clause.

Disclaimers about not taking a gun apart and maintenance instructions to lube metal on metal parts are totally unrelated.

Realistically, comparing the two is like saying that because the owners manual of your new car says to take it to the stealership for service, you should ignore the manual's instructions to periodically check and top up the engine oil. Maintenance/lube and tearing down the engine (or your gun) are two totally different things.

Exactly. Everyone is liability crazy. In my opinion ALL metal parts need lubricant. Yes you can over do it or use the wrong kind, but I want some form of oil or grease on all metal parts.
 
Exactly. Everyone is liability crazy. In my opinion ALL metal parts need lubricant. Yes you can over do it or use the wrong kind, but I want some form of oil or grease on all metal parts.

Everyone is liability cray because our civil court system has become a lottery where some idiot will get a big payoff for suing every company in any way connected to a product if said idiot can find some way to hurt themselves with it. And unfortunately the odds for them winning are a lot better than the real lottery.

My grandpa always said "grease & oil are a lot cheaper than parts and labor". He was a pretty smart fella in my opinion...
 
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As others have said I lube sparingly with sideplates off. I use a tiny bit of Ballistol and then blow it off with compressed air or canned air. It just leaves a sheen.
 
The best way to clean a revolver, is to open the cylinder, get the gun down to rest on the gripm barrel and ejector rod, and then completely hose the barrel, forcing cone, crane arm and cylinder with Balistol. Let it sit for 20 minutes or so, and then wipe down all surfaces with a clean cloth or paper towels. Use a few tight patches and clean the cylinder chambers and barrel and you're done. Brush if needed. Nothing gets in the internals this way, but the cylinder and crane get a nice film of long lasting lube. Nothing additional requires any lube under normal use and circumstances. Ballistol is also OK to get on your skin unlike just about all the other cleaners and lubes. Your body, and your gun will appreciate it.
 
I would give you 10 likes if I could! That was very funny!!!Oh by the way what kind of grease do you suggest??:D:D:D
 
While I have removed the cylinder for better cleaning, the side plate on my gun stays on. That's partly cuz the manual says so and mostly cuz I don't know anything about whats in there.
Smith know more than me.
 
Kinda reminds me of pocket knife pivots, if I oil them I have to clean and re-oil it. If I use it dry then it I don't have too clean as often but it's not as smooth. Solution, use dry lube. Best of both worlds.

I have seen what 50 year old pocket knifes look/feel like when they are not lubed. They have fair to considerable wear in the pivots, knifes that have been kept clean and lubed look great at 30 years (oldest well taken care of knife that I have seen) and will probably out last three generations.

Take it for what it's worth, but I am going to take care of my stuff.

John
 
Kinda reminds me of pocket knife pivots, if I oil them I have to clean and re-oil it. If I use it dry then it I don't have too clean as often but it's not as smooth. Solution, use dry lube. Best of both worlds.

I have seen what 50 year old pocket knifes look/feel like when they are not lubed. They have fair to considerable wear in the pivots, knifes that have been kept clean and lubed look great at 30 years (oldest well taken care of knife that I have seen) and will probably out last three generations.

Take it for what it's worth, but I am going to take care of my stuff.

John

I can see the argument for oiling a revolver, and I can see the argument against it.

I can't see an argument against dry lube, however.
 
I can see the argument for oiling a revolver, and I can see the argument against it.

I can't see an argument against dry lube, however.
The only one I can think of is that applying it pretty much requires taking off the sideplate, doesn't it?

I'm not one of them, but I know SOME folks aren't comfortable doing that or are afraid of boogering up the screws, etc....
 
The only one I can think of is that applying it pretty much requires taking off the sideplate, doesn't it?

I'm not one of them, but I know SOME folks aren't comfortable doing that or are afraid of boogering up the screws, etc....

No need to remove the sideplate. Remove the grips, spray cleaner, compressed air to dry, re-spray cleaner, compressed air, spray dry lube, compressed air, re-install grips, done.
 
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