To Re-Load or Not???

[GMC man]

I have been thinking on how I am going to be testing the rounds with different charges.
I will fire groups of three thru the chronograph to record the speeds and record the avg for that charge.

Then groups of three at 50 yards and the 200 yard line which should give me a indication of the angle of drop and how tight the groups are at both zero's.

So I should be needing 9 rounds of each charge to test for the best performance charge of CFE223.

 

[oneyeopn]

I have been thinking on how I am going to be testing the rounds with different charges.
I will fire groups of three thru the chronograph to record the speeds and record the avg for that charge.

Then groups of three at 50 yards and the 200 yard line which should give me a indication of the angle of drop and how tight the groups are at both zero's.

So I should be needing 9 rounds of each charge to test for the best performance charge of CFE223.

Thank you, that cures my thinking process, I will do the same so that our information other than temp and altitude variables are the same. I will record the temp and I know what altitude I am shooting at so we will be golden.
p.s. that chart is an great even showing what the sight pic should look like!!!

 

[GMC man]

I have made a spreadsheet for what I am going to try. I will need a total of 102 rounds for this what do you guys think?

 

[oneyeopn]

I have made a spreadsheet for what I am going to try. I will need a total of 102 rounds for this what do you guys think?

I think I really like it....Now I am going to have to go into Excel and Build one, or I will just right it all down and turn it into a report when I get done. I had some polyps biopsied this morning and cant do anything for another day and a half. I have my targets filled out
I am going to use one target for each load in series. changing targets and writing down chronograph information and taking pictures should give me enough time between loads for my barrel to cool down to the right temp. I am going to shoot 7 shots @ 50 and then 3 shots @ 200 of each set I have loaded.

 

[GMC man]

thanks Grover and I hope everything turns out ok with the biopsy

 

[tight0023]

Hi everyone, the Hornady 55 grain FMJ BT bullets came in today, still waiting for the powder and primers. I wanted to adjust my seating die. I have attached a pic, the OAL is 2.235". Is that acceptable? The book says 2.25 with a plus .005" variance.the brass is measured at 1.749". I will have to measure some more of the brass. I think this was one of the shorter ones. Most of them came in around 1.752" to 1.755".
Thanks!

 

[oneyeopn]

Yes sir that is acceptable, I tend to load all of mine at 2.255 and my brass generally comes out of the trimmer at 1.75 +/-.002. I use the Lee Case Length gauge and they are built just a tiny bit long. The little pin end that goes down through the primer hole they make long so it can wear some.

 

[tight0023]

Yes sir that is acceptable, I tend to load all of mine at 2.255 and my brass generally comes out of the trimmer at 1.75 +/-.002. I use the Lee Case Length gauge and they are built just a tiny bit long. The little pin end that goes down through the primer hole they make long so it can wear some.

Thanks. I'm getting different data from two different manuals. The Hornady says to seat it at 2.200" and the Speer says 2.25". It looks like it does sit a bit to high on the canalure in the picture. I know there are a few of you here that shoot these Hornady FMJ BT bullets, what is your OAL and do you seat the bullet lower on the canalure?

Thanks.

 

[tight0023]

I have made a spreadsheet for what I am going to try. I will need a total of 102 rounds for this what do you guys think?

Very nice, it will be neat to see the results.

 

[oneyeopn]

No sir, I dont remember the thread but we had a discussion a while back about this particular subject. I quit worrying about the cannalure as long as the bullet would feed well and stayed around the 2.248 to 2.258 range. Using the Lee Factory Crimp die it will makes its own cannalure anyway. Seating the bullet a little deeper will cause the round to develop a little more pressure plus make the jump to the rifling further. The Lyman book says to load to 2.260 so I am beginning to think it is what works for the shooter/loader. It is funny how much variance there is between the component manufacturers in the same caliber. I find that Lee takes their data straight from the powder makers, Lyman doesnt. I tend to go with the Lyman because they dont really make bullets or powder so they dont seem to have a commercial dog in the fight. YMMV

 

[Prof_Fate]

Like any hobby the more you get 'into' it the less the 'cost' matters. I started with a lee loadmaster and have added a few things, a chronograph (highly recomend every handloader get one).
I avoided a dillon because of the initial cost - a 650 runs $750 locally and I'm sure there are things you can add to it.
A fellow shooter has a 1050 he bought for $950 in 2001. Toolheads are not cheap and that's his one complaint. But it's motorized, can pump out 1200 rounds an hour and all you do it keep the primers/brass/bullet feeders full. He spends 2 days in the winter reloading for the season...12-15k rounds. He's easily saved the price of his investemnt 10 times over.

The 1050 can also decrimp mil brass on the fly, trim rifle brass on the fly too he tells me. Yowsa! I know what I want when I grow up!

I advise against the lee progressives, but that's based on reviews, not first hand experience.

Loadmasters (and I suppose the pro 1000 as well) are good presses. There are a few 'user' issues - you must mount to a SOLID bench. You can't go too fast. You have to get it set up correctly. You will have to inspect your ammo and will have tipped primers at times.
However, you can be up and running for $350ish and make 300-400 rounds an hour with about a 3% reject rate (i've had higher and with my latest bench reinforcements I'm at 1% rejects due to primer issues).
Talking with dillon owners (in person, including a commercial reloader) they're not perfect either. No machine is. Each has it's quirks.
It's very difficult if not impossible to get a double charge with a progressive press.

How much do you shoot, and what do you shoot and how do you shoot? Benchrest rifle will require different things than IDPA.
I've started loading 30-06 on a single stage for a couple of autoloading garands for CMP matches. That's different than if i were loading for a modern bolt rifle for hunting.

When I shoot my rifle I may fire off 20 rounds, 60 max. Pistol...200 to 300 on a typical range trip.

With the garand greek surplus ammo is 50c round. Hornady from CMP is $240 for 200 rounds. I spent $305 and got 500 brass, 1000 bullets, 8lbs 4895 (enough to do 1000 rounds) and 1000 primers. for about $60 I got the dies and primer/sizing tools.
So I spent $360 and will have 1000 rounds, vs buying 1000 at $500-1200.
The savings on that alone could just about pay for a dillon 1050.

 

[oneyeopn]

Prof_Fate...Yep I know what I want when I grow up also...thank you...
I started reloading 6 years ago for my 3 8x57 Mauser customs with a Lee Classic Single Stage Press. Now I reload for all my rifles. My press is held onto my little folding table with wingnuts and I just took it off and am loading with a handpress and so far I really like it. Space is a premium in our little house. If I would perchance have to pull a bunch of bullets I would put my Classic back on my bench so I could use my Cam-Lock puller but so far I have been going strong with my Lee Hand press. But someday...either Turret or Progressive here I come, I will always save my handpress for portable usage and will have my Classic mounted somewhere on my permanent reloading bench. it is handy for pulling bullets or building test loads.

 

[Maddmax]

I think I really like it....Now I am going to have to go into Excel and Build one, or I will just right it all down and turn it into a report when I get done. I had some polyps biopsied this morning and cant do anything for another day and a half. I have my targets filled out
I am going to use one target for each load in series. changing targets and writing down chronograph information and taking pictures should give me enough time between loads for my barrel to cool down to the right temp. I am going to shoot 7 shots @ 50 and then 3 shots @ 200 of each set I have loaded.

Looks like a plan.

 

[Maddmax]

here is my little setup, i have been handloading 45 years. i know nothing of factory ammo......

Just put up a new house a couple years ago. I took over 1/3 of the basement right away for my Man Cave. Glad I did after seeing those photos,gave me some great ideas and still have room for my other hobby.

 

[hdbeast]

I have a small shed that I built back in 1988 to setup my reloading room and sort of a man cave, I've been using the Dillion RL550B since they first switch from the 450 and like this machine for .223, .38/.357, and 9mm. I use a RCBS for
30-30, and 30-06 and have the Mec 12 gauge progressive also, been reloading for over 30 years and enjoy the it very much.

 

[oneyeopn]

Ok, big mistake I started feeling better and decided to go out and run my test series, the day started out below 30 degrees but had nice sunshine and acted like it was going to warm up. It did warm up to 46 with a 20+mph wind, windchill in the 30's. But like the idiot I am I started testing.
I dont have the results in a report form yet, I did take pictures and chrono'd and basically did all my shooting at 50 yards in groups of 5. I started at 25.8 and in .2 gr increments went all the way to 26.8 and by the time I got to 26.8 I was shivering and miserable so I did the next best thing and went all the way to my max loaded bullets which were 28gr. My velocities started at around a 2575fps average with .75 groups working up to 26.8 my velocities went up to 2750fps with a 1" 5 shot group but if I throw out the flyer I had a .4 inch group with 2 shots in one large hole. I then jumped to 28gr I had 5 shots all touching in a .3 group with velocities averaging 2927fps. Loaded to the low side of the range the velocities varied a lot, I dont know if the powder is temperature sensitive but 26.8 has been my standard load. I am going to load up some more of the 28gr for when I get to go finish my testing but my preliminary conclusion is that the CFE223 powder prefers the hot side, it will shoot accurately with the lower charges but it shoots better and way more accurate at the higher charges, When I started seeing my shots go through the same hole or almost same hole I realized that it just likes to be pushed. I still have loads starting at 27gr to 27.8 that I havent shot and I will reload some 28's plus start back over at 26.8, but right now for myself 26.8 is the lowest I would load a 55gr bullet and I have a feeling it is going to end up a grain higher. Data and pictures tomorrow!!

 

[Maddmax]

no turrets, but i have had a couple. i had a rcbs piggyback progressive about 25 years ago when they first came out. to this day i don't think a doubble charge was dropped but this is the result my wifes new lady smith 38 i was loading 2.7 gr. of bullseye and kboom! so i do one at a time. my presses are rcbs 2a around 1959 vintage i have two of them and one rcbs a2 from 1968 and one rockchunker 1973

That's one of the reasons (when I can),I like using powders that fill or almost fill the case. Not a fail safe,but helps avoiding double loads. Not always possible with powdes like Bullseye and others. Started re-loading 40+ years ago and we had some moments,but no KA-BOOMs (thank God).
I have a 4 stage C&H,so one at a time was normal. Some of my friends had vintage single stage and would quit after priming and sizing. Set up for the seating and crimping then load all the empty cases with powder and set them aside all standing together. Then took a bright light and checked every case for powder depth before seating the bullet. You'd be amazed how many times you'd find a double load or an empty out of 4-500 rounds. Powder drop might be off a bit,I've seen people not use the "wacker-hammer" (on the side) and have a little extra powder the next round or not enough. Things do happen and when re-loading,things aren't going to be good if it isn't right.

 

[Maddmax]

Ok, big mistake I started feeling better and decided to go out and run my test series, the day started out below 30 degrees but had nice sunshine and acted like it was going to warm up. It did warm up to 46 with a 20+mph wind, windchill in the 30's. But like the idiot I am I started testing.!!

GET TO BED !!! We don't need the group catching the flu.
AHHHHHhhh....CCCHHHHHHHUuuuuu !!!
Get better soon buddy.

I did read something recently about different temp. extreems effecting powder loads. It can make a difference.

 

[JaPes]

I love this thread. I learn something new with each new contribution.

For the new folks joining in the thread, and skipping around, the simple answer to the thread title "To Reload or Not?" is:

YES! RELOAD!

At first, there is a daunting amount of information and skills to learn all at once. Go slow. Be meticulous. Ask questions. As you can see from this epic thread, there's more to reloading than just saving money.

 

[Maddmax]

I love this thread. I learn something new with each new contribution.

For the new folks joining in the thread, and skipping around, the simple answer to the thread title "To Reload or Not?" is:

YES! RELOAD!

At first, there is a daunting amount of information and skills to learn all at once. Go slow. Be meticulous. Ask questions. As you can see from this epic thread, there's more to reloading than just saving money.

Only thing better would be being closer so we could all actually shoot together,trade notes and have a couple cold ones around the campfire on the weekends now and then...