Top Break Advise

[zoisrus]

If you want to go big, There's a .38 Safety Hammerless army test on GB for $15k. Go get it.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

So what does the warranty situation mean? Absolutely nothing.

How can you say that? A company decides that they will not back up their product under certain situations and it means nothing?

And the "Pressure Spike ?" It is absolute nonsense. Why don't you prove it exists?

Because I don't have the sophisticated equipment required to measure and chart pressure curves in cartridges.

I try to be polite when I discuss this stuff with you, I don't understand why you have to be so hostile and disrespectful when you reply to me.

 

[whopist]

Original poster ask for recommendation on a top break "shooter".

To shoot hundreds or thousands of rounds you need a top break pistol that is durable. Problem, for this S&W Group, is S&W stopped making top breaks in the 1920s and my thoughts are a "shooter" needs to be newer.
I personally turned to top breaks manufactured after the 1960s for shooting. That limits the field to Uberti and Harrington & Richardson.

22 RF: I like H&R Sportsman 999
38 S&W: I'll choose H&R 926 or 925 (Might break my own rule get a S&W Perfected)
38 Special and larger: Uberti

What ever you do; remember this, if the barrel is not marked with a cartridge designation consider it Black Powder era.



Good Luck

 

[Skeetr57]

S&W sold the .38 Hammerless until 1940, long after black powder cartridges were discontinued, so they apparently had no problems with using smokeless powder in them. Since the frame and locking system is no different between the hammerless and the exposed hammer guns, I have no problem with shooting any S&W top break with modern factory ammo from the major manufacturers.